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  • Drilling into rig frame

    Hi how r u all.
    Ive been told by a 4 wd shop that they can add 2 recovery/ tow points at the rear of my gxl 150, but it would involve drilling holes into the frame.
    Im new to the scene and was wondering is it safe for them to be doing this, is it something they do often and are experienced in this area ?
    Will it affect the frame integrity, what rthe implications?
    Im getting two at the front as well, its just ive spent so much money building my rig that i cant afford rear tyre carrier bumper.
    The points im talking about are the big yellow chunky things.
    Thanks id love some advice and input.
    Peace

  • #2
    Drilling is a bad idea and probably illegal. There are 2 perfectly usable nuts on each side of the chassis to mount recovery points.

    Comment


    • #3
      If the 150 is anything like the 120 then recovery points without drilling is easy!

      Cheers Andrew
      [COLOR="#FF0000"]So Long and Thanks for all the Fish![/COLOR]

      [url=http://www.4wdadventurers.com/showthread.php?3840-AJ-s-120-Prado]MY PRADO AND DIY CAMPER TRAILER[/url]

      [url=http://www.4wdadventurers.com/showthread.php?3975-AJ-s-79-series-Cruiser-Ute]MY HZJ79 Landcrusier[/url]


      [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

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      • #4
        I don't know anyone who has had to drill a rear recovery point. The preferred rear recovery point is the towbar hitch with suitable recovery block. Have you considered that?

        LFaR.
        [size=1][color=#770000]29Feb12:[/color][color=#777700]12GXLTD Auto, ARB Deluxe Winch bar, WARN 9.5xp Winch, IPF 900XS, Tow, Safari snorkel, Front + Rear Recovery points, ARB OME NC Sports, ATZ-4Rib[/color][color=grey], Silver[/color]. [color=orange][b]MaxTrax[/b][/color], [color=maroon]ScanGuage II[/color], [color=blue]ARB CKMA12[/color], [color=deeppink]UHF: GME TX3440 AE4018K1 UNH047SX[/color], [color=darkgreen]Bushranger Air Jack[/color], [color=green]Staun + ARB Deflators[/color], [color=brown]WindCheetah Roof Rack[/color], [color=green]Foxwing[/color], [color=red]Super Charge MRV70, Redarc BCDC1220[/color], [color=darkblue]ARB 60L fridge[/color], [color=blue]MSA Fridge Dropdown slide[/color], [color=darkyellow]DRIFTA Drawers[/color], [color=gold]TJM Bash Plates[/color], [color=brown]TG150[/color].[/size]

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        • #5
          Thanks for the advice, the guy that suggested drilling holes for recovery points at rear is putting on my brown davis underbody protection, should i b worried.
          Ill invest in a tow bar back bar wheel arm carrier

          Comment


          • #6
            Even at the rear of chassis are there 2 nuts on each side to accomodate recovery points

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            • #7
              Originally posted by Paul1972 View Post
              Thanks for the advice, the guy that suggested drilling holes for recovery points at rear is putting on my brown davis underbody protection, should i b worried.
              Ill invest in a tow bar back bar wheel arm carrier
              The a brown Davis will fit onto existing mounting points. They are a reasonably quick to fit
              Stephen Bloomer
              I did have - 2010 GXL D4D Auto, ARB bullbar, rails, sliders, winch, 40mm lift, Brown Davis bash plates and long range tank

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by Paul1972 View Post
                Even at the rear of chassis are there 2 nuts on each side to accomodate recovery points
                Yes there is.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by LiveFreeAndRoam View Post
                  I don't know anyone who has had to drill a rear recovery point. The preferred rear recovery point is the towbar hitch with suitable recovery block. Have you considered that?

                  LFaR.
                  Acceptable yes, preffered? well thats a matter for debate, not my "preffered" method.

                  Cheers Andrew
                  [COLOR="#FF0000"]So Long and Thanks for all the Fish![/COLOR]

                  [url=http://www.4wdadventurers.com/showthread.php?3840-AJ-s-120-Prado]MY PRADO AND DIY CAMPER TRAILER[/url]

                  [url=http://www.4wdadventurers.com/showthread.php?3975-AJ-s-79-series-Cruiser-Ute]MY HZJ79 Landcrusier[/url]


                  [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    It may be that your fitter is not familiar with the Prado and is not aware that the nuts are in the chassis to accept the recovery points.

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                    • #11
                      I think your right hes not familiar with prado 150, because he wanted to see it but i didnt have it with me.
                      So its a definite that i can install two recovery points in the front and a set atthe rear?
                      Because i dont wantto pay 4 grand for a back bar with a tow ball that i would only use as a recovery point, i could use that money to cross australia.
                      Thanks for everyones input.

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                      • #12
                        Does anyone on here have the recovery point set on the rear on their prado 150

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                        • #13
                          Where the factory tie down point is is where the 2 nuts are. Remove the factory tie down point and install the hook type recovery point. The driver's side might be a bit more difficult.

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                          • #14
                            I know it's a 120 not a 150 but here are a couple of pictures of mine:

                            Left side


                            Right side - note offset to avoid the exhaust


                            I know AJ120 prefers hooks but I went for shackles. If you go for hooks then the left side bolts directly to the chassis but you need a small plate to move the right side point away from the exhaust to fit a hook (similar to my right side but with two extra holes).
                            Trekrider
                            Banned
                            Last edited by Trekrider; 22-10-2012, 09:28 AM.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Originally posted by Talktheroo View Post
                              I do use the hitch reciever and bow shackle method. You can't put hooks on there once you have the tow bar installed. Well, you could, but what a pain in the A to fit when you can just use a hitch. There's nothing like a thread with photos anyway.
                              John (##########).
                              Pics below are obviously for a 120. I like this method over the tow hitch for many reasons.

                              1. They are always there, you never accidently forget them.
                              2. 2 points shares the load.
                              3. A towbar for a Prado is rated to 2500-3000kg, then you attach a 8000kg or more snatch strap, thats why it is not recomended.
                              4. This method satisfies all the requirement for recovery hooks set out in the FWDSA training manual.
                              5. They are "Rated" recovery hooks.



                              I am not saying don't use a hitch reciever, but its not the "best" option IMO.

                              Cheers Andrew
                              [COLOR="#FF0000"]So Long and Thanks for all the Fish![/COLOR]

                              [url=http://www.4wdadventurers.com/showthread.php?3840-AJ-s-120-Prado]MY PRADO AND DIY CAMPER TRAILER[/url]

                              [url=http://www.4wdadventurers.com/showthread.php?3975-AJ-s-79-series-Cruiser-Ute]MY HZJ79 Landcrusier[/url]


                              [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

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