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We just got back from a couple of weeks up in the Pilbara, visiting Rudall River and Carawine Gorge. It was our second trip to the same locations in 2 years and what a difference 2 years makes. We didnt take a lot of photos this time round but I'll try and include some "old" and "new" ones for comparison.
This time it was dry and hot and the flies almost drove us insane. Most nights we slept on top of our sleeping bags and some days it reached the mid 30s.
In 2007 our first night was spent at Bilyuin Pool about 70kms north of Meekatharra. Heres a shot of Bilyuin in 2007
And one in 2009 (it was a sign of things to come)
After camping at Newman we headed off for Rudall River, topping up with fuel at Jigalong. Like all good people, those at Jigalong are West Coast Eagles supporters. Unfortunately, their footy ground isnt much better than Subi either.
Heading into the park we soon came across Rudall River, not much to see really.
The aim of this trip was to go to some of the places we didnt visit last time, so our first camp site in the park was supposed to be at Jarra Pool. I had the co ordinates in my gps, but being new to Oziexplorer I hadnt quite worked out how to set it to navigate to a given way point. We headed off down the road seemingly passing all these permanent water holes without seeing a single drop of water. I was starting to get a bit worried and frustrated. We drove round and round in circles looking for Jarra Pool, finally giving up and camping beside a dry creek bed.
While contemplating my lack of success in finding Jarra Pool I was reading the latest edition of Western 4WDriver which had a story about Rudall River. Sitting there looking at the pictures I looked up and noticed that the tree in front of me looked remarkably like the one in the photo, so up I got and had a closer look. It seemed we had found Jarra Pool after all, but its permanent water supply wasnt permanent this year.
A rather dry Jarra Pool.
In one of the trees is a plaque placed there by the Ives brothers in 1970 while retracing the steps of their grandfather many years earlier. I had met Rob Ives several years later so I was keen to see if I could find the plaque. His brother Noel met a rather untimely end, camping in his swag on a railway line with one of his mates in 1975. You can guess the rest.
Next on the agenda was Hanging Rock. Unfortunately I wasnt so lucky with my navigation, failing to find the road to the western regions of the park so we had to give it a miss. I guess there is always next time.
We were travelling with a Kia Sorento :shock: so werent keen to push things too much.
Next stop was Desert Queens Bath. I must admit, this place has found a special spot in my heart, I love it. I'm not sure why, whether its the scenery or the name or what but I just cant get enough. Unfortunately its been ravaged by a bush fire since our last visit. Here are some pictures for comparison. 2009 was like a lunar landscape and trying to be inconspicuous when nature called was almost impossible.
2007
Same camp site in 2009
The water levels had dropped by about a metre since our last visit and the wildlife had all but disappeared. Despite this I was determined to explore the full length of the gorge and visit the 8 pools along the way. We set off in bathers with lots of water and food but found only 4 water holes with water in them, the rest were dry. It took us several hours to do the return trip, and unfortunately the cameras stayed behind due to what water there was. We did make it to the end, coming out in a large pan shaped valley with lots of dried creek beds that collect the water that runs into DQB.
By this time we were starting to run low on water ourselves, so we headed off for Carawine Gorge, stopping at the northern hand pump to replenish supplies and have a quick wash in some fresh water.
Then it was on to Christmas Pool (which was also dry). Christmas Pool was a resting point for some early explorers looking for members of the ill fated Calvert scientific expedition in 1897. A H Crofton and J Connaughton carved their names into the rock Christmas Day 1897. Lots of others have since done the same thing unfortunately.
Carawine Gorge proved to be just as wonderful as our last visit. It was full of water and there had been substantial regrowth to the vegetation since our last visit. It was hit by cyclone Faye in 2004 and large groves of river gums and cajuputs were destroyed. All along the bank new trees are starting to grow and the banks are now virtually covered in bull rushes.
While camped here we cooked a roast meal in the camp oven. Life doesnt get any better.
Next stop was upper Carawine, here we had to part company temporarily with our freind in the Sorento, he was unable to cross the Oakover River due to its depth so had to head back to the main road where we would meet up with him later on at the Skull Springs Road. The section between the Oakover and Skull Springs Road was an unknown for us as we hadnt travelled it before and we were not sure we would get the camper trailer through. It turned out to be fairly easy with only a couple of deep washouts. Unfortunately due to the time table we set to meet up with our freind we werent able to call into upper Carawine, so like Hanging Rock it will have to wait until next time.
Track from Oakover River to Skull Springs Road.
Next stop was Running Waters. What a place. We drove in with the camper trailer, took a wrong turn and ended up on a narrow track that lead straight into a deep water hole. After a 27 point turn and nearly burning out the clutch I managed to turn around and head back the way we came. We eventually found a nice spot to swim and we spent several hours bathing in the warm crystal clear waters. It was our last stop before heading back to Newman and civilisation.
Skull Springs Road sign.
On the way back to Newman, we stopped at Nullagine and had a bite to eat at the Conglomerate Hotel.
