Announcement

J Janke · 12-02-2015, 12:00 PM

Dobinsons deluxe Bullbar (colour coded)
I went for the Dobinsons deluxe Bullbar as I particularly like the stainless steel 3 hoop look. I would have definitely gone for an ARB Sahara bar except for the fact it only had the centre hoop. Turns out it’s actually made by MCC Bullbar but pretty happy with it. http://www.dobinsonsprings.com/acces...-stainless.php

With the help of an overhead chain and forklift, i managed to install it by myself. I didn’t worry wiring the lights up straight away but I did install the bash plates. The Bullbar is winch compatible but winch isn’t looking likely in the short term.
With the stainless loops it took a little while to get used to bit of glare but have got used to it. I did initially intend to paint the back but a mate had done this to a similar bar and the paint is starting to come off and to redo it will be a night mare and black tape didn’t really tickle my fancy.

After the first trip I was a bit concerned about the movement of the Bullbar and the noises it was making. I since found out that its normal for the apparent movement which is actually the whole vehicle body moving on the chassis mounts. The main noise that it was making seemed to be the bash plates chattering so to speak. A friend advised reinstalling them and putting some foam tape were they join each other and the Bullbar which I did and has certainly fixed this issue.

I would like to remake the bash plate to sit a bit lower on the wings as the RH plate is all but touching the windscreen washer reservoir and there is a 200mm gap between plates and the radiator which I can picture stick, roo leg or something else getting through and stuffing the radiator.

Overall assessment of the Bullbar: easy to fit when following the instructions and despite not quite the same quality of an ARB you get what you pay for.

J Janke · 12-02-2015, 12:00 PM

Suspension lift
For my 50mm lift I went for Dobinsons springs and shocks
- Dobinsons GS59-221 front shocks
- C59-314 front springs (heavy duty)
- Dobinsons GS59-701 Rear shocks
- C59-325 rear springs

I followed amts awesome instruction thread and it made it a breeze. I will remind all that a wheel alignment is essential after upgrading suspension. Saved $400 thanks to the instructions which went straight into the mods fund.
http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread...ade-for-Grande

Here are some specs on before and after measure from middle of wheel to wheel arch.

FRH: 515mm (Before) #FRH: 600mm (After)
FLH: 510mm (Before) FLH: 600mm (After)
RLH: 545mm (Before) RLH: 595mm (After)
RRH: 545mm (Before) RRH: 595mm (After)
Measured from Axle centre to wheel arch

J Janke · 12-02-2015, 12:01 PM

Dual battery
From the day we got the Prado I always had intentions of installing dual batteries. I spent many hours on Pradopoint going through many different dual battery threads and rig build ups. I wanted it to be neat and tidy and its looking ok but due a prem bub coming along I haven't got back to finishing it all off neatly.

So this is what I went for:
• Custom made dual battery tray
• Alco battery
• 2x 150amp waterproof manual reset Circuit breakers
• Redarc SBI12D (D:dual sensing)
• 3B&S Red and Black cable
• 3B&S cable lugs
• Heat shrink (black and red Dual wall adhesive)
• Oex hold down clamps
• Split conduit
• zipties
• Custom rockers switch http://www.customrockers.com.au/epag...UE%20ON/OFF%22
• 7-core trailer wire (for Override and other switches)
• LeighW voltage booster diode

I made brackets to mount the Redarc and main battery Circuit breaker, aux battery circuit breaker and as the OEX hold down clamp bracket was a waste of money I also made new bracket for both batteries also. I gave them some 2 pack paint to make it look the part and then fitted it all up.

The switch located to the left of the steering wheel is an ON/OFF switch and is used to override the Redarc solenoid to enable jump starting.

The Batteries are protected by the circuit breakers which will allow the AUX battery to be isolated in the event of an emergency. I also made a metal/copper link between the Redarc solenoid and the main battery circuit breaker as they were so close and cable having to loop around too much.

I also installed LeighW voltage booster diode from eBay which should help with healthy charging.

As I mentioned its not yet complete but here are some pics

J Janke · 12-02-2015, 12:04 PM

Engine bay fuse panel and relay mount
After installing the Lightbar on the bullbar, roof rack, rear light bracket and with future electrical mods to come I wanted to tidy up all the wiring while I was designing my dual battery set up. Future mods hopefully include ARB CKMA compressor, awning light, and winch.

