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Fido666's 150 Kakadu

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  • #76
    Sorry Sydneydude I don't know what to advise as my lean is in the back not the front and pretty much always has been. I had over 30mm of lean in the back before we played with the sensors, have it down to about 20mm now. I know Anthony opened up the valve/accumulator for the sensor tweak but it didn't seem to make much difference.

    I read in another thread that it's something to do with how the KDSS fluid is distributed but will have to find the thread again.

    Tweaking the sensors will only compromise the travel if you go too far, we ended up taking some washers out on one side as there was too much lift.

    Correction: I did have a bit of a lean in the front before the springs went on, about 15mm and that hasn't changed AFAIK. You should give your springs some time to settle before attempting any tweaks to the rear but not sure what you should do at the front.
    Last edited by fido666; 14-07-2013, 09:35 PM. Reason: Add correction.

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    • #77
      Sydneydude and others with KDSS (Kakadu's), the 200's with KDSS have the same issue and this needs to be fixed by your Toyota dealership (if they have the equipment)...

      It needs to be bled and more specifically repressurised. It costs about $350 and about half the dealers have the right machine to do it. This is NOT just bleeding the system. You will also need a wheel alignment afterwards.

      Cheers
      2007 Update 120 D4D, GXL Auto Option Pack 1 - ARB winch bar, ARB UVP, ARB tradesman rack, 2" OME, Safari Snorkel, HR towbar, Tigerz11 12000lb Grande, IPF 900 Extreme, W602C, Hilux Scoop
      My Build [url]http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread.php?28720-Jamie-s-Prado-120-D4D[/url]

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      • #78
        I am curious as to whether anyone's heard of a limit to the available lift with the factory electronic suspension (TENS?)
        [COLOR="darkred"][SIZE="2"]2010 Ebony Diesel Auto VX Limited,Colour Coded ARB Bull Bars with Side Rails (For all the sheep),IPF 900XS Driving Lights,12,000lb Trailmaster Winch with Wireless Remote,Safari Snorkel,ARB/Redarc Dual Battery System,Custom Metal Mudflap Extensions,Recovery Kit with Handwinch,Maxtrax,folding winch anchor (for tussock land)[/SIZE][/COLOR]

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        • #79
          Deleted post
          Last edited by Bawky; 16-07-2013, 08:46 PM.
          2013 Kakadu, pearl white, Cooper ST MAXX 275 65 18 123Q tyres, Safari Snorkel, ARB UVP, diff breathers, UHF GME TX3345, Red Arc 2nd battery, BMW luggage hdp, tint, ARB bull bar, synthetic winch, OME 2" lift, LED Intensity spot lights, ARB side steps, Kaymar rear bumper with 2 JC, spare and LED pole ligh, ARB compressor, ARB front air locker, Toyota rear diff lock.

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          • #80
            Originally posted by Bawky View Post
            Thanks jamieprado, do you know of raised and leaning Prados which that has fixed? If so that would certainly explain a lot. I have been following this issue for a long time. I know some people have bled their system and reported they still had the lean.
            Would also be excited to know. I have Dobinsons C59-726 in the front to cater for additional weight of winch and bull bar and to provide a (nice) 40mm lift. Like the factory springs they are slightly different in length

            I am still in confusion what works to fix that 25mm lean ... Browsing through threads I have found people have tried the following
            • A 6 to 10mm spacer on the right strut. Don't know how successful that is. However I do not want some extra 15-20mm lift and it's seems to be 'illegal'.
            • Fitting Bilstein shocks. Technically it does not make sense to me (nor does it to the installer), but nevertheless chances are it may work (bfranzen or stevejau reported about this?)
            • Re-adjusting (i.e. repressurising) the KDSS as mentioned by jamieprado makes sense. But like Bawky I can't remember anyone reporting about this procedure and how successful it is
            • Manipulating the rear sensors. That make sense to me, but have not experimented with that.


            Can anybody report about their experiences with these modifications?
            2010 Kakadu. TJM T13 bar, TJM 9500lb winch, FJ Cruiser 17" rims with 265/70R17 Coopers S/T maxx, 40mm lift, Dobinson's C59-726, Bilstein shocks, Airtek snorkel, Recovery points, Brown Davies bash plates, TG150 transfer case guard. Rhino Pioneer Platform SuperPeg Rear Awning. Drifta Drawer System, Cargobarrier. Optima dual battery. GME UHF, Sandgrabbas.. ARB 47l fridge freezer.

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            • #81
              Guys, appreciate the discussion but this is a build thread so not sure it belongs here.

