CV boots on 95 Prado

[Bickies Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close Bickies]

Hi to all,

I have a 2002 95 series Prado and have a damaged outer CV boot. To remove the shaft from the vehicle you have to remove a large nut. I need to know the size of this nut to purchase one. Can anyone help me out with this? Much appreciation.

Regards Paul

[raydes Advanced Member Find all posts View Profile Close raydes]

35/36mm

[Anth120playdo Banned Find all posts View Profile Close Anth120playdo]

35mm.

If your replacing the boot, I'd advise use genuine, although costly, the outers are pretty tough.
You will need moly grease.
But if it has been contaminated, it might not be worth it.

Or you can try the cheaper option Repco shaft , 5 year 100,000k warranty.

Have fun!

[Bickies Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close Bickies]

35mm.

If your replacing the boot, I'd advise use genuine, although costly, the outers are pretty tough.
You will need moly grease.
But if it has been contaminated, it might not be worth it.

Or you can try the cheaper option Repco shaft , 5 year 100,000k warranty.

Have fun!

Thanks for the heads up guys. I might go for the Repco option. Thanks again.

[glen_ep Addicted PP Member Find all posts View Profile Close glen_ep]

Many people say 35mm, but mine are definitely 32mm.

Forget Repco ones if you go offroad. It's attractive due to warranty but based on my experience you'll definitely need to make a claim! I can't remember exactly how many failed for me, somewhere between 4-6? They lasted anything from 1-6 months. I grew tired of that and switched to genuine rebuilt ones - no problems since then.

Replacing boots may seems like a stupid amount of effort compared to buying brand new ones at $200, but if it means keeping genuine shafts, then I definitely recommend doing it!

[Bickies Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close Bickies]

Many people say 35mm, but mine are definitely 32mm.

Forget Repco ones if you go offroad. It's attractive due to warranty but based on my experience you'll definitely need to make a claim! I can't remember exactly how many failed for me, somewhere between 4-6? They lasted anything from 1-6 months. I grew tired of that and switched to genuine rebuilt ones - no problems since then.

Replacing boots may seems like a stupid amount of effort compared to buying brand new ones at $200, but if it means keeping genuine shafts, then I definitely recommend doing it!

Too late Glen, Ive already purchased the repco shaft. Can you take the original shaft to someone to recondition??
My new problem is I cant get the bloody front diff drain plug out. I have tried assisting with breaker bar after giving the plug a few wacks with cold chisel and hammer and now its threatening to bur out the female end of the plug.What can you suggest before disaster happens???

[1macka75 Lurker Find all posts View Profile Close 1macka75]

What are you using to remove the drain plug? You should not need to go with a cold chisel. Have you ever changed the front diff oil? I did my front boots a few weeks ago. I will look for a post I used, which made it easy for me.

[raydes Advanced Member Find all posts View Profile Close raydes]

Nothing wrong with the Repco shafts. I have them on my Prado for five years now ,no problems. If you are breaking them you need to change your driving style ??? . They usually break because the front wheels are in the air spinning then come down on the ground and stop/bang. The wheels should not be spinning in the air.

[glen_ep Addicted PP Member Find all posts View Profile Close glen_ep]

Nothing wrong with the Repco shafts. I have them on my Prado for five years now ,no problems. If you are breaking them you need to change your driving style ??? . They usually break because the front wheels are in the air spinning then come down on the ground and stop/bang. The wheels should not be spinning in the air.

Load of crap. Should I stick to well graded fire trails? From my documented experience, genuine outlast Repco's by a factor of 1:5. For example, at 0:25 in this video my a repco shaft failed at the inner joint, passenger side, with no excessive articulation: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=px1d_aIdYR8 Do you think the driving style seen in the video needs to be changed? No. More likely you haven't pushed your rig far enough - OR - 5 years ago the Repco shafts were pretty decent (doubt it).

PS - Wheels in the air, coming down hard usually breaks spider gears in a diff. CV's are more often broken by harsh articulation and turning, or lockers and excessive grip.

[glen_ep Addicted PP Member Find all posts View Profile Close glen_ep]

Too late Glen, Ive already purchased the repco shaft. Can you take the original shaft to someone to recondition??
My new problem is I cant get the bloody front diff drain plug out. I have tried assisting with breaker bar after giving the plug a few wacks with cold chisel and hammer and now its threatening to bur out the female end of the plug.What can you suggest before disaster happens???

Probably hard to find someone to rebuild your CV but it's easy to find a shops/suppliers who will swap yours for another rebuilt one at a charge of around 170-220. Just make sure you're getting a rebuilt genuine, not a rebuilt cheapy. Alternatively, it's a spare and you have time, so you could learn how to rebuild it yourself.

With diffs and transfer/transmission boxes, always remove the filler plug first. Otherwise, if you start with the drain, then drain the oil, then have these difficulties removing the filler plug - you can get stuck with no oil, no way to refill it, and no way to drive for help. Starting with the filler means you can cancel the job if need be.

With these plugs it's essential to start it correctly. If you've never removed it yourself, then use penetrating fluid the day before and hammer it a bit (to shock the threads loose). Later repeat, add more penetrating fluid and hammer again. Then using the right tool, I've found a well positioned and sudden jerk motion works better than slowly building up pressure. Finally, when finishing use new washers, preferably genuine.

As for removing the troublesome plug, I don't have much experience removing damaged plugs so hopefully others can advise. If it's already slipping then stop trying the same method - you may need more penetrating fluid, or change tools, it might require heating or even welding a hex tool to the plug. Perhaps buying a hex tool of the NEXT size up and grind it down to make an extremely tight fit (one which requires hammering into place). Either way, you'll need to order a new plug and washers.

[raydes Advanced Member Find all posts View Profile Close raydes]

Hi Glen-ep I watched the video, very good just how I would do it, slow and steady. As you say I must have got some good ones

[glen_ep Addicted PP Member Find all posts View Profile Close glen_ep]

Yeah it's entirely possible they've changed manufacturer/suppliers a couple times since then. Even the last 1 or 2 CV's I had from them looked different from the ones I received only months prior.

[Ron.H. Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close Ron.H.]

I have had 2 Repco shafts both didn't even last 12 months before breaking and the boots were torn so have bought original shaft with boot from the wreckers worked out cheaper than paying mechanic to keep replacing Repco ones and it is lasting so would never by a repco one again.
Ron.H.