Rears done today. It is a bit of a bugger doing it all by yourself but quite possible. Old stuff came out fairly easily but getting the new springs in was a bit of a task. You really need a few assorted small jacks and a trolley jack. With the back up on blocks and the old shocks and springs out and the sway bar disconnected I found to get the lhs spring in, jack up the rhs of the axle . To help further I used a small scissor jack between the axle and the bump stop on the lhs the get the last few mm. I needed to get the bugger in. Same procedure for the rhs. The shock too are fiddly because it is hard to get enough thread through the top mounting to get the nut on. I ended up putting the nut on a few threads without the top set of washers and rubber and poking it up through the hole just enough the get a spanner under the nut. This was then used to get enough purchase to pull the rest of the thread up enough to fit all of the bits. Te sway bar links were easy but I wish I knew of the 46 mm shortening. I think that is where I ended up anyway by adding 30mm to the old one's length.
I have only driven about 3 km just too see if anything fell off [ it didn't] BUT it seems great- no pitch, no squat, no nose diving and no sway. The ride from the back is firm but not harsh. It feels better than my old 120 did with OME [ ie Kings] mediums and air bags. More to come after the height settles.
How long should I leave it to get the wheel alignment.... time/ distance?.
I have only driven about 3 km just too see if anything fell off [ it didn't] BUT it seems great- no pitch, no squat, no nose diving and no sway. The ride from the back is firm but not harsh. It feels better than my old 120 did with OME [ ie Kings] mediums and air bags. More to come after the height settles.
How long should I leave it to get the wheel alignment.... time/ distance?.
Comment