So I took to Pradopoint for some more great ideas and decided on make some bits and pieces to house a relay mount gang and fuse panel. Along with the 7 core trailer wiring coming from inside I chose to add another 7 core. As I have already used all 7 wires and with the future mods in mind I thought this should well and truly cover it. It will be a bit of challenge in the future with 2 lots of 7 core but I thought by colour coding 1 outer sheath with some red heat shrink will help. Pity helps the next owner if there is one.

Here is what I used.
• Custom made fuse panel bracket
• Custom made relay gang bracket (same bracket that holds Anderson plug 50amp circuit breakers)
• 12 way Baintech fuse panel - http://www.baintech.com.au/fuse-bloc...ade-fuse-block
• Nava relay 68028
• Relay base (Ashdown Ingram p/n : ACX1997) or similar to this - http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/RELAY-BAS...p2054897.l5662
• conduit
• 7 core trailer wire
• 6B&S twin core
• 6B&S cable lugs
• Rivnut

I made the brackets while making the dual battery brackets and also gave them some paint. For the fuse panel bracket I had to install and additional rivnut in the wheel arch.
I then bolted these in and run 6B&S twin core from the main battery, in front of radiator and then to the fuse panel. With 6 relay bases I currently only require 3 (bullbar led, roof rack led and reverse led) but have 2 saved for future mods (ARB Compressor and awning/ camp lights). I initially had the other for if I decided to mount more lights on the bullbar.

Back to installing, I connect all the relay earths together and run to the fuse panel negative bus bar. Then even though it’s an over kill I run 6mm from fuse panel +ve to pin 30 on relay bases. Shouldn’t have issue with voltage drops in this part. For the compressor relay I did actually run 8B&S.

Then using the associated wires from the cabin 7 core wiring I connected them up to switch their associated relay. Wiring was then redirected from the Lightbar to pin 87 on the correct relay. The –ve was then connected to the –ve bus bar on fuse panel.

For the awning lights I connected some 3mm twin core to the associated pins and run it the LHs of then engine bay and just heat shrinked the ends of the wires. This simply means all I have to when I eventually need it is solder some more 3mm on, some more conduit and run to awning and a fuse in the fuse panel.

Now with the ARB compressor I did some research and although it comes with a 40amp mega fuse the ARB website specifications suggests that I should draw no more than 25amp at 12V under full load (http://www.arb.com.au/media/products...ifications.pdf ). Going off this info I felt confident with running the compressor through this fuse panel and relay set up. Using 8B&S I run this from the compressor relay to the rear LHS of the engine bay where hopefully I’ll get to install a compressor.

With a few spots spare in the fuse panel 1 was used for the under bonnet lights and still got a few spare should Pradopoint convince me of something else I need.

im yet to finish installing cable ends and running a few wires before cleaning it all up but here are some pics.

Here are some Pradopoint links I found helpful in coming up with this.
http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread...relay-mounting
http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread...lzone-fuse-box
http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread...fuse-box-block
http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread...-Fusebox-Setup

J Janke · 12-02-2015, 12:05 PM

Flat and round trailer plug
When it come to replacing the busted and dodgy trailer plug I decided to simply put both flat and round sockets. This eliminates forgetting and or not having the correct adapter when you borrow a mates trailer with the wrong plug.

Here are the supplies.
• Nava 82042BL, 7 Pin Flat 'Quickfit' Trailer Socket
• Nava 82022BL, 7 Pin Small Round Plastic Trailer Socket
• Bracket to hold both trailer plugs and Anderson plug.
• Split Conduit
• Heat shrink (black Dual wall adhesive)

I used 1.6m zinc anneal for the bracket, hopefully the photos explain the rest. For the wiring I taped into the existing trailer harness but only joined 1 wire every 30mm so the harness didn’t have a big bulge in it. Then run the harness in conduit and fitted it all up.

J Janke · 12-02-2015, 12:06 PM

Headunit and reversing camera
My wife loved the idea of a reversing camera, so I got a new headunit with a reversing camera. The headunit has Bluetooth and iPod control which is great compared to a headunit with not allot going for it. Also has navigation.

I followed http://www.lcool.org/technical/120_s...ra/camera.html to replaced the headunit but chose to install the camera above the towball so its centre and to aid with hooking up to a trailer.

I have put the camera on an on off on switch which allows me to turn the camera on manually or with reverse - http://www.customrockers.com.au/epag...UE%20ON/OFF%22 . The reverse signal was taped into behind the passenger kick panel. There is a relay with 2 red with black trace wires. I selected the larger wire as it has more current capacity not that it takes much to run a camera and switch the headunit. This was then fused.

