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TRIP REPORT: Central & Western Australia

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  • TRIP REPORT: Central & Western Australia

    Well, since we are currently couped up in our old stomping of Perth WA, experiencing absolutely crap weather, I thought I should start doing a report of our adventures to date of our trip.

    As I only had 9 weeks off work, we had to cram a fair bit in, but I must say to date it has been a wonderful experience. The sheer beauty of our country easily gives way to the many kilometres on the road.



    This was our intended route plan and we have pretty much sticked to it.

    So here go's

    WEEK ONE

    With the Prado and camper all packed up we departed home south of Hobart and headed for Launceston. I was really suprised to find how much space we had left available. I deliberately did not want to much in the back of the car for good vision. We had the young bloke sitting in the very back with the two teenage girls on the back seat. I was a bit worried we were not taking enough stuff, but with the biggest part of the trip over, we have not missed anything.

    Girls have an overhead DVD player and the young bloke has his PSP and portable DVD in the back with his own power source there to keep things charged. We bought the girls the complete series of 'McLeods Daughters' - well over 300 hours of viewing.



    Due to the high cost of the ferry, I actually flew the wife and two kids to Melbourne(Frequent Flyer points) while myself and one daughter went on the ferry. Dropped the wife of at my sisters who would bring them to the airport in the morning and headed to the ferry.

    Uneventfull trip across Bass Strait and was off the ferry very quickly only to be greeted by a huge Melbourne fog at 7.30am. Quickly rang the missus to see if she actually flew out due to the fog. No problems so off to find Melbourne airport in the fog and peak hour. Good fun I must say!

    Got in the wrong lane in Melbourne Airport and had to do a complete circiut of the multi storey carpark with the camper. #$@% head!!!

    Anyway picked the missus and remaining kids up and we were off heading for Swan Hill via Kilmore, Heathcote,Euchea and Kerang. We had travelled in the area previously, but I always get enjoyment out of the Murray region.




    Setup the camper in the Big 4 Caravan park in Swan Hill and enjoyed a good first up nights sleep as the next few days were long drives.

    We were on the road by 9am and arrived in Broken Hill around 4pm. First real taste of the outback today. This is where I wanted to be. After another good night in the Broken Hill City Caravan Park we headed for the Flinders Ranges with Wilpena Pound being our target.

    Stopped and experienced Magnetic Hill half way between Petersborough and Orroroo. This has a slight incline and if you put you car in neutral, turn off the engine and take your foot off the brake your car actually rolls up the slight incline. Worked a treat with the Prado and Camper trailer - thought they might be a bit heavy. Kids were fascinated.

    Arrived at Wilpena Pound around 4.30pm and setup in an awesome camping spot. We we going to camp here for two days to get a bit of a taste of the Flinders.




    Overnight it bucketed with rain. Lucky we were staying here for two days. Enjoyed a hearty breakfast each morning from the campfire as well as a couple of great camp oven dinners in the evenings.




    Did a number of drives during the day - what can I say. The Flinders Ranges is something else. Just spectacular country. Thorougly enjoyed and we will be back to explore a lot more. The where actually filming a film in Wilpena Pound while we were there. Think it called 'Road Train'. Believe it goes along the theme of Wolfe Creek for those that have watch that film. To be released early next year I think.

    So after two great days in the Flinders we headed for Marree and the Oodnadatta Track.



    Eyre Yacht Club House in Marree.

    Let the tyre pressure down to 30 psi allround and headed up the track ( a wide gravel road really) for Coward Springs. Road conditions between Marree and Cowards Springs were very good - constantly had to check the speed.

    Arriving at Coward Springs we set up camp and I went for a drive to collect some firewood. The camp ranger used to offer the firewood but said it was getting to much for him so he told us just to head 5 k's north up the track and collect some old sleeper remains. Excellent firewood I must say.



    Sunset here was awesome. Note the jet flying overhead.




    After tea we all enjoyed a dip in the springs.



    Sunrise in the deserts - always spectacular



    Today we headed for William Creek. Only 75 K's up the road. We had intended to head to Oodanatta but had heard some crap reports about staying there. Boy was that the right decision.
    We set up camp in the camp ground across the road from the pub and then headed off for Haligans Bay on Lake Eyre. Boy was this a rough track- 60 odd k's of sheer corrugation. Anyway we made it to Lake Eyre and walked to the water and enjoyed the experience. The kids can now say they have been to Lake Eyre with water in it.

