1Coolbanana's Grande Build Up

[1coolbanana Avid PP Poster! Find all posts View Profile Close 1coolbanana]

Right side Baintech socket for accesories, camp lights, whatever.



Ctech charging socket in handle recess



Handle down. The handle is a little redundant as its so heavy you wouldnt be game to carry it one handed by the handle anyway.



In location between the fridge and rear seats

[1coolbanana Avid PP Poster! Find all posts View Profile Close 1coolbanana]

I was not happy with the amount of movement the battery box had even when tied down so I made some nests from ali angle to lock it in place.



And this one



Its much more solid now, moved the tie down points as well so that it pulls the box into the stops



Pretty happy with it so far I think.

Id like to get a small voltmeter display in a surface mount unit but havent found one yet.
Anyone know of one?

Oh, and this is what holds the false floor down, as well as any of the other OEM floor mounts that get used.

[Trekrider Banned Find all posts View Profile Close Trekrider]

Brilliant ingenuity there Marc

[1coolbanana Avid PP Poster! Find all posts View Profile Close 1coolbanana]

The Ctek charging

[1coolbanana Avid PP Poster! Find all posts View Profile Close 1coolbanana]

Brilliant ingenuity there Marc

Thanks Barry

BTW, I found the original breather tube from the transfer case and its definitely 1/8".

[Trekrider Banned Find all posts View Profile Close Trekrider]

BTW, I found the original breather tube from the transfer case and its definitely 1/8".

Thanks mate

[1coolbanana Avid PP Poster! Find all posts View Profile Close 1coolbanana]

For those of you who have been following my build, youll remember I wasnt too happy with the Thumper isolator charging system.
You can easily flatten your cranking battery with this system and thats just crap!!!

Although it simple I was expecting something a lot better from an Aussie company for that money, not just a relay, a circuit breaker, 2 crap plastic boxes and a bit of cable!

I was expecting at least a voltage sensitive circuit that did not charge the rear batteries until engine startup and until the voltage got to around 13.5 volts at the front before beginning the charging of the auxiliary batteries.

Anyway, the point is that I dont want rear batteries to drain my cranking battery which was possible with this very crude Thumper setup.

Since I couldnt seem to buy a small voltage sensitive relay (VSR) to drive the contactor relay, I asked the guys at work how hard it would be to make one.

Long story short, the guys were happy to help design me a simple circuit that only connects the rear batteries to the charging system when the voltage gets to 13.5 volts.

So all that was left to do was make a layout and build it

I did a layout today

And I built it tonight



Test it at work tomorrow and fit it into the fuse box in the enginge bay using and ignition trigger same as before except now it wont close the circuit before it gets to 13.5 volts.

If all goes to plan, I cant flatten my cranking battery and the rear batteries will not charge until the system sees at least 13.5 volts with the engine running :-)

Pretty crap that this 50 cent circuit like this cant be incorporated into the unit already.

Hopefully this gives me the piece of mind that I cant accidentally flatten the cranking battery when Im in the Flinders in a couple weeks!

[MUMSRIG Avid PP Poster! Find all posts View Profile Close MUMSRIG]

Good work Marc... I'm looking for something at the moment to charge the camper battery.. this could do the trick quite nicely...

[1coolbanana Avid PP Poster! Find all posts View Profile Close 1coolbanana]

Yep that will do it, just need the relay (that this triggers), a circuit breaker, a couple fuses and yer laughin

[1coolbanana Avid PP Poster! Find all posts View Profile Close 1coolbanana]

Took the board and made a temporary module out of it that would fit into the fuse box.

Added a bypass switch so if it goes bad, I can bypass it all together.

The added benefit of the bypass switch is if my cranking battery does go flat I can use the bypass to charge the cranking battery from the batteries in back.





Fits snugly in the fuse box for now.





So far works great, trips over at 13.5 volts before chaging the rear, keeps the cranking battery isolated with ignition on or off.....sweet!

Got a week to test it out before my big solo trip!

[mudboy Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close mudboy]

Hi Marc,
Looks good.where u off to on your trip

[1coolbanana Avid PP Poster! Find all posts View Profile Close 1coolbanana]

Hi mate
Off to the Flinders, Strzeleki, Camerons Corner.
Going alone so I can make it up as I go for the most part

[Matt01 Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close Matt01]

For those of you who have been following my build, youll remember I wasnt too happy with the Thumper isolator charging system.
You can easily flatten your cranking battery with this system and thats just crap!!!

Although it simple I was expecting something a lot better from an Aussie company for that money, not just a relay, a circuit breaker, 2 crap plastic boxes and a bit of cable!

I was expecting at least a voltage sensitive circuit that did not charge the rear batteries until engine startup and until the voltage got to around 13.5 volts at the front before beginning the charging of the auxiliary batteries.

Anyway, the point is that I dont want rear batteries to drain my cranking battery which was possible with this very crude Thumper setup.

Since I couldnt seem to buy a small voltage sensitive relay (VSR) to drive the contactor relay, I asked the guys at work how hard it would be to make one.

Long story short, the guys were happy to help design me a simple circuit that only connects the rear batteries to the charging system when the voltage gets to 13.5 volts.

Heres a little schematic that they handed me a couple days ago.



So all that was left to do was make a layout and build it

I did a layout today



And I built it tonight



Test it at work tomorrow and fit it into the fuse box in the enginge bay using and ignition trigger same as before except now it wont close the circuit before it gets to 13.5 volts.

If all goes to plan, I cant flatten my cranking battery and the rear batteries will not charge until the system sees at least 13.5 volts with the engine running :-)

Pretty crap that this 50 cent circuit like this cant be incorporated into the unit already.

Hopefully this gives me the piece of mind that I cant accidentally flatten the cranking battery when Im in the Flinders in a couple weeks!

You might need to build some hysteresis(delay) into the circuit, so that the relay does not jump in and out when it is at the 13.5v cut in point.

[1coolbanana Avid PP Poster! Find all posts View Profile Close 1coolbanana]

After testing it out today, its not quite working the way I want anyway.
The lower limit was underestimated so it cuts in and out too often.
Im going to have to have another go and modify it to include a lower limit.

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Todays little job