For the manual mode, I removed the wires from the top 12V socket in the dash, fused the +ve and used it to power this function and other functions requiring ACC +ve. (I have since replaced the +ve to the socket with aux battery +ve)

The quality of the picture is awesome and its great being able to check the tow hitch is connected properly. Plenty of brownie point scored on this mod.

Headunit: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/TOYOTA-GP...item2a2e81a702
Camera: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/like/3312...=true&lpid=107
headunit and reverse camera links
http://www.pradopoint.com/archive/in...p/t-26272.html
http://www.pradopoint.com/archive/in...p/t-30949.html
http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread...ch-Control-Box

Pictures to follow

I then decided to put a front facing camera after again being persuaded by Pradopoint member’s threads (Thanks Craigm and Shangus). I haven’t got around to fitting the camera but have run the AV cable and power cable. Watch this space.

J Janke · 12-02-2015, 12:07 PM

Front and Rear Anderson plug
Along with the dual battery this was always on the will do list rather than wish list as for camping I normally tow a camper trailer. I also wanted this to be neat and tidy install and thanks again to Pradopoint for many good ideas this is what I went for:
• 2x 50amp waterproof manual reset Circuit breakers
• 2x 50amp Anderson plugs
• 6B&S twin core 10 metres
• 6B&S cable lugs
• Heat shrink (black and red Dual wall adhesive)
• Zip ties
• 19mm split conduit
• Custom made Circuit breaker and relay panel
• Custom made Anderson plug and trailer plug bracket

First of all I decided how to mount my Anderson plug. While I was installing both flat and round trailer plug sockets, I made a whole new mounting bracket to accommodate all 3 plugs. See trailer plug...

The plug sat on the back looking pretty for 6months until I eventually run the 6B&S twin from the engine bay. I opted to go through the passenger’s side grommet in the fire wall and run under the kick plates, through to the back and then through the grommet the main trailer plug harness come from and eventually wired into the Anderson plug.I only used conduit in the engine bay and at the back once it had come out the back of the car.

I m going to put an Anderson plug at the front to use as a charging point, both solar and 240V-12V charger without having to lift the bonnet. I will again use a 50amp Anderson plug and then 6B&S to a 50amp circuit breaker in the engine bay.

The three Circuit breakers (1 for front A.P, 1 for rear A.P, and 1 for boot aux power) run off tthe Auxillery battery and instead of individual cable runs to the circuit breaker I chose to run a single 3B&S and made a metal/copper link between them. This made it neat and with it insulated it should be as good as cable.

J Janke · 12-02-2015, 12:09 PM

Lights under bonnet
This was a pretty simple install. Makes looking under the hood a breeze once the sun has set. This is what I used.
• LED strip - http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/5050-SMD-...-/120942085767
• 3mm win core
• On off toggle switch
• Switch rubber boot
• Door switch
• Conduit
• High temp contact adhesive

First of all I cut 2x 1 metre lengths of LED strip and soldered onto 3mm wire. This was then secured under the bonnet using high temp contact adhesive as the 3M tape that comes on the light is pathetic. The wires were run in conduit following the windscreen washer hoses to the fuse panel.

The +ve goes straight to the fuse and –ve first runs to an on/off switch and then is earthed through a door switch. The on/off switch is simply to be able to turn the light on or off with the bonnet raised and the door switch means that regardless of the position of the on/off switch, when the bonnet is closed this makes and open circuit and the bonnet light will shut off.

Hopefully the pictures best explain how the door switch is mounted and operates.

J Janke · 12-02-2015, 12:10 PM

Interior LED light kit
Upon replacing the dull interior lighting I come across a kit for the Prado 120 from the LED LAD. Using the help from Pradopoint I was able to change all the lights out pretty easily.
http://www.theledlad.com/Products---Toyota.html

J Janke · 12-02-2015, 12:11 PM

Light bar for bulbar
I already had a light bar for the Bullbar and as soon as the Bullbar was installed so was the light bar.

List of items:
• 240W light bar http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/like/1613...=true&lpid=107
• 4mm Twin core wire
• Custom rocker switch http://www.customrockers.com.au/epag...AR%20(BLUE)%22
• Narva Relay 68028
• 2 pin Deustch plug kit
• 2x inline fuse (Ashdown ingram p/n: ACX1728bl)(this is a crimp and assemble inline fuse which means no soldering require)
• Conduit

It’s a 240W with 24 10W chips. It’s meant to punch out 24000lumens and I’m not going to argue because it’s a pretty good light. Using the laws of electricity this should be drawing 20amps but upon using an Amp clamp I found it was only using 15.5 amps so if fused it with a 15Amp fuse and after 8 months it’s still working.

