Winniliss 09 Prado GXL TD

[toddy]

Thanks winniliss your a champ

[1coolbanana]

5 weeks to go for my suspension lift.

5 WEEKS.............you poor bugger

[winniliss]

5 weeks to go for my suspension lift.

[winniliss]

[QUOTE=toddy;309120]G'day winniliss, great writeup and top rig, it's coming along nicely...


The rubber still looks brand new and its been on the vehicle for 2 years.
I got the rubber from the rubber shop in Darwin. It is your standard vehicle door rubber for the old cars (Ford XY, Holden HQ etc). it has a c channel that presses onto the edge of the bull bar.

It has never come off, even after using the pressure washer on it. Just need to measure what you need and cut it to length. It has metal strips inside the C channel that allows it to be flexible but strong when it clips onto the bar.

I found a picture on google images of what the end looks like or similar to. Then you open it up in google, just click on the image to make it bigger.

http://www.google.com.au/imgres?imgu...%3Divns&itbs=1

[toddy]

G'day winniliss, great writeup and top rig, it's coming along nicely...

I've just had a sahara bar installed and was interested in your rubber mould to fill the gap to the panelling. How has it travelled since installed and what type of mould is it??? any info would be appreciated.

Thanks.

[winniliss]

Thank-you.
My wife has been driving the vehicle daily whilst I have been away. I checked everything today and all is good. I used Loc tight on most of the bolts so it should be good. My switches arrived the other day (Thanks MLC for telling us that website, 'custom rockers'), I will fit the manual over-ride switch for the battery isolator at the end of the month.

Cheers

Winston.

[winniliss]

Have you given it a go yet?
Nice job BTW.

How do you find operating the lever through the hole?

The red rope looks great too!

I am working remote and wont be able to use it till the end of October.

I can access the lever no worries. I could have rotated it another 2.5cms but it's not required.

Red goes faster.

[LostDingo2]

Nice work on the battery install

[1coolbanana]

Have you given it a go yet?
Nice job BTW.

How do you find operating the lever through the hole?

The red rope looks great too!

[winniliss]

Got the longer bolts for the offset fairlead (through Avenger who supplied the winch)



And a better picture of the winch controller plug (next to the drivers side headlight which I had to remove to install).

[1coolbanana]

Excellent job mate, the Avenger is right up there at the top of my list.
Like to hear what you think when you give it a proper go

[winniliss]

The winch was supplied with the wrong fairlead. It should have arrived today, thats why it's not on the bull bar.
I used industrial double sided foam/tape for the solenoid and the wireless remote box. The second picture shows the cable route along the bottom bar under the radiator.

Also the third picture along, I have mounted the socket on the bracket next to the headlight for the winch controll cable. You can just see the rubber boot. I used a hole saw.

I also found that if you require fine adjustment on the winch drum i.e. stowing the winch cable then use the cable winch controller and not the wireless remote.

[winniliss]

Whilst I was doing my dual battery install I also fitted my Kingone / Mako / Avenger 9500LBS winch.

Items used

Corrugated tube to protect cable
Heat shrink
Soldering iron
Insulated terminal crimper
Purchased 23A battery from Jaycar for $2 for the wireless remote
Also require offset Fairlead (winch cable guide) if using an ARB deluxe bar. Also require longer bolts so that the fairlead can be bolted to the winch mounting holes at the bottom.

First remove the end cap on the winch using hex, unscrew the bolts and rotate assembley anti-clock wise 90deg



Remove centre bash blate on bull bar and with assistance (from your 17 year old son) install the winch, starting with the winch in a vertical position under the bull bar (free spool level on top), feed it in closest to the chassis rail on the drivers side (winch won't go straight in by just lifting it up from the bottom).

Locate a suitable spot for your solenoid box. I removed the solenoid from the box and mounted it under the thermo fan.

Connect all the cables. I pre installed the corrugated conduit and heat shrink on the battery cables first

[winniliss]

Drill a hole where it mounts next to the head light.



Mount battery isolator. I used one of the radiator bolts and supplied one that I had in the shed. I used a hole saw to drill through the plastic trim. It is advisable to mount the isolator as close as possilble to the starter battery due to voltage drop.



Battery installed



I used loc tight that doesn't require heat to remove on all the bolts

I ran the cable along the the bar that is directly under the radiator. It is a shorter run than along the fire wall.

The only thing left is to fit a switch (from custom rockers http://www.customrockers.com.au/epag...Shops/cucu3348 ) for the 'start assist feature'.

[winniliss]

Insert bolt and right angle bracket



Bolt in battery tray. Insert all bolts first before tighting as I found the holes don't line up perfectly.



Drill (using a drill bit that just slides through the hole ) two holes that allows you to bolt the battery tray to the wheel arch. Install the bolts. I used the counter sunk bolts that where supplied.