Canning Stock Route top half

[Trev Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close Trev]

http://s926.photobucket.com/albums/ad10 ... k%20Route/

With a bit of luck these should be the photos of the trip up the top half of the Canning Stock Route. I'll add the text ASAP. Cheers, Trev

Canning pics [http://s926.photobucket.com/albums/a...tock%20Route/]

[Trev Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close Trev]

Re: Canning Stock Route top half

The delayed start of the Canning Stock Route
Saturday
The day started off clear as a bell with no wind or rain and no temperature. We took the North Wiluna Road to the Great Northern Highway. The surface was good with water over the road at New Springs. We passed a couple of conveyor belts about the size of an airfield on enormous trucks at Kumarina. Newman was a surprise with a shopping centre, neat houses and a fuel garage we couldn’t find. It, Newman, is listed on our must see again list. About 110km north of Newman and up to Marble Bar we came across some of the most spectacular views we have come across in Australia. It was up on a par with the Cockburn Ranges. Next year it will be on our Pilbra list.
Sunday
Marble Bar was pleasant, neat and damn expensive. We swapped yarns with workers heading out to the myriad of mines scattered throughout the region. We received a message from Adam, a PraoPoint member, that the road was OK but to proceed with caution. The Telfer Mine Road was in top condition and was tar for the first 153km and the unsealed section was a breeze. After the turn off to Punmu we stopped under the shade of a tree for smoko and noticed we had two bars on the phone. We rang home, our son in Utah and Carol’s Mum in Noosa. The last call was interrupted as we nearly ran over a cyclist. Turns out he was Eddie the Frenchman headed to help out at Punmu for a while. We passed on the message to the COE at Punmu. The road to Kunawarritji was in top condition.
Kunawarritji Community was a bit different as it was being rebuilt and frames and material were everywhere it just wasn’t open on Sunday! Maybe, as they are building all these new things for the tourist industry they might eventually open on a Sunday. The sign said diesel was $3.20 and cash only. We were also told to go and camp at well 33. We will see how it goes tomorrow.
Well 33.
We arrived to a gathering of 10 vehicles sitting around waiting for the diesel to open and a million flies. This has now grown to about 15 or 16 4WDs and the flies have gone to bed. Everyone was friendly and helpful. The aerial was fixed by a fantastic design of cable ties replacing the wool from the Cook’s knitting, the impending weather of 6 inches of rain to a drought at the top end, the closer of the Tanami Road, and I only have enough tablets for a month, were the various comments. As the sun went down the country and western music drifted over us along with the smell of slowly burning Mulga (well I think it was ti tree like stuff) wood. We are invited over to join the others on a large community of like-minded travellers madly in love with Australia. Heaven could be like this.
Monday Well 33 to Well 41
After all the talking around the campfire and letting the tyres down to 22 psi we had an early start back to Kunawarritji to top up the fuel. They indeed accepted a debit card to pay for the fuel and things from the neat, clean new shop. Unfortunately the art shop was not open at 8am. We didn’t take any photographs of Kunawarritji but the operators were a bit touchy about people doing so. If they are going to open the place up for tourist accommodation, as they are building a new camping area and some accommodation units, then maybe they should get used to tourists. A good first step would be to tidy the place up to make it welcoming for tourism.
From Well 33 to Well 35 we were warned about the corrugations. They were knee deep and you need to change gears to get out of some of them. Well, not really but they were vicious and went on for miles. Eventually we got into the sand dunes and came upon two trucks heading south. Actually they were trying to head south but we all drove around in circles for a while until we sorted it all out. Our turnoff north was marked with a piece of Z section driven into the sand with two old brake shoes hanging off it. This was typical of the rest of the CSR with many intersections not marked. Some travellers have put arrows on old fuel drums and these are a great help.
Trying to describe the CSR and not having my citizenship revoked could be a problem. For much of the early driving from Wells 35 to 37 the track went along the top of the sand dunes. I had never done that before and it was very tedious and slow going. The CSR wanders all over the place and certainly was not constructed by Len and his crew. They went in straight lines, but they were chasing rockets and letting off bombs. I think the Canning boys started off the day by having penned a donkey up all night without water, blindfolding him, taking outside of the pen, turning him around three times and then belting him on the rump with a piece of 4X2 and telling him to go find the next waterhole. They then marked the route from the donkey tracks. That description may be a bit unkind but it is frustrating the be heading south west and west for much of the time. The straight line distance form Kunawarritji to Billiluna is 450km while Mr Canning and his crew, plus the donkey, managed to make the actual distance 619km. So you spend 169km, or 27% of the time going the wrong way. OK, so the camels could not pull the loaded drays straight over the sand dunes. So why spoil a story with details!
For the whole day we saw four other vehicles. Maybe the CSR is closed and we don’t know about it. (It turned out it was) We had been warned about Lake Tobin but they didn’t know about the heavy shower of rain we could see in the distance. You guessed it, it had been pouring over Lake Tobin when we arrived. It was almost 17km of water and mud. For the first time we were in 4WD high range and fuel consumption figures were blown out the window. We ended up walking four sections just to see how bad it was. All we did was scare ourselves. There were a couple of muddy bypass sections but most of it was flat to the floor in first, wipers racing, motor at 3000RPM, water and mud going everywhere. There was no turning back and certainly no getting bogged. The last four kilometres was flat out hard driving up where we could see of the road. Underneath we hoped there was still a solid road base. We kept it straight until the last 10 metres when she suddenly skewed across the track. We certainly were not going to die this close to firm sand and in one final burst she straightened and we had made it. It was all pretty exciting but we still had to make camp at Well 41. We did this in record time and in the dark. We will see how the Well looks in the morning and I’m just about to go outside and get rid of the camels.
