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mounting bolt/screws

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  • mounting bolt/screws

    Hello all
    Maybe a stupid question, but when mounting anything within the engine bay area, such as battery monitors, brackets etc... what sort of bolts or screws are generally used?
    Given it is usually hard to put a nut, do we use self drilling screws or do we drill and tap??
    all advice appreciated.
    cheers

  • #2
    Re: mounting bolt/screws

    I try to use existing threaded ( unused or already used ) points if possible. Even if it means making an adaptor bracket or plate that adapts whatever I am mounting to the existing points
    I have used self tapping screws, but only for light things like relays.
    There's also those Rivnut things, but not used them. Supposed to be OK.
    Every time you drill a new hole there's a risk of drilling through something you shouldn't.
    Cheers, Wayne

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    • #3
      Re: mounting bolt/screws

      I try to use existing holes or use rivnuts. had no probs with rivnuts yet. Ive used rivnuts that suit 8mm bolts but when doing these I tend to put a washer behind the panel; to aid in spreading the load. Haven't had one turn in it's hole yet.

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      • #4
        Re: mounting bolt/screws

        nutserts = rivnuts.
        i use nutserts where ever possible, or use existing location.
        they will last longer and be sure to paint any drilled holes.
        also use the correct drill when using nutserts. each nutsert size will have a certain drill size requirement to
        ensure maximum hold is available
        [url=http://www.fuelly.com/driver/damonat/prado][img]http://www.fuelly.com/smallsig-metric/50578.png[/img][/url]

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        • #5
          Re: mounting bolt/screws

          Originally posted by ozwapet2
          Every time you drill a new hole there's a risk of drilling through something you shouldn't.
          This brought back some memories and laughs! My 'friend' (not me honestly) had a Patrol ute and bought a couple of those toolboxes that bolt onto the chassis rails under the tray. He decided that the standard position wasn't where he wanted them so marked the toolbox holes onto the chassis rails in the 'correct' position. Then drilled new holes in the chassis rather than transferring the dimensions backwards and redrilling the boxes. One of the holes drilled very easily. Diesel makes a very nice cutting fluid!

          And I agree with what has been said already, use existing captive nuts or holes if you can. If you have to drill check several times before making the holes.
          My 150 build - http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread.php?27423-A-Random-approach-to-a-Bluestorm-150-GXL-D4D-automatic

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