    Returned to camp and enjoyed a great meal at the pub as well as the local atmosphere. What a great place - a must stay overnight place.









    So that's the end of week one.

    johnv

  • #2
    Re: TRIP REPORT: Central & Western Australia

    Nice one John. Some great places you have visited so far. I love visiting Echuca. That whole area is really magical to me but it seems to only get better. You may have bump into or passed a few other PPs along the Oodnadatta as it seems there are a few up there recently. Look forward to more.
    [COLOR=#000080]Nick[/COLOR]
    [URL="http://pradopoint.com/viewtopic.php?f=38&t=5308&sid=bcbebadd30673f1ac72047e6e8a93d79"]2006 TD GXL Evolution & Trips[/URL]
    [URL=http://www.fuelly.com/driver/Schaffer/prado][IMG]http://www.fuelly.com/smallsig-metric/45547.png[/IMG][/URL]
    [img]http://i929.photobucket.com/albums/mm286/Schaffer71/Avatar/CooperCreek.jpg[/img] [img]http://i929.photobucket.com/albums/mm286/Schaffer71/Avatar/BendlebyRanges.jpg[/img]

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    • #3
      Re: TRIP REPORT: Central & Western Australia

      Good write up so far John. I look forward to reading more of your travels in due course, especially how you went along the Gibb River Beef road.

      Cheers :wink: 8)
      [B][SIZE=4]ntp
      [/SIZE][/B][COLOR=#000040][B][SIZE=1]Love the Outback............. Love my Prado.[/SIZE][/B][/COLOR]
      [I][SIZE=1][URL="http://i520.photobucket.com/albums/w328/ntpryce/Picture23.png"]My Prado[/URL][/SIZE][/I], [I][SIZE=1][URL="http://i520.photobucket.com/albums/w328/ntpryce/MyExtras.png"]My Extras[/URL][/SIZE][/I]
      [B]4wdriving First Party[/B][COLOR=#0000ff] - [/COLOR][B][COLOR=#0000ff]dןǝɥ ɹoɟ ןןɐɔ 'sıɥʇ pɐǝɹ uɐɔ noʎ ɟı[/COLOR][/B]

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      • #4
        Re: TRIP REPORT: Central & Western Australia

        Wow looks like an awesome trip there

        GOOD report so far. looking forward to seeing the rest. enjoy your trip guys and stay safe

        Jas
        [i]Ciao,
        Kev & Jas[/i]

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        • #5
          Re: TRIP REPORT: Central & Western Australia

          W.A. an awesome spot for the Annual GTG... simply stunning :mrgreen:
          [B]My 2007 D4D [COLOR=darkred]Flinders Red[/COLOR] Buildup[/B] - [URL="http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread.php?13590-Golly-s-Flinders-Red-D4D-GXL"] HERE[/URL] :cool:
          [B][COLOR=navy]K[COLOR=red]D[/COLOR][/COLOR][COLOR=darkorange]L[/COLOR] Designs[/B] (Designer for the 2009 GTG Banner) - [URL="http://kdldesigns.net/index.php/banners"] HERE[/URL] ;)
          ,

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          • #6
            Re: TRIP REPORT: Central & Western Australia

            Fantastic write-up and pics John. Looks like an absolutely awesome trip.

            Cheers
            Chippy

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            • #7
              Re: TRIP REPORT: Central & Western Australia

              Outstanding report. Like I said to ntpryce, makes me want to get out there.
              Looking forward to the next leg.
              Cheers
              Andy
              Black 2003, TD, GXL Prado

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              • #8
                Re: TRIP REPORT: Central & Western Australia

                Well, we just arrived home today after 8 weeks on the road. What can I say!!! Just absolutely fantastic.

                The Prado performed perfectly after driving 17,126 klms door to door. Not one problem. Not a single flat tyre either considering we did nearly 3,000 klms of gravel road/track driving. The Challenge Camper performed just as well. No flat tyres either.

                Now the cleaning starts.

                If you are thinking about an extended trip 'GO DO IT' Honestly, you will never regret it.

                Will continue the trip report over the next weeks.

