Best car polish to cut and polish vehicle

[LostDingo2 Find all posts View Profile Close LostDingo2]

BTW....a cut and polish is also known as a correction so you clean up all the fine scratches going different directions.

[GreenVX Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close GreenVX]

Pesonally I use a Waxattack system, work a treat. Its supported by Mothers brand, comes with two washable foam buffing pads as well as their California Gold car wash and a seperate high quality liquid wax. The car wash is great but I prefer to use the Turtle Wax Ice polish as it doesnt leave white residue in crevices. Uses a much lower speed palm polisher than professional plishing gear so its easy to use without damaging your precious clear coat.
Cut and polishing however is a different story, basically what your doing there is deliberately cutting into the factory clear coat in order to remove serious oxidisation, marks, etching or deeper scratches. Its a tricky thing to get just right and is really IMO a part of serious paint restoration.
If your paint doesnt need this kind of treatment i.e you have some light scraches from bushes or an errant belt buckle etc. Your better off using a good quality liquid polish, Mothers, Meguires, Turtle Wax, AutoGlym are all good ones and if you want to go a step further then get a clay bar as well, this helps remove stubborn particles that have slightly embedded themselves in the top coat i.e tiny pieces of sand, tree sap etc almost invisible to see but will come off with a clay bar.
All of the above can be done by hand if you have the time, however since the prado's body is a large surface area using an electric polisher will cut that time way down. Again the electric polisher is really for buffing up a good shine rather than cutting back damage to paint, it takes a fair amount of practice and a keen eye to use one with a cutting compound.
If your interested the Wax Attack systems are avaliable through Autobarn and such retailers as well as online. They cost about $160 from memory.
Also happy to supply any more advice one to one if you want to pm me, and im sure all the other boffins on here have a wealth of tips and info they can share with you.
Regards, GreenVX.

[iantz Avid PP Poster! Find all posts View Profile Close iantz]

What's the deal with the polish compounds that state 'do not use on metallic paint'? Given you are actually buffing the clear coat, how does this stuff affect the metallic paint, if at all?

[GreenVX Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close GreenVX]

What's the deal with the polish compounds that state 'do not use on metallic paint'? Given you are actually buffing the clear coat, how does this stuff affect the metallic paint, if at all?

Could you tell me what product specifically says ''do not use on metallic paint''?
There are many different polishing, washing, waxing, sealing and detailing products on the market it can get really confusing when all you want to do is wash your car.

Chances are its not a polishing compound but actually a cutting compound. So if you know the products actual name I can probably help you further.
Cheers, GreenVX.

[WOZCLEAN Member Find all posts View Profile Close WOZCLEAN]

Hey guys,

As a detailer with my own business, cut & polishing and hand polishing is a pain in the proverbial backside and with so many options of polishes, waxes and cutting compounds on the retail market and some work and a lot don't. Obviously for the best results you should get it done by a professional detailer, alot of panel beaters and crash repairers prefer not to do it unless they are doing other work on the vehicle. If you prefer to do your own work for the satisfaction and believe me it's very satisfying if you get the end result your looking for.

If you've got scratches to deal with you'll be going for a while to do them by hand and as Jeffers said it's very easy to burn the paint with a buff if you don't know what your doing.

If you want to have a crack at buffing it yourself then kudos to you. Just one thing to remember and that's keep the buff moving because as soon as the buff is stationary it heats up instantly and you will burn the paint that quick and then you either put up with it or re spray that panel and the most common place for it to happen is the bonnet. Also if you've got a scratch that you can catch a fingernail in the buff wont get it out and it will require painting.

Samo's got the right idea with the clay bar and the deep crystal, meguires are good products also stay away from the diy auto car wash with recycled water very bad for duco.

Hope this helps.

Matt.

[WOZCLEAN Member Find all posts View Profile Close WOZCLEAN]

Hey green vx you sound likea detailer.

[GreenVX Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close GreenVX]

Hey green vx you sound likea detailer.

Not a professional Woz just mostly trial and error with techniques and products. And a few good pointers from sites like pp.
Found the wax attack system through a mate that frequents a commodore modifying site
Plus living up here in the tropics un-protected paint jobs last 5-8years from new so blistered and sunburnt paint is a common thing. Not a good sight.

[reida1991 Member Find all posts View Profile Close reida1991]

Hey guys,

To steer away from the mainstream brands, my cousin co-owns a panel shop in Holbrook, NSW and highly recommends Juice polishes. He does some impressive restorations and repair work, and his final results are excellent. I will be getting some of this for my next 'one-in-a-million obligation free weekend'. You'll need to source this through a panel shop though, not autobarn etc.

http://www.juicepolishes.com.au/

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vCAnP8wlzUk

Cheers,

Reidy

[humphrey Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close humphrey]

"I wouldn't recommend a buffer with a true cut polish if you have not used before. Does not take much to make a fatal mistake!

speak to the guys @ http://www.carcareproducts.com.au and they will give you honest advice. They sell buffers, Menzerna cut polishes etc if you do go down that path.

Once you do get it to the shine you want I highly recommend putting a good sealer on. I use DuraGloss and reapply twice per year. Because I like to polish as well I also use DoDo juice wax but it's not necessary over a good sealer. Tell them Paul sent you...they know my Prado :-)"





HOORAY.....Finally someone who recommends products other than those found at autobarn. I buy from www.waxit.com.au as they're close by, but like carcareproducts you'll get the good info on what to use..

Hand polishing a Prado is a mugs game. Far to big and in all honesty only results in tennis elbow.

A rotory buffer can end in tears (and bare metal, but not in that order) for those without expirience. A random orbital polisher is the way to go but expect to pay $300 upwards. They're vertually fool proof. Those $50 supercrap ones dont have the torque to do the job. You get what you pay for.

If your auto drops its guts you dont go down to autobarn and ask the young bloke behind the counter how to rebuild it. So if you want a good finish on your paint, seek out a decent supplier or detailer, it's their business to know what works.

[Alejandro8100 Lurker Find all posts View Profile Close Alejandro8100]

I mostly use a sealant then a Wax to get my best results.In my view,the most important part of keeping your car scratch free is how you wash it.I always preferred polish by hand.The result is so satisfying.

[slackdog Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close slackdog]

After a recent hi-counrty trip ended up with heaps of fine scratches in the clearcoat of my silver 120 ..Purshased some mequires scratch x and was so impressed with it , polished the other two vehicle that traveled with us .....Great stuff..Then a final polish with muguires deep crystal..
Back to brand new !!!!!
Regards--Rob