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NSW: Glen's first major recovery!

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  • #16
    Originally posted by LiveFreeAndRoam View Post
    Curiously, what tools are needed to remove the front axle?
    I think he just cut the inner CV boot clamp and pulled the axle and boot out of the inner CV cup.
    [B]Declan[/B]: [SIZE=1]1997 GXL 4.5 Auto 80 series on [B][COLOR="#FF0000"]LPG[/COLOR][/B], ARB bullbar, 2" OME lift, 32" MTZ, GME UHF, rear ARB locker, Kaymar spare wheel carrier[/SIZE]
    [B]PLANNED[/B]: [SIZE=1]3 or 4" suspension lift, 2" body lift (maybe), winch, 35" MTZ + roadies, front locker, sliders, cylinder head rebuilt for [B][COLOR="#FF0000"]LPG[/COLOR][/B], Garret [COLOR="#4499ff"][B]Turbocharger[/B][/COLOR][/SIZE]

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    • #17
      Originally posted by glen_ep View Post
      I'm amazed at the damage as well!! It's not surprising to break a CV in that situation, but all the previous CV's failed at the joints, not the actual shaft. I'm just glad it was the CV not any other driveline components, which is why I'll keep using normal CV's. In this case it was a Repco one, which have a thicker shaft than standard, but who knows how their strength compares.
      You might want to keep an eye on the front diff carrier bearings. Because the front crown wheel and pinion are reverse cut, you would have been driving on the coast side of the crown wheel teeth which would put a lot more thrust load than normal on one side of the diff carrier.

      Its lucky you have Nitro gears. I reckon the stock crown wheel would have given up before the axle snapped, under these conditions.
      [B]Declan[/B]: [SIZE=1]1997 GXL 4.5 Auto 80 series on [B][COLOR="#FF0000"]LPG[/COLOR][/B], ARB bullbar, 2" OME lift, 32" MTZ, GME UHF, rear ARB locker, Kaymar spare wheel carrier[/SIZE]
      [B]PLANNED[/B]: [SIZE=1]3 or 4" suspension lift, 2" body lift (maybe), winch, 35" MTZ + roadies, front locker, sliders, cylinder head rebuilt for [B][COLOR="#FF0000"]LPG[/COLOR][/B], Garret [COLOR="#4499ff"][B]Turbocharger[/B][/COLOR][/SIZE]

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      • #18
        Sounds like an EPIC effort mate, good work!!!
        2014 D4D 150 GXL Automatic - CHARCOAL

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        • #19
          Thanks everyone for your comments!

          Originally posted by williade View Post
          I think he just cut the inner CV boot clamp and pulled the axle and boot out of the inner CV cup.
          Yes, that's right. All I needed was a wire clipper and rags. The shaft was easily removed straight down between the lower arms, and both ends of the CV axle are still in the car. However, this is only because the outer section snapped - if it were the inner, I would have had to perform a full replacement, or close to it. From now on I'm going to keep a spare outer axle/joint in the car (just the outer section for the hub assembly)... so I'll shouldn't have to muck around with a full axle replacement on the trail.

          LFaR,
          Tools required for a full replacement: Jack, flat screwdriver and hammer to remove hub cap, breaker bar + socket for axle nut (size can vary), socket set (for wheel nuts, brake caliper bracket, brake line bracket, bolts holding the spindle to the lower ball joint), zip ties (to support brakes), crow bar or cold chisel (to pop inner cup out of diff), replacement CV axle, and everything required for a front diff oil change (allen key fitting, oil, pump). I think that's it!?


          Originally posted by williade View Post
          You might want to keep an eye on the front diff carrier bearings. Because the front crown wheel and pinion are reverse cut, you would have been driving on the coast side of the crown wheel teeth which would put a lot more thrust load than normal on one side of the diff carrier.

          Its lucky you have Nitro gears. I reckon the stock crown wheel would have given up before the axle snapped, under these conditions.
          When I started reversing my main concern was the diffs for that reason, and the transfer, so I kept it steady. When the big snap occurred, I was prepared for the worst... but seeing the twisted CV boot provided a little relief!!

