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Hey folks, have an engine light. Code is P0069 . Map and barro pressure issue. Could replace sensor and filter for $300 but thought I’d check on here for some ideas before I do. Any tips will be appreciated.
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Which engine are you referring to? I might be able to find the diagnosis for the 1KD-FTV. P0069 is at the top of a diagnosis tree.Originally posted by Captbear17 View Post -
Hey there its the 3L diesel model. Ive been doing a few tests, even with the engine not started the MAP reading is 113, and the barro is 100/99. If i remove the vac tube it remains at 113 with the engine on and off. Maybe moves one digit when i press the accelerator, Im leaning towards replacing the sensor. I will inject a voltage into the sensor tonight to check the wiring.Comment
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For the 1KD engine:
DTC = P0069 and other DTCs are output - Go to **DTC Chart
DTC only = Replace the ECM <---- I sure hope you have other (additional) codes!!
**DTC Chart: What other DTC codes are displayed?
P0046 Turbocharger related diagnostics
P0047 Turbocharger related diagnostics
P0048 Turbocharger related diagnostics
P0069 ECM Related diagnostics
P0087 Too Low Fuel Rail pressure diagnostics
P0088 Too High Fuel Rail pressure diagnostics
P0093 Fuel system leak detected
P0101 MAF performance problems
P0102 Open orshort in MAF
P0103 Open or short in MAF
P0106 Pressure range problem: MAF or ECM
P0107 Open or short in pressure sensor
P0108 Open or short in pressure sensor
P0112 Air intake temperature sensor
P0113 Air intake temperature sensor
...and many, many moreComment
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Nope the only code is p0069. So I’ve just driven it with the scan tool and the map sensor is working, seems to be out of spec as when the engine is off it’s 113 with baro at 100. Toyota did a scan before I picked it up barro was 100 and map 99. No fault code. Injected a voltage into the map and the wiring is ok. Also seen the map sensor pressure go up and down which means there is genuine vacuum From The manifold. I’m still thinking it’s the sensor as when the engine isn’t started is pressure indicates higher than barro. Also on clearing the code it only comes back after a few minutes with the engine off. The in-line filter also had a crack in it which I have taken out for testing purposes. I’m going to order a new sensor tomoz. I’m sure this will help others. I’ll post my findings when the new sensor is here. Happy to hear I’m wrong by anyone! Any advice is welcomeComment
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Hey again, just an update for future trouble shooters. I replaced the MAP sensor today & the inline air/oil separator. Was $450 i was fairly confident but the issue remains. I can clear the fault when its running and check for the fault while its running and no fault code. After sitting there for 45 seconds the car struggles to start and the fault comes back. There is no blockage in the air filter/intake. I've just removed it all and checked. Ive now passed it on to a mechanic. The car runs magnificently. the only issue i have is a slight rough idle at the traffic light and its slow to turn over after being off for a day or two. Again any help would be appreciated.Comment
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This link could be of interest as it lists P0069: Manifold Absolute Pressure - Barometric Pressure Correlation which is consistent with your issue. Making sense of your sensors: MAP sensor | Delphi Auto Parts.
If it's not the MAP sensor or wiring then it could be an issue with the measuring circuit in the ECU (which links to the ECM related diagnostics/fault finding requirements.in the manual).
The ECU should be putting out a constant voltage or current and measuring the opposite change due the varying resistance of the sensor. If the ECU source for the MAP sensor has changed due to a fault condition you will get errors like you are seeing. Not certain if there is a Voltage/Current range specification in the manual that you can use as a confirmation.
As a suggestion assuming your ECU is OK and its a constant current source as your reading is high check for a corroded or dirty connection somewhere between the sensor and ECU particularly if you have been through water crossings or washed the engine bay sometime before the issued started.Last edited by ptommo59; 02-03-2023, 10:44 AM.Comment
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Found a wiring diagram and repair manual for 1KD-FTV and its indicates that the MAP sensor source should be between 4.75 and 5.25V measured between the two outer pins 1 (gnd) and 3 (+ve) with ignition on. At 98 kPa (so around your expected pressure) the output between pin 1 and 2 should be between 0.9 and 1.3V increasing as the pressure goes up and reducing as it goes down.Comment
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A new sensor Tomoz is what I'm planning to order. This will with doubt benefit others. After receiving the replacement sensor, I'll publish my findings. I'm glad if someone can prove me wrong! I welcome any advice.Comment
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Picking up on this topic and thanking PTommo59 for his great input recently....
I'm chasing an issue with my MAP sensor at the moment so I have been reading the same part of the manual as quoted above but I'm reading it a bit differently. I think that the MAP should have an output of around 2.3V (between pins 1 and 2) when the car is not running. According to the chart showing the Pressure to volts of the MAP, 2.3V equates to 101kPA which is the average pressure of 1 atmosphere at sea level. The 98kPA figure quoted above is a "standard pressure" above the pressure of the atmosphere. The A in MAP is for "absolute" so that is why the manual is talking about relative increases in pressures and volts from the starting voltage. So the 98kPA equates to 101+98= 199kPA (Absolute) The manual is suggesting that the voltage should increase by 0.9 to 1.3V above the voltage already from the pressure of the atmosphere when the pressure is 98 kPA above the atmosphere.Originally posted by ptommo59 View Post
So in summary I think we should expect a voltage out of the MAP near 2.3V when just the ignition is on as we are reading atmospheric pressure. If the turbo was boosting an extra 98kPA above atmospheric pressure i.e. 199kPA absolute the MAP output voltage should be 0.9 to 1.3V above the pre-existing 2.3V. i.e. something like 3.2-3.6V.
My issue is that the output of my MAP sensor with the engine off is only 1.09V and the scanner reports this as 70kPA which is definitely not the atmospheric pressure at sea level. Because of this low voltage, I reason that my MAP sensor is no good (I have tried giving it a clean and disconnecting the vacuum lines, etc). A low MAP voltage will result in an overworked turbo because the MAP doesn't see any boost and the turbo controller asks for more boost that is really required.
I'll update the forum after I have a new MAP sensor installed.Comment
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Probably not linked to your original P0069 question as the ECU is picking up the major difference between the two pressure sensor readings but what scantool are you using?
I have been discussing a similar low MAP reading issue with a member from Timor and two of his scantools were providing a MAP reading which was low at 80 Kpa and he purchased a new MAP sensor expecting it to fix the issue and on installation the new one read identical. (His Ambient Barometric Pressure sensor was reading 100Kpa on the scantools)
He got a copy of Techstream and the MAP reading from it was 100 Kpa so in his case at least two third party scantools (TopDon and Xtool) were either not using the correct parameter or using incorrect maths to convert the MAP sensor output. His TopDon unit has since had a software update to correct the issue and he is taking this up with Xtool as well so should be sorted in his next update.
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Thanks for that tip about scanners with incorrect readings. You might be onto something.
The MAP reading of 70kPA was viewed on a Vident scanner that was borrowed from a friend. Today I plugged in my $15 generic ELM327 ebay scanner and it reported a believable MAP reading of 100kPa. If this reading is the right one, I don't have a MAP sensor issue to solve just an incorrect scanner reading. Qudos to the $15 ebay scanner for displaying the correct value.Comment
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