think my auto elec bill a bit lge for work done . Opinions please pp

[alternative Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close alternative]

Heres a pic when the car was about 2 weeks old, the cable to the fuses from the Pos terminal was only temporary as i needed a bus to join all the fuse terminals. There has now been the UHF, Spotties and rear work light added to the fuse board.

Dual battery wired in 50mm (0 gauge) cable.

[Brains Find all posts View Profile Close Brains]

To do the job properly and pull the dash and the rear area apart takes some time with the 150 if you don't want to damage any plastic panels or clips. I have done all my electrical work in my vehicle and have spent quite a few hours on it to get it completed. It not just a case of running wires but also including circuit breakers and fuses where required and installing these or finding a suitable spot to mount these. If that cost included all your wiring, circuit breakers, connectors and solenoid that's not too bad. To give you a rough estimate I spent a bit over $500 for my battery install of which $65 was for the battery. I used good quality cable and soldered, heat shrinked and convoluted tubing installed. I spent a few hours running 16mm2 cable under the vehicle for the rear Anderson routing it the most optimum way. So looking at that and knowing how much effort and time goes into a build up then I believe that the figure should be around the $800 - $1000. The thing you have to ask yourself is "Are you happy with the result" the amount you paid will soon become a memory when you have your fridge in the back and camper on the tow bar.

[croozza Avid PP Poster! Find all posts View Profile Close croozza]

It may take longer to do with a 150 series, but the original post was for a 90 series, they do not have as many electronics behind the dash, there are two massive looms that you can use to get through the firewall and are very easy to access, all other wiring is easy to poke through grommets and what not, I stand by my comments that it should only take the time I stated to do the work.

[Derb Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close Derb]

Hey Fellas. Who takes the conductors down the inside of a 90 anyway. Through the firewall grommets and down the aircon pipes on drivers side or fuel pipes on passengers side. With cable wrap and cable ties is a piece of cake. Guy who did my Prado wiring for the caravan including redarc battery relay, redarc brake controller, anderson plug/wiring right back to van battery did the whole job in 5 hours and charged $850-00 for the whole damn job. Did a good job and I shouted them a slab afterward for a great effort. If you want a Rolls Royce job - just give the man a blank cheque and he may also take 4 - 5 days to do it and I would expect it would look pretty damn impressive. Cheers, Derb.

[Richoson Avid PP Poster! Find all posts View Profile Close Richoson]

Folks

I have already had a problem with under car wiring, I had the power feed for the towbar routed inside the chassis rail to the "black box" at the rear that you have to use on the 150's and somehow managed to nick the cable with a rock/stick, it took 12 months but eventually with the mud/dust/water it had corroded the cable to the point of a break!!

I know sounds almost impossible but it did happen, took it back to Wynnum Towbars to get them to fix it, I was happy to pay, and they did it for free as they hadn't seen it before either. So all my other wiring then went through the firewall and down under the door sills at least it is has a lesser chance of damage. It really depends I suppose on how much offroad and long distance gravel driving you do.
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See ya on the tracks, Richo.

[MDSimpson Advanced Member Find all posts View Profile Close MDSimpson]

I was originally quoted just over $900 to install a dual battery system, with an add-on of an Anderson plug at the rear. Included battery and all, but $1000.00 for everything you had done, sounds reasonable.. I tend to DIY due to the costs. the help on this forum is free and very valuable...

[croozza Avid PP Poster! Find all posts View Profile Close croozza]

On top of the chassis rail is a good spot to run the cables, if you manage to damage them there, you probibly have written off your vehicle.

[Leethal Advanced Member Find all posts View Profile Close Leethal]

Sounds reasonable to me, and don't forget he was installing customer supplied gear.
I know the first thing I do (or used too when on the tools) is check that everything is there for the job, then test the supplied equipment to ensure it works .. why because if I fit and it doesn't work who pays to trouble shoot it and only to find out its never worked.
Add in prep and clean up after the job, invoicing etc and it all adds up.

Lee

[tassie tiger Advanced Member Find all posts View Profile Close tassie tiger]

On top of the chassis rail is a good spot to run the cables, if you manage to damage them there, you probibly have written off your vehicle.

Wiring goes inside IMO. There is no way to know what sharp edges, swarf or even weld spatter are inside or on top of the rails.

Sure it will work, but it may also rub through and then you have a free welder under your car.

Just my $1.28 worth of advice

[fishfinder Advanced Member Find all posts View Profile Close fishfinder]

Sounds steep I had brake controller , 12 volt socket , heavy duty trailer plug , antenna mast and uhf fitted all up $450.00 i supplied uhf and antenna mast

[Richoson Avid PP Poster! Find all posts View Profile Close Richoson]

At the end of the day the job should always be done properly so this minimises problems in the future and out on the tracks. One word comes to mind, professionalism.
The Roo.

Hear Hear!!