Auto Transmission Specialist - Newcastle NSW

[willykj Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close willykj]

Have a 2007 120 Auto with 190K. Auto fluid changed by Dealer at 100K and as I do a fair bit of caravan towing they suggest doing it again but have suggested having it done by a specialist so can by flushed properly. Can anyone suggest a reliable auto trans service place in Newcastle area. Thanks

[chrisgrind Spammer Find all posts View Profile Close chrisgrind]

I went through this last week. There seems to be three.

1. ATS at lambton, who I was going to go (but didn't after reading google reviews). Price was $430 or $530 depending on whether you had a cross member that had to be removed.
2. someone at islington- didn't ring them
3. Lake Macquarie Automatic Transmission Service (Toronto). Price was $440 (inc gst) for flush and service.

I used the one at Toronto. The reviews on google were much better and a friends dad has been using them for a while for his auto (but thats the total knowledge I have from him).


I asked them their process and they said they drop pan, replace filter (they said you can clean them, but you have to take them off to torque the valve body, so they replace) flush and replace pan and set oil level at x temperature (to be fair...I may be getting order wrong...point being: They did what I am aware of is required). He told me the fluid he used (http://prostream.com.au/product/auto...mission-fluid/) and said it was compatible with any suitable ATF if I had to do anything with it and it wasn't them doing it.

They also painted the pan, commented that it was the original gasket. They suggested I replace my lower ball joints as he said he's seen plenty of the stock ones snap after time. Was happy to recommend a brand (road safe) if I was to do it myself. They also had a transmission rebuild room (which probably isn't much, but suggests to me they want to keep the door close to keep dust etc away from bits...shows a bit more attention to detail).

He also stayed back 30 minutes or so after 5pm to discuss items with me, including towing suggetions (my first auto - and towed 2.5t yesterday), tyres and hoists as I want to get one in the near future.

So short story - I'm happy with the work they did, which I have only said of two other mechanics in my life (both are now retired).

Wherever you go, note that if you ask for a 'flush' they may not do a 'service' you want to ask for both (Apparently the terminology they refer to is a flush is just attach pump and replace fluid. Service is drop pan etc) Service is $350 (i think that was ex gst) which is what you'd get every 40,000kms or whatever once you know the condition of fluid is good.

PS, mine is 2007 as well.

[willykj Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close willykj]

Thank you for the comprehensive reply. Greatly appreciated

[chrisgrind Spammer Find all posts View Profile Close chrisgrind]

please report back with who you use and if you were happy with them

[Razorback81 Advanced Member Find all posts View Profile Close Razorback81]

i just did mine myself
i just did a fluid change (12L used) plus i was a bit short so had to get a 4th can of fluid

i brought a clear container from bunnings or stratco that held 5L and was marked in 100mil increments
3 x 4L containers from Toyota (the genuine fluid)
a tom thumb 1L pump
3m of 10mm clear hose
on the RH side of the trans is a 24mm nut (this is the fill point)
underneath there are 2 plugs, 1 uses a 14mm socket/spanner (this is the drain plug) the other takes a 5mm Allen key ( this is the fluid level plug)

i did mine while fitting an oil cooler

so first thing i did after running the car to get the temps up
drain the pan (14mm plug in pan) if you can lift the front of the car you will get most of it out of the pan) i had mine on the hoyst and got 3.25L out, lifted the front and ended up with 4L in my container
remove the 24mm fill plug and refill the trans with 4L (or what ever you got out of yours)
remove one of the cooler lines under the front near the radiator fit the clear hose to the steel line and drop it in the 5L container and point the hose towards the container
turn the car on and start it, catch the fluid coming out til you have 3L and switch it off
refill the trans with 3L
repeat start car catch another 3L switch off & refill with another 3L
now this is where i when slightly wrong
i went another 3L when i probably needed to only go 2L till it came out red
so you need to know how much fluid you have left , if you have 3L left take out 2L from the trans
then you will have 3L left to top it up

this is the last top up if you took out 2L put 2L back in , reconnect your cooler lines then start the car !!
now you can take out the fluid level plug (5mm Allen key) don't take it out before you start the car as the fluid is higher than the plug when it's not running
top up the trans until you start to get some fluid running out of the fluid level hole

as this was my first time
i read and re read some post on doing it, it took me 3hrs , but i was very cautious as i didnt want to stuff it up , my first fluid drop came out through the cooler not the steel pipe, on my second drain i swapped to the lines, i also used a 10mm joiner so i had clear hose on both outlets coming into the clear container
this way you can see the color of the fluid coming out

when i had finished the first time i was out of fluid and had nothing coming out the fill plug
so i had to get another container of oil
when i did it last night i was only 250mil short of full
i checked the ultra gauge for the temp and set the level at around the 45deg mark

now that i have done the full flush, the car feels more direct in the shifts
i will do mine again in 50k to see how the color is (depending on how much towing i am doing)

i run an Ultra guage on the 150 and i can see the trans temp & the converter temp
that scare you when you see 100deg not towing going up a hill in 4th not locked, there can be as much as 25deg difference between the 2 readings
now with the cooler i dont see it rise anywhere near that quick any more and when it locks it goes straight back to the same temp

if your having it done and they only do the pan , that's on 3.5L out of 12L in the system, it helps but the flush i think is better

if the oil is black black then i would do the pan off and a screen change , but i was told but a prado specialist that's not necessary if the fluid is only brown, then the next oil change do the screen

hope that helps

[foxclan Avid PP Poster! Find all posts View Profile Close foxclan]

Great descriptive write up James.
What year model Prado was this done on?
Cheers
Troy

[chrisgrind Spammer Find all posts View Profile Close chrisgrind]

Razorback, thanks for the guide.

I was going to do it myself and decided against it as there was too many differing views on certain things, particularly 1L or 2L out before topping up...and you took 3L adding another spanner to the works.

For me there was too much risk, one of the very few things I decided not to do myself.

When you checked the fluid after the flush, did you set it with the correct temp (if so, perhaps add this to your guide above, as it is important apparently).

[Razorback81 Advanced Member Find all posts View Profile Close Razorback81]

Great descriptive write up James.
What year model Prado was this done on?
Cheers
Troy

i brought wife a 2012 150 D4D Auto to tow our caravan as my 2008 120 D4D 6sp is too heavy with the touring set up, and is too much of a pain to pull it all out

i will say 1 thing the auto is nice !!
all this car will get done to it will be suspension (for towing) maybe some skid plates, and some wiring for 2nd removable battery and some accessories plugs

after having & driving both i did look into a auto swap in mine but that became too hard
and swapping mine out to a 150 became to costly as not a lot would swap over