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  • Rust Proofing new Prado advice

    Hi there!

    New here. We've just purchased a new Prado which we pick up Monday. Excited to have a 4WD again. Just wondering what you all use and can recommend for rust proofing? I'm wondering if these new electronic systems are good, or is an underbody spray is better, or combination of both?

    We don't plan on taking it on the beach for a long time... but it will be used to put the boat in at the boat ramp and a few lighter off-road trips.

  • #2
    My advice is don't waste your money . Don't drive it through salt water . It's a toyota not a ford .
    03 grande v6 , with added stuff that makes it go places . RTFM people !
    founding member of the " you don't need all that crap on a prado association "
    "you only use 15% of your brain " Einstein . " so why not burn off the other 85% " Cheech & Chong .
    petrol , petrol ,petrol , you know it makes sense ! im kavpetrolbitch

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    • #3
      Thanks Kav for your reply.

      After doing some extensive reading today i'm seeing a general trends towards people either a) putting the electronic rust proofing on and finding no real difference or b) using traditional methods like lanolin etc.

      What type of other rust proofing would you recommend or none at all just a good washing down?

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      • #4
        I have the ERPS system on mine. Does it work, it's hard to tell. The best rust prevention is physical, that being a barrier and washing. The barrier can be as simple as a bit of lanolin and a run down a dirt road just before the beach. The most important thing is a really good wash when you get home. High pressure, low pressure, the soaker hose, the whole lot. The best wash I have found though is multiple freshwater creek crossings. The electronic systems definatly do have scientific merit, and definatly work in theory though, but they will all also tell you a good wash is hard to beat
        [LEFT]Silver 150 Facelift
        TJM Bullbar, Lightforce Genisis Spots, Dual Battery System with bits from everyone, Powerful 4x4 slider/steps, Kaymar rear bar, "Genuine" Roof Racks, MSA Seatcovers, Dashmat, Tint, LED Interior Globes, Bridgestone D697s [/LEFT]

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        • #5
          I have always worked on the theory that having the negative terminal of the battery earthed to the chassis provides all the cathodic protection that I need.
          x2 don't waste your money

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          • #6
            I bought mine with it; the electrical one. The warranty is not transferrable. Also, it does not warrant against a break in the paint. So ... if you chip your vehicle, and it rusts there, the anti-rust warranty is void. So really, its not a warranty IMO. Perhaps for the bare steel chassis parts ... but those are not bare steel. They have a coating ... and if that's broken, the warranty is voided. Useless therefore but the dealer feels good about it because he gets a commission!

            The Lanoline ones sound very good though.

            And check those under car wash things ... Bunnings sell a German brand of compression cleaning things, and an option is a thing on wheels that connects to the pump (a gerber I think but there are other brands) and you push the trolley under your car (it has a long handle) and it sprays upwards into the underside of your car. I'd buy one of those first, and the Lanoline treatment second. If you doing beaches, or launching a boat, you should buy both IMO.

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            • #7
              I have an ERPS unit on my old 90 series, put it on when the vehicle was new 12 years ago. It has done a fair amount of work on Bribie and Noosa/Rainbow Beach, also lots of bush and desert driving. The old girl has done 370k and has no rust on it. I was always particular about hosing down (and under) when I returned home; so as mentioned by Aussie Andy above it is hard to know whether the vehicle was protected by the ERPS or the washing at home.

              Having said all that I thought it was worthwhile putting one on my new girl - again only time will tell...
              Cheers,
              Baz.

              Comment


              • #8
                Compared to the good old days where you would drown your car in fish oil and be followed around by flocks of seagulls, I don't think there is a great deal you can do To modern vehicles unless you went electronic.
                The only physical thing I have done with mine is an extra spray layer up under the wheel arches and to cover the whole atea better, just double the thickness to stop the stone chips.
                Keep everything that is meant to be greased/oiled as it should be.
                The biggest one is getting wet sand and wet clay/saltmarsh and mud from off your chassis as soon as you can so that it can dry out properly and not hold moisture = rust starting.
                When I say a clean, put on a mask and the wetsuit(I'm not kidding) and get right up under there and hose everything out really good. I've hosed down before thinking I had done a half decent job mid way on a trip only to get home after and hose out another half bucket of crap from the chassis itself, top of heat protector panels and out of fuel tank guards.
                I've also started to do an undercarriage clean whenever I drop the oil or squirt some grease. Can of spray silicon grease, spray everything under the car and wipe down with a rag. Couldn't believe how easily the car cleaned up last time on the beach launching the boat. Wet salty sand was beading off like rain x.
                Cheers
                mgreen18
                Junior Member
                Last edited by mgreen18; 04-01-2015, 09:09 PM.

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