                Bugger, work next week.

                johnv

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                • #9
                  Re: TRIP REPORT: Central & Western Australia

                  Good to hear you're all back safe and sound John.

                  I'm really looking forward to the rest of the report and pics ........ maybe you'll have to take another week off work to keep your PP audience happy :lol: :lol: :lol:

                  Cheers
                  Chippy

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                  • #10
                    Re: TRIP REPORT: Central & Western Australia

                    WEEK TWO

                    Due to the early morning flights over Lake Eyre, many campers were up very early. If you can't beat them, just join them we thought so we packed up early and continued up the Oodnadatta Track. Our goal for today was Marla.

                    Track between William Creek and Oodnadatta was the most ordinary of the whole track. Very rocky and corrugated. Of all the ruins we stopped at, Algebuckina Bridge would have to be our favourite. The engineering of the bridge all them years ago in the middle of nowhere is just a marvel. Visited the waterhole Ntpryce camped at near the bridge as well. To early in the morning for us to camp, but it's in the memory for next time.



                    Oodnadatta itself was dissapointing for me. Probably expected something like William Creek, but it's far from it. I originally had planned to stay here, but decided on William Creek instead. Boy where we glad we did that.

                    It started raining about 100 kilometres out on the track as we were heading to Marla. Firstly just drizzle, but ended up quite heavy. The grader had been working near Marla so the road ended up quite muddy.



                    As it was raining steadily by now, we fueled up in Marla and decided to push on. Left a big heap of mud near the bowsers - it was just dropping of the car and camper.The rain helped wash a lot of the mud of the car and camper as well driving up the road. We reached Kulgera and decided to book a cabin for the night as it was still raining. Kids had take-away while me and the missus enjoyed a nice meal at the pub. Beautiful modern cabin so a nice hot shower and sleep was had by all.

                    Next day was very overcast as we head for Yulara. Set up camp in the only camp ground and went for a quick drive to the rock. It is truly spectacular. The 2.5 days we were there, we did not have one sunrise or sunset on the rock due to cloud cover, but water on the rock made up for that.




                    On return to camp, I thought PP PGT had started. Four out of five vehicles camped along side us were Prado's. That's us in the middle.



                    We actully enjoyed Kata Tjuta(The Olgas) better than Ayers Rock. Just thought they were nicer to look at. The walk up the gorge was just great as the creek was running.



                    I did not get to climb Ayers Rock as it was closed. Much to the wifes relief. Think she thought I'd have a heart attack.

                    Word of warning. Never forget to bring your own beer and wine into Yulara. We had run out on the Oodnadatta and failed to buy any on the way in. $33.00 for a six pack of Carlton Mids was a bit rude I thought. You are not aloud to buy cartons. Expensive few days for us.

                    From Yularu we headed for Alice Springs. Still rainy and cold. On this day the temp didn't get above 10 degrees. Set up camp in The McDonnell Range Caravan Park. I guess a number of you are familiar with this park now. Very well run and a great spot to camp. We had a great spot with our own ensuite again. Plenty to do for the kids.



                    We had dinner that night at the Overlander. A great place and great food. Wife had the Camel Mignon while I had a great ribeye on the bone with bush pepper sauce. Next day we caught up with all the washing, Missus and girls went shopping and I washed the remaining mud off the car. Still very cold and damp.
                    This is all we could see of the Ranges for the two days we were there.



                    We then headed for up the Stuart Highway for Tennant Creek. Stopped at the Devils Marble for a look. A lot of caravanners pulled up for the night. Would be good for a cheap overnighter. Camp fees do apply.



                    After a simple camp in the local caravan park in Tennant Creek we headed for Daly Waters. Got there early afternoon luckily as by mid afternoon the campground was full. What a great spot. Weather had warmed up considerably since The Alice - 25 degrees now. Could have stayed here for days. The atmosphere is just great. Kids swam in the pool right next to the bar. Happy missus, happy kids - cold beer - what more do you want.






                    Young bloke had a go go at ten pin bowling on the main street.



                    Enjoyed the Beef & Barra that evening as well the the 'Chookman" entertainment' Missus even got up on stage after being called up to be part of a joke. We all had a ball. Place was packed. Slept well that night - I wonder why!

                    That's week Two. Next we head upto Darwin


                    johnv

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                    • #11
                      Re: TRIP REPORT: Central & Western Australia

                      WEEK THREE

                      After a good nights rest in Daly Waters, we packed up early and headed for Darwin.

