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Athertons 2010 Prado 150 GXL D4D Build

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  • #91
    Originally posted by Atherton View Post
    EDIT: I've contacted Osbush about purchasing one of his EGR off modules, would love to hear from anyone who has got one of these fitted/ have had any horror stories- I'm particularly interested in the trim dial for the fuel and how much of a difference (if any) this makes to performance or economy.
    Cheers
    I cleaned the intake manifold and EGR, added fresh injectors, done the full block and added the Ozbush manual mapper about 18 months ago. No issues at all with the mapper, no error codes and the Prado runs fantastic it's quiet like a petrol, blows no smoke and gained some power in the process. The fuel trim feature i found only makes a small difference, i usually run it on -5 for every day use and when i tow the boat bump it up to +5 but im really happy with the Ozbush mapper.

    Originally posted by Atherton View Post
    A mate and I installed the blanking plate and brain box for it in around 45 minutes- Although most of the time was spent swearing and cursing trying to get at hard to reach bolts and the act of installing the plate itself requires smaller and more nimble hands than I possess (hence my mate helping).
    Sorry i wish i saw your post before. I'll mention it for anyone else who does this, but imho the best blanking plate to get is one that looks like my attachment. It has cut outs so you dont have to undo the EGR cooler bolts completely, you just loosen them to slot the plate in. But also that little tab hanging off you can bend that 90 degrees to the plate and then hold that tab with a pair of long needle nose pliers and you can slot the plate in and up from the bottom side of the EGR cooler pipe in just seconds and you dont need to get your hands anywhere near the confined space. Makes the job so simple.

    BTW the new bar looks fantastic, it totally transformed the look of the vehicle.

    Click image for larger version

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    2007 120 GXL D4D 6sp Man - My Rig https://www.pradopoint.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=24945&d=1487341201

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    • #92
      Thanks mate, yeah we didn't need to back the bolts on the EGR out fully- My mate had small enough hands that he was able to put it on as I levered the cooler out of the way with the use of a large screwdriver, but that little plate there looks like it'd make things a hell of a lot easier. Really not looking forward to cleaning the EGR as I can see it's a bugger of a job, but I'm keen to see the car run better and not turn oil into black snot within 5000kms.

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      • #93
        Scored a bargain when I was down in Brisbane this weekend- Picked up a near new Foxwing awning from an old fella who has used it once on his Troopy and due to health issues has been unable to get out as much as he'd like. I also got a set of Titan drawers at 4x4 supercentre because I'm sick of picking through my recovery gear to get to things (I know, I should just be more organised with packing). To my horror on removing my third-row seats I found an old Nintendo game (I'm sure someone’s child missed it dearly) a half-eaten cookie, a tin of lip-gloss, a lot of beach sand and, worse of all, a scary amount of rust for an eight year old car. I used a wire brush to knock the rust off and painted it over to seal it up. I can only assume water has made its way into the well of the third-row seats at some point and been able to escape. The beach sand seems not to have rusted it at all, so I can only conclude something else (water being the obvious culprit) has been the cause. The car to my knowledge hasn't been drowned in salt water at any point, and there's no evidence of rust anywhere else- aside from a light patina on certain items of unpainted metal under plastic trim. I'll upload photos when I'm done installing the drawers, but in the meantime would love to hear from anyone who has put some titans in their 150. I'm making up some spacers to make the front (drawer opening end) sit up to clear the exposed boot lip and wiring out of some old radiator mounts. I believe that 16mm is the correct height for the drawers to be spaced up to slide easily and clear all the obstructions.


        On another note (sort of as a long term review) I've come to realise that the Ozbush EGR blocker has caused my car to surge at times between 2000-2400 rpm. It's doesn't consistently do it and only seems to happen when under light to medium load. It's not bad and usually only happens for 2-3 seconds but it's something to keep in mind when purchasing- I've spoken to another person who has one on a Facebook group and he reported similar problems. If anyone knows of a fix any info would be appreciated and I'm keen to hear if anyone else has had similar experiences.

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        • #94
          Spent the weekend installing my drawers and foxwing- While the foxwing took under 5 minutes thanks to the ease of attachement to the Pioneer rack, the drawers proved a harder challenge. Thanks to a shortage of bolts of the reqired length to space the drawers up evenly at the back I had to drive the 90 minute round trip to the nearest bolt shop. On returning with the correct bolt (and a nutcert tool) I was able to finish the installation of the drawers. I've used the rib behind the second row seats as the forward mounting point and installed some spacers (30mm) on the back to get the required height for the drawers to sit level. Attached are some photos that were taken during the exercise. It's a fairly easy job, just tedious and the supa center drawers have razer sharp edges where they have been stamped and cut- I've got quite a few knicks and cuts over my hands and arms that attest to that fact.

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          • #95
            Hi Atherton. See you installed an OBD adapter and conntected to a chinese head unit to run Torque Pro. I have a 2012 GX and have installed a 9 inch android unit which I'm really pleased with but am having difficulty getting both obd adapters I have tried to talk to the ECU. One was a bluetooth and the other a USB one. I could have been dead unlucky and got two duds, but don't want to make it 3. Can you give me some more details on which adapter you went for - photo would be good - so I can see if I can get this thing to work. Was yours a straight plug in and setup - no additional coding? Was it bluetooth or USB? Did you have any issues getting it up and running and are there any issues, now you have had time to use it? Thanks in anticipation. Paul

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            • #96
              Hi mate, there's a few things to troubleshoot first.