              All I can say is I've always had a slight lean on the front even with the factory springs which are also different lengths. Adjusting the rear sensors has helped correct the lean in the back but not completely eliminated it.

              I'm happy overall as the Kaka sits fairly level when viewed from the side, no more nose up and no more diving under brakes, etc.

              I should add that people use Bilsteins as they have an adjustable circlip to provide the spacer effect without using one. I prefer to keep my factory adjustable shocks for now.
              Last edited by fido666; 16-07-2013, 01:48 PM.

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              • #82
                Originally posted by fido666 View Post
                Guys, appreciate the discussion but this is a build thread so not sure it belongs here.

                All I can say is I've always had a slight lean on the front even with the factory springs which are also different lengths. Adjusting the rear sensors has helped correct the lean in the back but not completely eliminated it.

                I'm happy overall as the Kaka sits fairly level when viewed from the side, no more nose up and no more diving under brakes, etc.

                I should add that people use Bilsteins as they have an adjustable circlip to provide the spacer effect without using one. I prefer to keep my factory adjustable shocks for now.
                You're right, our discussion does not belong here. Sorry, didnt mean to hijack the thread
                2010 Kakadu. TJM T13 bar, TJM 9500lb winch, FJ Cruiser 17" rims with 265/70R17 Coopers S/T maxx, 40mm lift, Dobinson's C59-726, Bilstein shocks, Airtek snorkel, Recovery points, Brown Davies bash plates, TG150 transfer case guard. Rhino Pioneer Platform SuperPeg Rear Awning. Drifta Drawer System, Cargobarrier. Optima dual battery. GME UHF, Sandgrabbas.. ARB 47l fridge freezer.

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                • #83
                  Added a new but unintended mod to the Kaka yesterday :-



                  Damn bin!

                  I've been told it is fixable but the quote is $550 incl GST. I wonder what a steel bar would cost?

                  On a more cheery note it looks like my redesigned recovery points are nearly here, the new shipment is due in a couple of weeks.

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                  • #84
                    go Kaymar rear bumper as replacement!!
                    [B]Bruce[/B]
                    2011 Kakadu D4D, Pearl, Cooper STMAX 275/65/18, Rhino Aero Racks, ARB BB, IPF 9000XS HID lights, Safari Snorkel, GME TX3540 UHF Radio, ARB Air, ARB Aux Batt Kit, Rhino Shovel Holders, Thule Up Bike Carrier, Rhino Half Platform, Lovells Fr Springs, Billie Shocks F&R, Custom Front Recovery Points, Tigerz11 Awning, Custom elecs, Diff Breathers, ARB UVP

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                    • #85
                      Yeah good idea but what is the cost?

                      Edit: Just realised the Kaymar rear bar still requires the use of the part of my bumper which is damaged so don't think that's going to be an option.
                      Last edited by fido666; 06-09-2013, 07:12 PM.

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                      • #86
                        Kaymar rear bar is $2500 -$3500 depending on what you go for, just depends how far you want to take the kaka. Personally it would probably annoy me having to release the tyre swing arm then open the door every time I wanted to put something in the back.
                        150 with stuff bolted on!
                        [url]http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread.php?27272-JPH-s-150-GXL[/url]

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                        • #87
                          Originally posted by JPH View Post
                          Kaymar rear bar is $2500 -$3500 depending on what you go for, just depends how far you want to take the kaka. Personally it would probably annoy me having to release the tyre swing arm then open the door every time I wanted to put something in the back.
                          I like the idea, but I KNOW it would annoy the beejeezes out of me having to swing the arm everytime I was in and out of the back - but ours is an everyday drive, as well as funbus ;-)
                          2005 Diesel Funbus Driver

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                          • #88
                            And how the heck did a sulo bin manage to bite your pradie like that?? OMG!!
                            The sulo bin needs to learn some manners, it doesn't play well with others :-/
                            2005 Diesel Funbus Driver

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                            • #89
                              Perhaps the bigger question is how didn't you know the bin was there? You nearly hit it with a reversing sensor! Isn't your kaka covered in cameras as well? Too busy drinking latte I suspect! Bit of a bugger hope you get it sorted ASAP. You could always tell your friends you Did it on a bush track and wear it like a dodgy badge of honour!
                              150 with stuff bolted on!
                              [url]http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread.php?27272-JPH-s-150-GXL[/url]

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                              • #90
                                Not good with the recently added "bodywork" (and subsequent costs).
                                I too was keen on a rear bar, but have been put off by the idea of having to release the spare to open the rear door. I know that aspect would end-up annoying the crap out of us.

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