                      Stopped at Bitter Springs for a look. Enjoyed a swim in the crystal clear waters of the warm springs.



                      Arrived in Darwin around 4.00pm . We had previously booked a cabin for three nights in the Hidden Valley Tourist Park to have a break from camping. Kids really appreciated this as we had a TV for the first time in weeks. It was a beautiful spot amonst the palm trees.

                      Met up with 'ntpryce' in Darwin. It was good to catch up and meet you David.

                      Prado went in for a service at Toyota. We spent the day in the city. Toyota took most of the day - were very busy I think. Boy you miss your car when it's your home for nine weeks.

                      Amongst the many touristy things we did, the crocodiles at Adelaide River was one of the highlights for the kids.




                      Enjoyed a great dinner at the restuarants on the wharf one evening. Just magic sitting there in the balmy weather enjoying the sunset.

                      Even got to enjoy a fireworks display. Think it was for a Greek festival in town that week.



                      Well after three great days in Darwin it was time to move on. We will be back here one day again. We really enjoyed Darwin - reminded us of Bali in a funny sort of way. Have already been checking for cheap flights there.

                      We drove back down to Katherine and headed down the Victoria Highway for Kununarra. We overnighted in Timber Creek where we had our first experience with cane toads. They were everywhere in the caravan park. So close to WA and the Kimberleys. They are going to be hard to stop.

                      The drive from Katherine to Kununarra is spectacular. Really enjoyed the ever changing scenery.


                      One of the first boab's we saw. Man, you can photograph these trees for ever.

                      Victoria River where the old highway used to cross.

                      More boabs.

                      Downstream of the Ord River Dam.

                      We set up camp in the Ivanhoe Village Caravan Park. What a great park this is as well. Resort style pool which the kids really enjoyed.

                      Spent some time at Ivanhoe crossing. Try me luck for a Barra to no avail. Gets very busy every evening with tourists and locals fishing.

                      Drove over it many times.

                      Through Geocaching for the young bloke, we found this beautiful little waterhole just out of town.

                      Two days in Kununarra is once again not enough. We enjoyed the trip to Wyndham by driving the back way through station country. Spent a bit of time as well stocking up and preparing ourselves for the next 8 days of travelling the Gibb River Road.

                      Next time week four - Gibb River Road.


                      johnv

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                      • #12
                        Re: TRIP REPORT: Central & Western Australia

                        Finally have a chance to update further.

                        WEEK FOUR

                        Well today was the day we had been really looking forward to. The start of the Gibb River Road. We did some last minute groceries and fuelled up in Kununarra, before heading to the start of the road.

                        Approaching the Gibb turnoff, what vehicle has just finished the road? No PP sticker though.


                        Aired the car and camper down to 28 PSI all round. Worked out really well for us. Seemed to travel really comfortable on the corrugations at 70 – 80 kph. Plus we had no tyre issue the whole road.

                        First stop for two nights was El Questro. Heard differing opinions about this place that it was too expensive and to touristy. Boy was we glad we decided to find out for ourselves. I found El Questro one on the nicer places on the Gibb with all different types of scenery in the one place.

                        We originally chose one of the private campsites along the river a short distance from the Homestead, but on inspection we decided to go back to the Homestead and camp in the campground. With a wife and two teenage daughters I was over ruled. Must say in the end I didn’t mind as the private camp was a struggle to get to the river and the pit toilet was a way off. We ended up with a great riverside camp in the Homestead campgrounds. Close to showers and the bar.


                        The afternoon was spent driving to the lookout over the Pentecost River valley, Homestead etc. Quite a steep drive up but it sure was worth it.




                        We then headed to Explosion Gorge on the Chamberlain River. Rough track in, with some awesome water crossings, but well worth the effort for the end result.


                        The next morning we headed for Zebedee Springs. You can only access these hot springs before 12pm each day as the afternoons are reserves for tour groups and I assume the elite guests of El Questro.


                        The water was absolutely beautiful. Quite warm and crystal clear.


                        After spending a few hours in the springs, we headed of to El Questro Gorge to do the walk in.
                        Once again, a narrow gorge with beautiful scenery. You can just never get enough of it.