We spent a night at Newman before heading back to Perth, nursing a leaking front diff the whole way home. (See 90 series Suspension)
This time it was dry and hot and the flies almost drove us insane. Most nights we slept on top of our sleeping bags and some days it reached the mid 30s.
In 2007 our first night was spent at Bilyuin Pool about 70kms north of Meekatharra. Heres a shot of Bilyuin in 2007
And one in 2009 (it was a sign of things to come)
After camping at Newman we headed off for Rudall River, topping up with fuel at Jigalong. Like all good people, those at Jigalong are West Coast Eagles supporters. Unfortunately, their footy ground isnt much better than Subi either.
Heading into the park we soon came across Rudall River, not much to see really.
The aim of this trip was to go to some of the places we didnt visit last time, so our first camp site in the park was supposed to be at Jarra Pool. I had the co ordinates in my gps, but being new to Oziexplorer I hadnt quite worked out how to set it to navigate to a given way point. We headed off down the road seemingly passing all these permanent water holes without seeing a single drop of water. I was starting to get a bit worried and frustrated. We drove round and round in circles looking for Jarra Pool, finally giving up and camping beside a dry creek bed.
While contemplating my lack of success in finding Jarra Pool I was reading the latest edition of Western 4WDriver which had a story about Rudall River. Sitting there looking at the pictures I looked up and noticed that the tree in front of me looked remarkably like the one in the photo, so up I got and had a closer look. It seemed we had found Jarra Pool after all, but its permanent water supply wasnt permanent this year.
A rather dry Jarra Pool.
In one of the trees is a plaque placed there by the Ives brothers in 1970 while retracing the steps of their grandfather many years earlier. I had met Rob Ives several years later so I was keen to see if I could find the plaque. His brother Noel met a rather untimely end, camping in his swag on a railway line with one of his mates in 1975. You can guess the rest.
Next on the agenda was Hanging Rock. Unfortunately I wasnt so lucky with my navigation, failing to find the road to the western regions of the park so we had to give it a miss. I guess there is always next time.
We were travelling with a Kia Sorento :shock: so werent keen to push things too much. Next stop was Desert Queens Bath. I must admit, this place has found a special spot in my heart, I love it. I'm not sure why, whether its the scenery or the name or what but I just cant get enough. Unfortunately its been ravaged by a bush fire since our last visit. Here are some pictures for comparison. 2009 was like a lunar landscape and trying to be inconspicuous when nature called was almost impossible.
2007
Same camp site in 2009
The water levels had dropped by about a metre since our last visit and the wildlife had all but disappeared. Despite this I was determined to explore the full length of the gorge and visit the 8 pools along the way. We set off in bathers with lots of water and food but found only 4 water holes with water in them, the rest were dry. It took us several hours to do the return trip, and unfortunately the cameras stayed behind due to what water there was. We did make it to the end, coming out in a large pan shaped valley with lots of dried creek beds that collect the water that runs into DQB.
By this time we were starting to run low on water ourselves, so we headed off for Carawine Gorge, stopping at the northern hand pump to replenish supplies and have a quick wash in some fresh water.
Then it was on to Christmas Pool (which was also dry). Christmas Pool was a resting point for some early explorers looking for members of the ill fated Calvert scientific expedition in 1897. A H Crofton and J Connaughton carved their names into the rock Christmas Day 1897. Lots of others have since done the same thing unfortunately.
Carawine Gorge proved to be just as wonderful as our last visit. It was full of water and there had been substantial regrowth to the vegetation since our last visit. It was hit by cyclone Faye in 2004 and large groves of river gums and cajuputs were destroyed. All along the bank new trees are starting to grow and the banks are now virtually covered in bull rushes.
While camped here we cooked a roast meal in the camp oven. Life doesnt get any better.
Next stop was upper Carawine, here we had to part company temporarily with our freind in the Sorento, he was unable to cross the Oakover River due to its depth so had to head back to the main road where we would meet up with him later on at the Skull Springs Road. The section between the Oakover and Skull Springs Road was an unknown for us as we hadnt travelled it before and we were not sure we would get the camper trailer through. It turned out to be fairly easy with only a couple of deep washouts. Unfortunately due to the time table we set to meet up with our freind we werent able to call into upper Carawine, so like Hanging Rock it will have to wait until next time.
Track from Oakover River to Skull Springs Road.
Next stop was Running Waters. What a place. We drove in with the camper trailer, took a wrong turn and ended up on a narrow track that lead straight into a deep water hole. After a 27 point turn and nearly burning out the clutch I managed to turn around and head back the way we came. We eventually found a nice spot to swim and we spent several hours bathing in the warm crystal clear waters. It was our last stop before heading back to Newman and civilisation.
Skull Springs Road sign.
On the way back to Newman, we stopped at Nullagine and had a bite to eat at the Conglomerate Hotel.
We spent a night at Newman before heading back to Perth, nursing a leaking front diff the whole way home. (See 90 series Suspension)
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