Watts divided Volts = Amps
240W divided 12V= 20amps

I also purchased a technical manual and using the wiring diagram I eventually found parklight power and high beam +ve coming out of the bottom of the steering column and I used this for the carling rocker switches both being fused by inline fuses. The parklight is for lighting the bottom part of the switch and the highbeam goes through the switch and then to the relay.

I used a wire from the 7 core trailer wire used for the dual battery over ride to switch the relay for the bullbar LED Lightbar.

From the relay I run 4mm twin core to the bullbar with +ve fused before relay. Cable was run in conduit and sealed ends with heatshrink.

J Janke · 12-02-2015, 12:18 PM

180W light bar for front Roof rack.
After looking through fellow Pradopoint members build ups and seeing the advantage of a Lightbar on the roof made it incredibly tempting so I went for it.

This is what I got.
� 180W Lightbar 18000lumen http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/like/2711...=true&lpid=107
� 4mm twin core
� Custom rocker switch http://www.customrockers.com.au/epag...AR%20(BLUE)%22
� Nava relay 68028
� 2 pin deustch connector
� Rhino rack leg spacer http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/like/2515...=true&lpid=107

First of all I had to figure out how to make it fit. With the help of the rhino leg spacers I gained an addition 10mm but still not enough. Due to the shape and positioning of the Lightbar in relation to the rack I was able to cut the Lightbar mounting brackets down to enable it fit. As it almost touches the roof added some foam tape to ensure it wouldn�t rub and or vibrate.

Using the same high beam feed as the bullbar Lightbar I used the customer rocker switch and another wire from the dual battery 7 core wiring to switch a separate relay for the roof Lightbar. Using 4mm twin core this was run through the inner guard, (following the windscreen washer hose) up the windscreen seal and along the roof seal to the first roof rack with 2 pin deustch connector to connect to the Lightbar.

I wanted the roof Lightbar on a separate switch as I was advised it can be good being able to shut it off when on dusty road from the dust lighting up over the bonnet. Apart from dust on a gravel road the performance is exception. I mentioned with the bullbar a small amount of glare on the stainless loops but it is not at all an issue with the Lightbar on.

J Janke · 12-02-2015, 12:19 PM

Tyre spacer, light and antenna bracket.
I always liked the idea of a rear light on the back after seeing amts tyre spacer and light bracket. After seeing a patrol with a small light bar over the back tyre I thought why not. Here is a list of what I used:
� Custom made tyre spacer-light bracket
� Light bar (72w 14inch Flood Beam Cree Led Work Light Bar Offroad Truck Wagon Lamp 180w/198w)
� Uniden antenna. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/UNIDEN-AT...E:L:OC:AU:3160
� Custom rocker switch http://www.customrockers.com.au/epag...AR%20(BLUE)%22
� 3x 16mm (as suggested by amts - http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread...-Option/page28
� 4x 70mmx10mm fine thread bolts
� Black silicone
� Zipties
� M8 lock nuts
� 2 pin deustch connector
� Conduit
� 3mm twin core cable

One rule the wife had was no antennas on the bullbar which didn�t worry me but managed to convince her of putting one on the back.

Seen I had the larger light and had to go a larger bracket. Tyre spacer bracket is made of 40mm box, bigger than what I would have liked but to get the light bracket above the tyre I had to go with this. The light bracket is 30mm box; cut shut and welded an incredible amount of times. Antenna mount is just 40x5m flat welded in. Lots of grinding before giving it an etch primer and the Dulux high gloss black. I chose to put foam tape behind bracket to stop rubbing against back door.

I put 2 cable glands though the 40mm box rather than going around it to avoid the cables running through. To see where the cables could come in the back door I removed the back door skin as noted many times on Pradopoint. Seen I had an antenna coax cable I couldn�t get my wiring and cable through a bolt so I again went for a cable gland through the back door. It was simply a calculated guess but didn�t turn out to bad. As you can see in the pics I wasn�t able to get the plastic retaining nut on but with some black silicone and having to thread the gland in I can�t see it moving in a hurry.

I installed the light and the antenna and secured by the picture cable tie points I welded on. Cables then run into the back door and carefully through the rubber grommet between the back door and back RH corner panel Coax cable and twin core was then run down the RHS similar to how I run 6B&S for rear Anderson plug. Coax cable doesn�t quite reach into driver foot well but not worried at the moment as I haven�t got the heart to part with $499 or so for the remote GME 3540 UHF I would like. The twin core is then run through to the engine bay and to its designated relay. Switched power comes from its on/off/on switch in the cab. Yes on/off/on meaning, reverse/off/ how do you like this mate, turn your high beams off.