                        Halfway up the gorge is a beautiful swimming hole. Crystal clear very cold water - still refreshing after the walk in.


                        Can’t get enough of these Boab trees!

                        After lunch back at camp, I took the two youngest kids for a drive to Pigeon Hole on the Pentecost River NW of the homestead to try my luck for a barra. Quite a challenging track in. Actually lost one of the rear mudflaps after coming stuck on a rocky section. Noticed it missing back at camp and had to go back and try and retrieve it. Luckily I suspected it broke of at the rocky section. There it was sitting in the middle of the track.


                        No luck with the fishing, but saw a few freshwater crocs.

                        After another great nights camping in El Questro, the next morning we leisurely packed up and headed for Home Valley Station. This was only a 50 kilometre drive for the day so we were in no hurry.

                        Crossing the Pentecost River was a breeze. Water was about 500mm deep in places. Actually drove back across after dropping the missus off so she could video us crossing the river.



                        Set up camp at Home Valley Station in the camping area. What an oasis! They have spent a lot of money doing this place up. We planned to spend two nights here – kids very happy with that.

                        Swimming pool – kids thought they were back in Bali!


                        Dusty Bar and Grill on Home Valley. One of the best steaks of the trip. Rib Eye with Bush pepper sauce. Entertainment is provided as well. First night was an aboriginal singer and the second a didgeridoo show. Very enjoyable.


                        Went for a drive in the afternoon and explored the station a bit.

                        View for one of the station tracks looking towards the Pentecost ranges.


                        One of the gorges on the station – can’t recall the name.


                        Two eldest girls went horse riding with two aboriginal stockmen. Both really enjoyed the experience as they love horses.


                        Second night we went to the Pentecost River lookout just up the road from Home valley to view the sunset up against the Pentecost Ranges.

                        Sitting there in the balmy 32 degrees with compulsory bottle of white and snackies cold from the Engel – what more would you want!




                        We packed up early next morning as we needed to do 275 kilometres in order to reach Manning Gorge at a decent hour to get a good camp site.

                        Every corner you turned there was some new scenery to admire. We travelled at around 70 – 80kph quite easily as the road was generally in really good condition.

                        Most water crossings still had water in them. Another reason we were glad we did the trek in early June.




                        Typical of the Gibb River Road conditions for us with one on the many eagles we saw enjoying road kill.


                        We stocked up with some supplies at Mount Barnett Roadhouse before heading down the track to Manning Gorge campground. We arrived early afternoon so we decided to walk straight to the gorge and set up when we got back – hoping it would be a bit cooler.

                        To get to Manning Gorge you can take a short cut by swimming across the river to the start of the track instead of walking around. With 35 degree heat why wouldn’t you swim? Polystyrene boxes are supplied to paddle you valuables across the river.


                        Manning Gorge. Quiet a challenging walk in, especially with the young bloke, but the scenery makes it all worth while.



                        The swim across the river was most welcoming prior to set up camp for the evening and cooking dinner over the fire.

                        We always generally collected a bit of firewood when driving for the night’s camp fire. Always found the creek crossing the best place to collect. Once again as we were travelling the road early in the season, each crossing had plenty of clean driftwood lying about.

                        I find a campfire is a must when out camping like this.

                        We had free entertainment that evening provided by a group of young guys playing the didgeridoo and another group deciding to join in with bongo drums.

                        Next morning we leisurely packed up while the kids had another swim. Today’s destination was to be Bells Gorge Campground. Only 105 kilometres today. Fuel partially up at Mount Barnett Roadhouse just to make sure we got to the end of the GGR. Price 194.9 cents per litre for ULP. Ouch

                        After a coffee and ice-cream stop at Imintji Roadhouse we continued to Bells Gorge to arrive late morning. Campground was still quite empty so we had the pick of the spots in the non generator area. Most campgrounds on the GGR have separate areas. Sometimes still a bit close to each other.

                        Headed further up the track to the Bells Gorge carpark and walked to the falls.

                        Top of Bell Gorge.



                        The falls from below


                        Looking down the gorge


                        Once the next morning we took our time as Windjana Gorge was only 140 kilometres down the road.
                        Heading towards the Napier Ranges on Napier Downs Station.

                        Just finished reading the book called ‘Diamonds and Dust’, the story of Sheryl McCorry who ran Napier Downs Station and many others in the Kimberley’s. So it was interesting driving through this area. A great read.