Tuesday Well 41 to Well 48
We knew it was Tuesday because I looked at my watch. Other than that there were no clues. We had the Well to ourselves and it was indeed very pleasant with all the birds calling and the rain having cleared. We packed and started off following the trail of a thirsty, blindfolded donkey. We went three inches to the north east and forty miles to the west. After giving Mr canning a hard time I promise to polish my boots with Vegemite from now on. As the day turned out Len Beadell’s cousin, Seismic took over the design of the roads. At least Sighs Mick went in a straight line and used the points of the compass. At one stage we went due north for 20km straight over the sand dunes. The biggest one we crossed was 20 metres high. It didn’t seem to make any difference if we left the car in drive or used 4WD high range. We didn’t have to try twice on any dune. On one of the large dunes we went sailing over the top as there was a huge drop away on the other side. You crest the dune and all you can see is sky and hope the track is there. In this case it was a long way down.
The common topic amongst the car drivers was a united dislike to those towing trailers. They we blamed for making the holes in the track near the crest of the dunes trying to get traction to tow the trailers over. Early this morning there were no holes or tracks near the top as the wind had covered them over during the night.
Carol was reading the map and indicated we had entered the Great Sandy Desert and at the top of the very next dune it was if someone had vacuumed all the vegetation away and had just left sticks and sand there. It was an amazing sight as we have never seen a sand desert in Australia before. The colour of the sand was a soft pink.
We encountered a bit of mud to-day at Guli Lake, Salt Pan and at a clay pan with the worst being at Breadon Hills as we looked for Well 48. Gravity Lake was different as the road usually goes between the lakes but as it was now well underwater were warned to skirt it to the east. We arrived to find the skirting road under water for most of its length. The lake had a firm pebble base and we drove out and parked after deciding to walk around and find where the road came out. When I came back to the car it was surrounded by water as the wind had come up and pushed the water towards us just like the tide. Anyway driving through the lake was no problem.
Driving through mud is a bit of a strain as there are so few cars about, we saw two groups of two all day. So when you commit yourself to a muddy road there is no going back or asking for a second chance. You either make it or you don’t! And you could stay there for a long while!
Well 48 is the crappiest camp site for a Well that we have come across, but the view is amazing! We were at Breaden Hills at sunset. The colours were incredible and it was another time we have been awestruck on this trip. We can’t wait to see the sunrise after I chase the bloody camels away again.
Wednesday
We saw plenty before the dawn as it blew a gale all night. I figured if we stayed in the tent it would not blow away. It certainly did rock and roll. At dawn we took everything out of the tent and collapsed it, screwed the fly up and jammed it into its bag. The tent was like a sail but finally we made it and were underway by 7am and immediately went into the muddy tracks caused by the water seeping out of the Breaden Hills area. We were to see more mud in the desert to-day than any other day. Outside Well 48 the second tank light came on and a rough calculation of the consumption was a disappointing 19 litres per 100km.
We passed a burnt out Explorer which was a pretty sad sight. Some drongo had left for perpetuity his inability to spell “mileage” and there were other inane messages. You wonder why some people are so insensitive to how the people in the car had felt as their dreams were shattered so close to the finish. How much gear had they salvaged and what food or shelter they may have, or not had, until some help arrived. Having been in that situation I guess I am a bit sensitive about those things.
We caught up to a limping Nissan between Wells 50 and 51. He had cracked the diff housing and was trying to limp into Billiluna to weld it up again. Knowing now what was ahead I would be surprised if he made it. We talked about disconnecting the rear drive shaft and just using the front wheel drive but the conditions would have been pretty difficult. We wish them luck.
Once again we were amazed by the scenery as we drove (through the mud) between the Gregory Lakes. It was a smooth, lush green with the water in the lakes sparkling. We took photos of some Jabiru as they took flight. It was the lull before the storm.
The road in to Billiluna quickly deteriorated into a series of mud holes. Apparently the two cars we met yesterday were held up here for three days before they could get through. Then grader had pushed some by-passes around the worst holes and it looked like we were the fourth car to pass and the ground was still spongy. We were glad to see the building s of Billiluna.
Billiluna is, I’m thinking, “is interesting” and the shop closes between 11am and 2pm the garage was supposedly open from 7am until 3pm but it wasn’t open to-day. The Centrelink office was open.
We wandered up to Wolfe Crater for a look and lunch. It is a pretty amazing sight for a big hole in the ground. Halls Creek was the same as before with a second mortgage needed for the motel and nowhere to wash the car.
We found the Toyota dealer at Halls Creek and I asked him about a wheel alignment. He told me Prados do not go out of alignment and that I had probably bent something in the suspension. If I wanted to wait around for a few days he could have a look at it for me. I could take the car to Kunanurra but they would not look at it for another 10 days, I could take it to Katherine and try my luck or just drive it home. Some choices!
The things that worked;
The aerial has not broken which is a bonus as it is absolutely essential. I’m going home to order a spring loaded one.
The three inch mandrel bent exhaust by Taipan worked like a wonder and the mounts are still secure
The fridge would work properly by the morning so I have no idea as to when I can take the sledge hammer off.
The Mickey Thompson tyres were fabulous. We had no punctures for either track.
The el-cheapo tent stayed together and should make the rest of the trip.
Flat bread wraps were better than sliced bread. They stayed fresher, we easier to pack and tasted good.
The sand flag mounting worked.
Things that didn’t;
I’m still not impressed by the Sovereign Bullbar
The best sights were;
The Great Sandy Desert
Breaden Hills
Gravity Lakes
Gregory Lakes
The lookout on the top of Mount Earnest.
The Jabiru and Brolgas
The shower at Halls Creek
To-morrow we change the oil and filter and head out to Kalkaringi.