              Make sure that the adaptor (bluetooth) isn't faulty by trying to pair it with your phone (android works fine with this, no idea with iPhones). If the phone works with the adaptor then the problem is with your headunit. Ensure there isn't any other bluetooth menus on your headunit (I know this sounds confusing). My headunit had 2 bluetooth menus, one located in the normal place in settings and the other as an app that could be launched. From memory you have to make sure the adaptor is paired in the bluetooth app before pairing it in torque.

              My experience with the dongle was that it took a bit of work to get it going (like a lot of cheap chinese stuff). I don't have my car handy to take a photo at the minute but it is just one of those generic blue ELM 327 adaptors from eBay. One thing I did notice about a mates adaptor was that one of the pins in the connector wasn't there (whereas mine did have a pin in that spot). I honestly think that with a lot of these types of things that it's a bit of a lucky dip as to what you end up with.

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              • #97
                Purchased a TJM locker today- Never really had intended to buy one as traction control is just so damn good, but for 850 inc compressor I thought I couldn't really go wrong. Has anyone had any experience as to whether this will affect traction control when offroading? Can't see why it would as neither wheel will be slipping if locked but thought I'd ask.

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                • #98
                  No issues, all good. Takes load off the brakes.
                  My 150 build - http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread.php?27423-A-Random-approach-to-a-Bluestorm-150-GXL-D4D-automatic

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                  • #99
                    Good to know, thanks mate.

                    Comment


                    • Hi Atherton,

                      I'm glad I stumbled across this build as it's very similar (down to the brands) to what I have in mind for my Prado 150 - obviously my research has paid off since we've ended up looking at roughly the same products! I do have a few questions for you, any answers will be greatly appreciated:
                      - with your Kenwood headunit were you able to still use the steering wheel controls and reverse camera?
                      - did you need anything else to fit the Runva winch to your ARB bar?
                      - any idea how often Autobarn do the 25% off? I was about to pick up one of these RhinoRack w/ backbone but might wait to see if I can get one at 25% off. Why did you go with 2100mm vs the 2128mm?
                      - any close ups of your LED mounting to roof rack? I agree the RR branded attachments are too much! perhaps take a look at 'channel nuts' from my searches it seems these could be a cheaper alternative than RR mounts (RR actually use channel nuts for some of their lighter weight accessories)
                      - if you could, please measure the side of the Pioneer platform (the flat bit where the RhinoRack logo is. I'm thinking to put a custom decal there and need to know the height.

                      Awesome build by the way - glad you went with the ARB bar :P

                      Comment


                      • Originally posted by Atherton View Post
                        Spent the weekend installing my drawers and foxwing- While the foxwing took under 5 minutes thanks to the ease of attachement to the Pioneer rack, the drawers proved a harder challenge. Thanks to a shortage of bolts of the reqired length to space the drawers up evenly at the back I had to drive the 90 minute round trip to the nearest bolt shop. On returning with the correct bolt (and a nutcert tool) I was able to finish the installation of the drawers. I've used the rib behind the second row seats as the forward mounting point and installed some spacers (30mm) on the back to get the required height for the drawers to sit level. Attached are some photos that were taken during the exercise. It's a fairly easy job, just tedious and the supa center drawers have razer sharp edges where they have been stamped and cut- I've got quite a few knicks and cuts over my hands and arms that attest to that fact.
                        Atherton what’s the blue sheet under your draws?

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                        • Originally posted by Pradosaur View Post

                          Atherton what’s the blue sheet under your draws?
                          Sound Proofing mate. I put it in there because I'd heard others say that without the seats being there more road noise was present in the cabin. About 20 bucks per sheet from memory (I think I needed 2 sheets).

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                          • Originally posted by calorific View Post
                            Hi Atherton,

                            I'm glad I stumbled across this build as it's very similar (down to the brands) to what I have in mind for my Prado 150 - obviously my research has paid off since we've ended up looking at roughly the same products! I do have a few questions for you, any answers will be greatly appreciated:
                            - with your Kenwood headunit were you able to still use the steering wheel controls and reverse camera?
                            - did you need anything else to fit the Runva winch to your ARB bar?
                            - any idea how often Autobarn do the 25% off? I was about to pick up one of these RhinoRack w/ backbone but might wait to see if I can get one at 25% off. Why did you go with 2100mm vs the 2128mm?
                            - any close ups of your LED mounting to roof rack? I agree the RR branded attachments are too much! perhaps take a look at 'channel nuts' from my searches it seems these could be a cheaper alternative than RR mounts (RR actually use channel nuts for some of their lighter weight accessories)
                            - if you could, please measure the side of the Pioneer platform (the flat bit where the RhinoRack logo is. I'm thinking to put a custom decal there and need to know the height.

                            Awesome build by the way - glad you went with the ARB bar :P
                            -Kenwood unit works with patch lead that connects it to the factory wiring harness- I'm pretty sure you can get a plug and play kit for the stereo to steering wheel controls, however I just cut and joined them into the headunits wiring.

                            -Runva winch bolted in but you have to tell them you intend on putting it into an ARB bar so they can give you the correct offset fairlead. The bracket kit to hide the winch is also sold separately (and like anything ARB it isn't cheap).

                            -No idea on the frequency of autobarn sales, but I have seen several since I last purchased my rack so it mustn't be all that rare. I did go the 2128mm rack, I don't think there is a 2100mm flat option- you either go the 1900 and something or the 2128. I've also made up some of my own channel nuts because as you say RR charge an arm and a leg for them. I'd rather not post a photo of my lightbar mounts as they are really rough haha- They're literally 2 bits of flat steel with a channel nut holding them to the rack and a hole drilled in the other end to mount the bracket that kings sell with the light. I'll have a look at measuring the height of the backbone when I get home- Not currently with my car at the minute.

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