                        Set up camp in the campgrounds at Windjana Gorge and headed into the gorge.


                        Young bloke admiring a freshie!


                        Walls in the gorge just had stunning colours



                        After the gorge we drove down to Tunnel Creek. Roughest of all the roads we travelled in the Kimberley’s. Tunnel was really enjoyed by the kids. Walking with torches through total darkness in ankle deep water.


                        As we drove back, we unfortunately came across an elderly couple stopped in the middle of the road. The suspension supports on their so called off road camper trailer had broken off on one side. I had all the spares for trailer repairs except a welder. Not much I could do for them. Makes me cranky to see the quality of this so called off road camper being sold(Have forgotten the brand). Main frame of the trailer would have been lucky to be 2mm box steel. Spring brackets were 6mm weld straight to the 2mm box. Completely ripped out. Advised them to leave the camper on the side of the road and head to Windjana Gorge and ask the Ranger to call Derby. Flat tray truck came next morning to pick the camper up and return to Derby. Not a cheap exercise. Obviously checked my camper back at camp and was comforted by all the reinforcing around the suspension brackets. Glad I’ve got a Challenge Camper Trailer.

                        Beautiful sunset at Windjana Campground



                        Next we were headed for Derby. The end of our Gibb River Road adventure. While we didn’t see all off it, at least we have left something for next time. We’ll be back sooner rather than later. As we hit the bitumen for the last few kilometres into Derby my wife and I looked at each other and said “shall we turn around and go back again”


                        The end of the road!!!

                        Next time Broome and Coral Bay

                        johnv

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                        • #13
                          Re: TRIP REPORT: Central & Western Australia

                          Great pics and story there John. I love this area and your trip report makes me want to go back soon. Thanks for sharing. :wink: 8)
                          [B][SIZE=4]ntp
                          [/SIZE][/B][COLOR=#000040][B][SIZE=1]Love the Outback............. Love my Prado.[/SIZE][/B][/COLOR]
                          [I][SIZE=1][URL="http://i520.photobucket.com/albums/w328/ntpryce/Picture23.png"]My Prado[/URL][/SIZE][/I], [I][SIZE=1][URL="http://i520.photobucket.com/albums/w328/ntpryce/MyExtras.png"]My Extras[/URL][/SIZE][/I]
                          [B]4wdriving First Party[/B][COLOR=#0000ff] - [/COLOR][B][COLOR=#0000ff]dןǝɥ ɹoɟ ןןɐɔ 'sıɥʇ pɐǝɹ uɐɔ noʎ ɟı[/COLOR][/B]

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                          • #14
                            Re: TRIP REPORT: Central & Western Australia

                            Thanks John. I've been thinking about a trip up NW of WA and was looking over maps of the Gibb River Road only yesterday. It's really wetting my appetite but I've heard it's getting to easier and easier. How much of it was sealed? I saw some web site yesterday which mentioned the western end is sealed?

                            EDIT: Actually I just found out it's only about the first 75kms:
                            The Gibb River Road, WA - Route Description From Derby To Kununurra
                            [COLOR=#000080]Nick[/COLOR]
                            [URL="http://pradopoint.com/viewtopic.php?f=38&t=5308&sid=bcbebadd30673f1ac72047e6e8a93d79"]2006 TD GXL Evolution & Trips[/URL]
                            [URL=http://www.fuelly.com/driver/Schaffer/prado][IMG]http://www.fuelly.com/smallsig-metric/45547.png[/IMG][/URL]
                            [img]http://i929.photobucket.com/albums/mm286/Schaffer71/Avatar/CooperCreek.jpg[/img] [img]http://i929.photobucket.com/albums/mm286/Schaffer71/Avatar/BendlebyRanges.jpg[/img]

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                            • #15
                              Re: TRIP REPORT: Central & Western Australia

                              Wow John great pics and writeup mate.
                              The Kimberly is on our must see list for sure.
                              Thanks for the insight to your adventure.
                              Cheers Troy.
                              SOUTH AUSTRALIA GATEWAY TO THE OUTBACK!
                              2003 GXL V6 AUTO 120 CHAMPAGNE MICA [DUNE]
                              LIST OF ACCESSORIES GROWING, WISH LIST SLOWLY DECLINING

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