Love it, I'll patch the ground wire up for a trip I've got next week and then will plan the replacement with the Albright Solenoid.
That thing looks frigen awesome, nice neat install. (Buy Buy Warn Box!).
If you have an in-cab winch switch it is probably a good idea to have some form of isolation switch. Most people switch the low current negative side as it is cheaper/easier. I'm researching ways to switch the high current positive. You also can't fuse the high current positive side for obvious reasons so switching it also makes sense. Re disconnecting it, that would be a PITA trying to connect it if you're up to your knees in mud.
Couple of thing I managed to get to over the weekend.
1. Replace old bolts on Winch.
New V's Old.... New high Tensile Bolts + Spring Washer + Washer.
2. Rewire Winch Control's
After initial stuff up (see previous posts) I now have the winch directly connected to the secondary battery (Crank) and have the dash key lock completing the "Motor Ground" circuit. This is fused (5amp) close to the winch. When this key lock is open the winch in/out on dash will not operate, when it is closed....the opposite.
3. Make Air Compressor easier to use
My Air compressor had a long air hose and a short power cord, so I wound find myself going backward and forwards turning the compressor off to check the tyre pressure. So now I have put a long power cord and new switch and have made the air hose shorter.
Now I simply carry the winch around with me to do all 4 tyre up and can turn it on and off with my thumb.
Now it also seems to pump the tyres up quicker, maybe because less pressure is lost on the air hose?
Finally put aside time to get power run to the rear of the prado, original plan was to have all the 12volt plugs sitting flush on the rear cargo plastic kick panels.
After starting to pull apart the rear cargo area including the 3rd row seats to get access to the side panel removal, I think I must of stood there staring at the task ahead and issues for at least 10minutes...Just a blank face.
There is not as much room behind the rear kick panels as what I thought would be their!! (WTF is that White plastic box with the cogs on it???) So change of Plans..
Decided to simply run power to the rear and bring it up through the rear cup holder, then I used a simple Anderson style plugs on the end to allow me to connect different power options.
First Option I put together was a simple 12volt plug box to be used when I have the fridge in the back and maybe lights and kits stuff... I have left the cord long enough that I can have the box outside the rear of the car if required.
Wiring is 6mm core from the front with a 50amp resettable fuse, everything is soldered together (no crimping for me), heat shrinked and protected with Split Loom Electrical Conduit. The box has a fuse box within in with a dedicated fuse for each socket, I think I will add a volt / current meter to the spare room there...
Rear Diff Breather
Ran the rear diff breather up into the Fuel filler area.... (no photo's)
Couple of additions to the recovery bag of tricks..
New "interlocking safety hook" with "Hammer lock", rated to 4.5Ton.
New Chainsaw, big decision between the Stihl and the Husqvarna. Ended up going for the Husqvarna due to the Air filter system and the easy start, did not opt for the "trio brake". Loving it, got the 435.
Modified the Caravan power setup with some Baintech bits and pieces to help me see what is going on with current load.
Got a Baintech fuse block and a "Amp/Amp" Meter for measuring current flow. The Amp/Amp meter uses "Hall Effect" conductors to measure the flow, so no need to cut any cables just feed them through.
You can see from the picture I am measuring current flow from the battery and from the solar, this allows me to measure what is handling the load (battery or solar) at a given time. Was thinking of just running both off the battery to measure current in/out, however I get a bit more info this way on whats going on.
Interesting to watch the current flow from the battery initially when load is turned on, then watch it drop as the load it taken up from the solar system....
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