Perfect thanks, that's exactly the info I was after
Cheers
Robert
[B]Robert
[URL="http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread.php?32134-Gumboot-s-120-D4D-GXL"]2007 D4D GXL Prado[/URL][/B]
[I]"The true measure of a man is how he treats someone who can do him absolutely no good."[/I]
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
Last edited by MidLifeCrisis; 25-03-2014, 02:59 PM.
Reason: Common decency and the fear of retribution from Tiny
[B][COLOR=blue]Bitumen: A blatant waste of taxpayers money![/COLOR][/B]
[URL="http://www.pradopoint.com/viewtopic.php?f=38&t=12197&start=0&st=0&sk=t&sd=d"]My rig buildup[/URL] [URL="http://www.pradopoint.com/album.php?albumid=141"]Mundaring Power Lines Jan 01[/URL] [URL="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KuQmi3Tgoe0&feature=feedu=d"]You Tube Video Morgan Quarry[/URL]
I love it when the postie comes bearing gifts... Just the fronts this time, the rears don't need replacing at this time. Now I nne to find the time to install them.
I got around to installing the rotors and pads this afternoon. It wasn't a huge ordeal, just a bit painful with one bolt that holds the calipers being unhelpful. Extra helping of WD40 and a bit of extra persuasion had the offender out.
Considering this was the first time that I have changed rotors on a car, I was surprised how easy a job it was. Not worth the $200 I was quoted to have it done for me. Now it's a case of saving for the rear rotors and pads then I can change them over and flush out the old fluid.
Also got a chance to clean the MAFsensor yesterday after borrowing the cleaning spray from Iantz. Don't think it was too gunked up as it didn't take much cleaner to have it looking better.
I got around to installing the rotors and pads this afternoon. It wasn't a huge ordeal, just a bit painful with one bolt that holds the calipers being unhelpful. Extra helping of WD40 and a bit of extra persuasion had the offender out.
Considering this was the first time that I have changed rotors on a car, I was surprised how easy a job it was. Not worth the $200 I was quoted to have it done for me. Now it's a case of saving for the rear rotors and pads then I can change them over and flush out the old fluid.
Also got a chance to clean the MAFsensor yesterday after borrowing the cleaning spray from Iantz. Don't think it was too gunked up as it didn't take much cleaner to have it looking better.
Is it straight forward? I have to do mine with all the parts waiting patiently
[B][COLOR=blue]Bitumen: A blatant waste of taxpayers money![/COLOR][/B]
[URL="http://www.pradopoint.com/viewtopic.php?f=38&t=12197&start=0&st=0&sk=t&sd=d"]My rig buildup[/URL] [URL="http://www.pradopoint.com/album.php?albumid=141"]Mundaring Power Lines Jan 01[/URL] [URL="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KuQmi3Tgoe0&feature=feedu=d"]You Tube Video Morgan Quarry[/URL]
Yeah, really simple.
-wheel off (pretty obvious,Lol)
-Spray liberal amounts of WD40 on 2 bolts at the back of the calipers
-Remove split pins from brake pad locating rod
-Slide rods out as well as spring loaded wire on bottom rod (remember path of wire)
-Remove old brake pads. At this point I loosened the cap on the brake reserviour to release pressure on the pistons.
-prise back front and rear brake pistons to make sliding in new pads easier
-remove bolts from calipers and move away from rotor. I then put them on a stand so there was no bending of the brake lines
-slide old rotor off and new rotor on
-reinstall caliper and screw bolts back in
-insert new pads making sure to use correct pads in their right position (there will be a description on the back of the pads to indicate position)
-once lined up, the rods go back in with the spring loaded wire on the bottom rod
-split pins go back in
-wheel on and then brake fluid cap replaced
-jump in the car and pump the brake pedal to bring the pressure back up then take for a test drive
-doneski, finito
Very happy, picked up a rear bar on the weekend from a fellow PP'er. Just a little bit of a touch up required before fitting.
It's a MCC number with Hayman Reece tow hitch. Thankyou Mr MLC.
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