The tyre does sit further out from the back door than desire but as mentioned earlier it had to be 40mm to fit the 30mm light bracket without the wheel hitting in and or the wiper blade. For the light I drilled a 19mm hole into the bottom of the light bracket used lock nuts to secure the light. I�m pretty confident no one will be able to get a spanner and or ordinary ratchet to flog it. I had to use an extra short, thin wall � socket to be able to adjust without removing the tyre.

The light does impede on the view from the main review mirror somewhat. This didn�t bother my better half though which was great .

As for the antenna, the short 3.5db antenna will stay on there until I get a UHF and the 6.5 will only get used when really need. The short antenna just sits above the line of the roof so it should be sufficient for convoy use.

Thanks again to Pradopoint for all the ideas and tips and tricks.

J Janke · 12-02-2015, 12:20 PM

Number plate hinge
After helping a mate fit an ARB bullbar and Warn winch on his cruiser and seeing the hinged number plate bracket he bought I convinced myself to try something similar. With a few bits and pieces from the shed and some brainstorming I come up with this. This is what I used:

� 50mm stainless steel hinge (width of number plate)
� 6mm aluminium rivets
� 12mm x 3mm x 3mm centre hole magnet - http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/10pcs-N35...item2a1e6ac728
� 3mm x 8mm aluminium rivets

First I removed the number plate and give it a cleanup and cleaned the bull bar. I then cut the stainless hinge to length and drilled holes in it and the number plate before riveting the hinge and number plate together. I used 6mm rivets and for these rivets the squashed bit was on the number plate side to ensure the hinge would still fold flat. Whilst drilling holes in the hinge for the plate I also measured and drilled holes to rivet directly to the bull bar using the existing bullbar holes. I then rivet the hinge and number plate to the bullbar. The rivets on the number plate side were then bashed flat using 2 hammers. Looks a bit rough but better than the squashed rivet end look.

The magnets are to hold the number plat down in position and then when folded up to keep it folded up ( hopefully for when I get a winch and am doing lots of 4x4ing and getting stuck having fun) I found out the hard way with these magnets on how to position them. Initially I drilled a hole in the desired position, 1 each side of the plate and as they are counter sunk I put 1 magnet each side with countersunk face facing away from number plate both sides and secures with a rivet. I wanted it like this so the rivet head would sit in the countersunk face and likewise the other side. 1 problem, with the magnets situated like this back to back they fought against each other and effectively cancels out the desired magnetic effect.

Upon removing the magnets and letting them sit together they like to sit countersunk face to flat face. I then riveted them on again with the countersunk face facing outside of number plate but the rivet end on the inside stuck out to much and the magnet didn�t work to well. In the fold up position it worked really well. I tried to tap the rivet flat but the magnets simply shattered. I then carefully installed the magnets with the countersunk face now facing the bullbar. It holds quite well this way but not 100% convince of the rivet end on the outside face. The magnets do hold it in both positions, better in the lower position which is most important.

Only cost $10 and was a bit of fun and learnt a bit along the way. Hopefully this can be of use to someone else and I�m even more hopeful about getting a winch to put this little mod to use.

[IMG]
[IMG]

J Janke · 12-02-2015, 12:31 PM

Rear door strut
From others help I went to my local strut Re-gas store and got a strut fitted for the back door. see url]http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread.php?24467-Rear-door-gas-strut-mod[/url]

Here is what I ended up with
- 1x 610mm 8mm shaft strut with 310N and 60% oil dampening.
First off all remove the factory rear door lock bracket. Then cut off the excess of the M8 stud on the vehicle side of the bracket and paint accordingly. Install door bracket and screw in strut studs. Simply fit the strut and that’s pretty much all there is to it.
It is relatively firm to close but it is a lot better than it slamming shut. On a fair gradient leaning down towards the passenger side the strut does hold the door open.
The Re-gas owner recommended putting a safety stop on the strut but so far I don’t see the need for it.
I would strongly recommend making a reinforcement plate for the strut pivot on the door. I made min from 3mm plate and riveted it to the door with stainless 6mm rivets. Without this the door panel flex ‘a lot’ on the hinge.

Announcement

Jamie's 2004 120 Build UP

Jamie's 2004 120 Build UP

Comment

Comment

Comment

Comment

Comment

Comment

Comment

Comment

Comment

Comment

Comment

Comment

Comment

Comment