Driving Lights

[Chippy Addicted PP Member Find all posts View Profile Close Chippy]

Yep .. I used twin core.

Tap into the H/B wire and run thru the firewall to the switch.
The other post of the switch goes back thru the firewall to the relay.

Just to complicate things ... I was running several sets of lights.

I ran twin core ... both wires tapped into the H/B wire ... thru the firewall to 2 switches. Then twin core from the 2 switches ... back thru the firewall to 2 relays. It just saved a lot of mucking around running them both at the same time. :lol: :lol:

Cheers
Chippy

[roddy Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close roddy]

Chippy,
thanks heaps... cheers

quote="Chippy"]Yep .. I used twin core.

Tap into the H/B wire and run thru the firewall to the switch.
The other post of the switch goes back thru the firewall to the relay.

Just to complicate things ... I was running several sets of lights.

I ran twin core ... both wires tapped into the H/B wire ... thru the firewall to 2 switches. Then twin core from the 2 switches ... back thru the firewall to 2 relays. It just saved a lot of mucking around running them both at the same time. :lol: :lol:

Cheers
Chippy[/quote]

[roddy Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close roddy]

hi,
i have a problem... will do my best to explain and hope someone can resolve for me.
I have fiited spotties etc and have wiring in place BUT have an issue on where to get active power from for the switch to the spotties.
I require a power sourse from when i flick on the highbeam it supplies active power to my switch. Then of course through my switch to the relay and to the spot lights.
You guys mention tapping in from behind the headlight.. I went to do this but when i used my tester to find the active for the highbeam - problem.
With just low beam on, I put the tester on 1 of the headlight pins, the other side of the tester to earth of course, and yes i have active...
but i also have active on the other pin. Then when i flick highbeam on, i have active on 1 pin and other now has no power?? So no joy here as i have constant power on lowbeam on both pins.
So i then put tester between the 2 pins, rather than between pin and earth, no power showing . Then when i switch on high beam, the tester lights up..
So any ideas??
cheers, Rod

Chippy,
thanks heaps... cheers

quote="Chippy"]Yep .. I used twin core.

Tap into the H/B wire and run thru the firewall to the switch.
The other post of the switch goes back thru the firewall to the relay.

Just to complicate things ... I was running several sets of lights.

I ran twin core ... both wires tapped into the H/B wire ... thru the firewall to 2 switches. Then twin core from the 2 switches ... back thru the firewall to 2 relays. It just saved a lot of mucking around running them both at the same time. :lol: :lol:

Cheers
Chippy

[/quote]

[clifton Advanced Member Find all posts View Profile Close clifton]

hi,
i have a problem... will do my best to explain and hope someone can resolve for me.
I have fiited spotties etc and have wiring in place BUT have an issue on where to get active power from for the switch to the spotties.
I require a power sourse from when i flick on the highbeam it supplies active power to my switch. Then of course through my switch to the relay and to the spot lights.
You guys mention tapping in from behind the headlight.. I went to do this but when i used my tester to find the active for the highbeam - problem.
With just low beam on, I put the tester on 1 of the headlight pins, the other side of the tester to earth of course, and yes i have active...
but i also have active on the other pin. Then when i flick highbeam on, i have active on 1 pin and other now has no power?? So no joy here as i have constant power on lowbeam on both pins.
So i then put tester between the 2 pins, rather than between pin and earth, no power showing . Then when i switch on high beam, the tester lights up..
So any ideas??
cheers, Rod

Chippy,
thanks heaps... cheers

quote="Chippy"]Yep .. I used twin core.

Tap into the H/B wire and run thru the firewall to the switch.
The other post of the switch goes back thru the firewall to the relay.

Just to complicate things ... I was running several sets of lights.

I ran twin core ... both wires tapped into the H/B wire ... thru the firewall to 2 switches. Then twin core from the 2 switches ... back thru the firewall to 2 relays. It just saved a lot of mucking around running them both at the same time. :lol: :lol:

Cheers
Chippy

[/quote]Hi Roddy,
I took my H/B tap from the Red and White Wire on the L/H side of lamp connector when looking down when standing in front of vehicle, on the drivers side headlamp.
There are two red and white wires entering into the Lamp plug the left hand (your left hand) is the High Beam I ran this through a 5A fuse to an LED switch then from the switch to the control coil side of the relay the other side of the coil ran to earth.
Hope this helps

[roddy Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close roddy]

hi Clifton
i discovered that Apparently, most new cars have "new" wiring system - constant power to lights, with activation via switched earth lead. To wire a relay, switching power in (terminal 86) taken from power in to light, terminal 85 connected to power out of light (switched earth circuit). Note: normally, relay terminal 85 goes directly to earth. So i am tapped into two out of the 3 pins on the headlight connector...

Basically the same as normal old std way of wiring except that pin 85 instead of going to earth, has a wire running back to the headlight conector.
But you have only tapped into 1 and even though my tester couldn't prove it would work, i think it is becasue:
tapping into the low beam is possible, as the switching is done on the negative side. When the low beam is on, the low beam wire that is tapped into becomes a short to frame, thus the relay for the spotties will not pull up, the resistance being too high. When high beam is selected, the low beam wire has a 12 volt potential to frame, thus current flows through the relay for the spotties, allowing them to turn on.
(found this on another site)
So even though i have wired the new way, i might try and see whether just hooking to the one you mention works.
cheers and thanks, Rod