I think the biggest questions are:
- where do you want to mount the radio?
- where do you want to mount the antenna?
- where you planning to pull power from (primary, secondary batter)
-- do you want an always on setup? this works best to have the radio on whilst the car is off.
I have mine:
- Radio (GME TX3500S) is mounted next to the auto-shifter (sits neat in between the seat, my leg and the dash/console pillar)
- Antenna is mounted on BullBar (passenger side)
My install:
coax runs from bullbar, through front grill, underneath the plastic cover/trim (plastic cover on-top of radiator/coax cable-tied to OEM wiring loom), to the other side of the engine bay (dual battery area) - if you do not have a dual battery yet - be sure to run the coax with enough slack and consideration for where those wires will go later.
from here on, snug against the engine bay (driver side), underneath the air-box intake pipe. a few loops before it enters the cab (for in case I need the 20cm one day) - then into the cab...
- lookout not to damage the OEM wire loom when you make a cut to get wires through. that massive grommet is about 2/3mm thick.
then nicely positioned above the crows nest of things in the foot-well/under dash.
- tucked in under the left floor foot trim (between carpet and radio/console - approx 15cm from ground)
- since my radio is mounted there, it is perfect.
- full coax length is protected with cord split-tube / sun & heat protection ( I buy a 10m rolls at JayCar )
(my power follows same route - but from dual battery)
- pulled in a 20amp power cable into car with a couple of fuses for the next thing that needs power - saves another wire to be pulled through later.
I can also suggest - there are a couple of discussions already on this forum with various radio types and mounting suggestions. Most also cover the wiring and routing.
- it all depends on the type of radio you have
Just a couple of extra thoughts...
use best quality RG58 cable you can get
keep the coax as short as practical
use good quality connectors (soldered and compression nut on braid for the PL259)
think about earthing straps on back door and bonnet at least.
an independent groundplane type antenna with spring is best.
get a ferrite snap-on to go on your dc fridge power lead. (close to the fridge end)
Steve
2007 Prado 120 D4D 6 spd, 25/40cm lift ARB OME, snorkel, Brown Davis sump guard, Pirelli ATRs (Road), Cooper ST maxx (off Road), ARB lockers & compressor, Overkill rock sliders, dual D27F Optima Yelowtops, Ctek D250, 130A alternator, breathers, GME TX3440, Yaesu FT-857D, Buscomm Highlander 8 multitap or ATAS antenna, ARB Fridge. (VK2FSVN)
get a ferrite snap-on to go on your dc fridge power lead. (close to the fridge end)
Would like to know why? For usage outside the car?
OR is this for when you have not hard wired the radio to dc power.
- depending on where you plug that in (expecting a basic acc socket from oem wiring) when the fridge is running drawing 7-10amp, and you transmit (4-6 amp) - the amount of amps that can be provided through the car wiring will be insufficient - and thus affect transmit power and range.
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