          I'll inspect the diff oil carefully when I change the entire shaft, hopefully this weekend.. *crosses fingers*
          glen_ep - engineered, 4" lift, 33" 255/85R16, lockers, 4.88 ratios www.pradopoint.com.au/showthread.php?17237 www.youtube.com/user/glenep www.fb.com/groups/ToyotaPrado90

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          • #20
            Well I know you normally dont need it .....but its always better to have a company

            Cheers
            MAX
            90 series, Air lockers , 2'' TOugh DOG Adjustable's (very happy so far), TJM Bar , 9500 lbs OX winch Plasma rope,TX3100 UHF radio, Mickey's MTZ , ARB Air compressor,

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            • #21
              Hi Glen,
              lucky your handy with the mechanical side of 4x4 driving, not sure if i could change a cv at home never mind in the bush.
              Just out of interest how much is a replacement cv & do you think it would be wise to always carry a spare when off road?

              Cheers,
              Steve Johno
              D4D 09 OME Suspension/ARB Winchbar/Safari Snorkel/IPF Spotties/Cooper ST Maxx Tyres/9000LB Tigerz11 Winch with Dynema Rope/GME Remote head UHF/Sheepskin Seat Covers.....Next on list Dual Battery Sys...In Dash GPS...Rear Diff Lock

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              • #22
                Originally posted by CaLLaN 52 View Post
                Hi Glen,
                lucky your handy with the mechanical side of 4x4 driving, not sure if i could change a cv at home never mind in the bush.
                Just out of interest how much is a replacement cv & do you think it would be wise to always carry a spare when off road?

                Cheers,
                Steve Johno
                Cheers Johno,
                Yup, this is the exact reason I've been doing as much mechanical work on my car as possible, so I can deal with break downs on the trails. I think anyone you offroads regularly should do the same if they can.

                On the 90 you're looking at $130 - $170 for a reconditioned original, $220 for a brand new aftermarket, or around $800 for a genuine. I actually keep a spare CV in the car on all trips, and all the tools - but in this case, by pure luck of where it broke, I was able to perform a much quicker fix and drive home
                glen_ep - engineered, 4" lift, 33" 255/85R16, lockers, 4.88 ratios www.pradopoint.com.au/showthread.php?17237 www.youtube.com/user/glenep www.fb.com/groups/ToyotaPrado90

                Comment


                • #23
                  Originally posted by CaLLaN 52 View Post
                  Hi Glen,
                  lucky your handy with the mechanical side of 4x4 driving, not sure if i could change a cv at home never mind in the bush.
                  Just out of interest how much is a replacement cv & do you think it would be wise to always carry a spare when off road?

                  Cheers,
                  Steve Johno
                  Hmm, do you mean; would it be wise for other Prado owners to carry a spare? For most people; no need, but if you've broken one before or have a front locker and play in rocks, then yes.
                  glen_ep - engineered, 4" lift, 33" 255/85R16, lockers, 4.88 ratios www.pradopoint.com.au/showthread.php?17237 www.youtube.com/user/glenep www.fb.com/groups/ToyotaPrado90

                  Comment


                  • #24
                    Hi Glen,

                    I do like a few challenging tracks now & then, but in all my time off Roading, I've never done a cv, I've had a series 40/60/80 Disco 2 $ 2 Prado's maybe ive been very lucky, when I watch Roothy on his 4WD Action DVD he seems to break a few.
                    Hope I haven't Put a jinks on me now. He he!
                    D4D 09 OME Suspension/ARB Winchbar/Safari Snorkel/IPF Spotties/Cooper ST Maxx Tyres/9000LB Tigerz11 Winch with Dynema Rope/GME Remote head UHF/Sheepskin Seat Covers.....Next on list Dual Battery Sys...In Dash GPS...Rear Diff Lock

                    Comment

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