[Chippy Addicted PP Member Find all posts View Profile Close Chippy]

Re: Canning Stock Route top half

Luv your work Trev.

Its a bit like seeing the movie ... then going back to read the book ..... in a word ... BRILLIANT !!


I had no idea Toyota had released the Prado in a burnt orange colour scheme ... with colour matched bar work ..... :lol: :lol: :lol:



Thanks for sharing an amazing journey.

Cheers
Chippy

[Trev Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close Trev]

Re: Canning Stock Route top half

We went out early this morning, found a creek and threw water all over the Prado. Guess what we found underneath? A white Prado. OK whitish at least.
In a bed last night listening to the racket around I thought of many things I have left out.
One of the most helpful things were the signs a Canning Stock Route Road Construction Group put up in "JANUARY" 1900 (I think) These were very accurate and in the right place (most of the time)
If you are planning a trip you would need to look at something less than 200km per day and count on enough fuel to get to Halls Creek or Wiluna with a stop at Kumawarritji.
Even at this time of the year the bugs were intent on giving blood transfusion so we did the diary and PradoPoint reports in the front section of the tent and we could give it a good insect spray.
I rang Katherine Toyota this morning and they can have a look at the car on Saturday morning and they are taking bookings for Monday week. I might end up at Mount Isa.
We'll put the next report up as Halls Creek to Katherine.
Cheers, Trev

[MUMSRIG Avid PP Poster! Find all posts View Profile Close MUMSRIG]

Re: Canning Stock Route top half



Could be a mate of mine... He runs Fuel out that way... Used to run it in to us when I worked outside of Wiluna as well..

Great write up... Almost as good as being there... :wink: