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Jacks: HiLift vs Bottle vs Exhaust

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  • Jacks: HiLift vs Bottle vs Exhaust

    Hi chaps...
    Got a flat today and tackled the situation with my trusty hilift jack.

    Con: uneven ground...lost it twice! Used the hitch reciever...third time lucky.
    Pro: dont even know?

    If I do not modify my truck with hilift points in the form of rear protector bar or rock sliders etc..then the current status quo is the prado rocks slightly from centre etc....

    Did I do something terribly wrong or do I need to adjust my technique to avoid it happening again lift from the rear?

    I watched the last gettogether at salt creek lift a truck up in seconds and change a tyre all with an exaust jack...rather impressive indeed.

    Please could all and sundry express your humble opinions on what you prefer and why?
    I have a small bottle jack and a bigh lift but like the concept and ease of the exhaust bag.....I may be purchasing one of there in the next couple of days.

    All comments very welcome and maybe useful to other pp's not forward enough to post obvious questions etc....
    Regards

  • #2
    4T hydraulic bottle jack and some blocks of wood, much safer and more controlled lifting than a hi-lift or exhaust jack
    [url=http://www.myswag.org/index.php?topic=12264]My Prado[/url]

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    • #3
      The OEM bottle jack should still be able to lift the rear via the diff housing and the fronts via the lower control arm. You just need to make sure that the Prado is on even ground and chocked up.

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      • #4
        FWIW I went on an advanced recovery course..guy was as straight as a dye...as I've no steel aftermarket bar/slider/sidesteps gear ..rules out completely the Hi- lift ,he also really shunned/poo pooed the exhaust jack. He went thru it all but the exhaust blow back pressure is extremely considerable. One could possibly get away with the 1KZ doing one tyre but certainly not the D4D! The old 70's diesels were fine as there technology is very simple and could cope with the back pressure but not on any modern engine. 4T bottle on wood is fine for most of our needs! He was very experienced and I don't doubt what he said.
        [SIZE=1]03 TD 120 Grande, L&R weathershields, f&r deflectors, Sov bar Amts rad b.pl, TJM front B.P, Uniden UH7760NB Kaymar LED worklight, ARB 47l, lifestyle rack & Milford C. Barrier, 9500llb Superwinch, IPF 900SR spots, T. Dog 40mm adj shocks/struts, coils, airbagman OA6011 airbags, 2.75" Beaudesert exhaust, 300w inverter, 1L Catch can,outback rec points, R.R awning, dual batteries redarc SBI12 Cooper LT A/T3's 265/65, Safari snorkel, Hilux jets, Brains TG150, Leigh's booster diode [/SIZE]

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        • #5
          I have all 3 and by far the 4T bottle jack with blocks is the way to go.
          Highlift to unsteady ( dent in door to prove that )
          Exhaust jack a pain in the ass to use by yourself, Hoses have to be laid out very straight ,(not enough flow from exhaust to blow the kinks out) and they dont tend to stay on the exhaust very good so you need someone to hold it there for you.
          Or i am doing it all wrong

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          • #6
            Brilliant....where to stow a 4t bottle jack hmmmmm is it big? Hahahahh thanks guys

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            • #7
              Anyone got a preference of jack and where best to get it?

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              • #8
                I have used a high-lift jack, however found it too unstable & unsafe to use, would not recommend it.
                The standard bottle jack is too short for a vehicle with lift...
                Therefore, I use a trolley jack. Easy to use, if on sand, etc., take a base plate.
                Sold the Prado. Now FJ Cruiser

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by Jon View Post
                  I have used a high-lift jack, however found it too unstable & unsafe to use, would not recommend it.
                  The standard bottle jack is too short for a vehicle with lift...
                  Therefore, I use a trolley jack. Easy to use, if on sand, etc., take a base plate.
                  Where do you stow that?

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                  • #10
                    Bugger me x2 where does it go? Roof? I take it you dont have drawrrs etc?
                    Bloody good idea though!

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                    • #11
                      Standard jack with a block of wood, it's actually a sleeper off cut. Haven't had any issue with it.

                      In action, not the best pic, but here is where I used the standard jack just out of mt dare!




                      Agree with HIghlift, they have their applications and certainly have been in recoveries when they were worth their weight in gold, I don't really like using them just feels too unsafe IMO. No doubt if you use it often enough you would develop the skill.

                      Exhaust jack, used to have one but found the kinks to be a PITA to deal with.

                      At home trolley jack is king.

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                      • #12
                        All bad news about my flat tyre...the fitter showed me all the ground off rubber from the inside wall....apparently id been driving on a flat more than I thought..its now a semi spare but says it should not be trusted .....bugger! Down to 5 wheels.

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                        • #13
                          I am a 4wd driving instructor and will show my students how to safely use all of the aforementioned equipment. The factory jack is perfectly suited to changing tyres as long as you have a stable platform for it, ie bitumen or wood/steel base plate. Exhaust jacks are not easy to use but can be very effective in sand. They require a team approach to use: one on the throttle, one on the exhaust and one on the bag. The hi-lift jack is so named because that is what it is for - lifting the car. Yes they can be unstable but this can be helpful for lifting and pushing a car over an obstacle. Hi lift jacks should not be used to change tyres. You have to lift the body really high before the suspension starts to move. As you jack the car up the wheel will remain on the ground until the shocks have fully extended and then the wheel will lift. I have seen a hi-lift jack pierce the back door on a Nissan Patrol after it gave way causing the car to roll forward and, because the replacement wheel was on properly, the rim bent and broke several wheel studs and also damaged the lug holes in the alloy rim. All up about $5000 worth of damage. The hi-lift is handy for lifting the suspension and body on a bogged vehicle allowing you to pack material under the wheels and aid in your self-recovery. Hi-lifts can also be used to winch a vehicle if you know how only it is very slow. The car needs to have suitable receptacles for the hi lift tongue to slip into. I've seen guys searching endlessly only to find they cannot fit the jack into a suitable jacking point. On some cars the jack will slip into the towbar receiver however you may need to remove the spare tyre from the back door. You can also get an attachment hook which will allow you to use the jack to lift the wheel directly. People who use the hi lift to change flat tyres are generally too lazy to get the factory jack out and don't want to get dirty by having to crawl under the car to locate the jack. Before using the hi lift jack the wheels should be properly chocked and hand brake applied to prevent the vehicle from rolling unless that is your desired action (see comment above regarding getting over an obstacle). Another issue with the high lift is that most are stored outside the vehicle and get clogged up with dirt. This prevents the popping action of the mechanism and you'll find the jack won't go up or down. Keep it in a bag and keep some CRC/Wd40 type spray handy to lube the mechanism. Trolley jacks are ok but they do take up valuable space in the car and can be reasonably heavy. They won't roll through sand or mud either. I personally don't carry a high lift jack. I have 2 in the shed - one that I found out on a dirt road east of Derby.
                          Dave
                          Views expressed are mine alone and are not intended to compromise the integrity of my employer nor offend those who may read such views.
                          Bugger Bali, get out and see Australia before we sell it all to China.

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                          • #14
                            You can get those rubber quick grips (quick fists) to mount the high lift to the side of your roof rack for around $20 - 25. Mounting brackets that attach to the spare wheel are also available but does put some extra unwanted weight on your back door.
                            Dave
                            Views expressed are mine alone and are not intended to compromise the integrity of my employer nor offend those who may read such views.
                            Bugger Bali, get out and see Australia before we sell it all to China.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              @bushbasher
                              Well done mate ive experienced most things you have mentioned including being lazy....

                              Im leaning towards a bigger bottle jack...anyone care to tell me what brand and where I can get it?

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