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Which colour wire on brake pedal to connect Tekonsha P3 electric brake controller to?

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  • #16
    Thanks mate, I might do the same..
    D4D Prado GXL - 2014. 2" OME lift, ARB Deluxe Winch bar, ARB under body protection plates, ARB EZ Deflator, Weaco fridge, Matsen fridge on slide, BFG A/T's, ARB CKMA12 compressor, Oztrail side awning with LED lights PLUS canvas extension, Lightforce XGT's.. Oricom UHF380, GME AE4017

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    • #17
      I would never, ever, ever use a ScotchLok.

      Leachy
      EX-Prado Owner

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      • #18
        Never Ever, Ever??
        I was reconsidering even as I was putting it all back together again.
        Could be part of my other issue, relating to powering off the device...
        D4D Prado GXL - 2014. 2" OME lift, ARB Deluxe Winch bar, ARB under body protection plates, ARB EZ Deflator, Weaco fridge, Matsen fridge on slide, BFG A/T's, ARB CKMA12 compressor, Oztrail side awning with LED lights PLUS canvas extension, Lightforce XGT's.. Oricom UHF380, GME AE4017

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        • #19
          Sorry to dig up an old thread, but I've decided given that I've been towing the camper, I should be probably get off my backside and install the brake controller!!

          How are people running cables to the rear of the car? In cabin, or out the firewall and following the chassis etc?

          Thanks
          Ian.
          Diesel Prado with various things...

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          • #20
            Hi all,

            I'm using the forums info at the moment, I might be a vehicle technician, but I don't know everything & have never fitted a brake controller.
            I have a p2 to fit to my 2003. 120 series.
            It seems simple, but there are a few variables?????

            1.) Although on some vehicles there can be issues with connecting at the stop light switch I think on our vehicles we don't have these problems?
            Has anyone had issues with this on a 120 series?

            2.) it asks to be connected direct to the battery, why would this be required? Surely some constant power from under dash will suffice?
            For that matter, why do they want constant power? Wouldn't it be better to wire to accessory power?

            3.) is there definitely no blue/trailer wire that runs from front to rear already? I know it's easy to run one, but I just think why do it if its there?
            I'm yet to check if mine, it may have had a brake controller fitted before & a wire might be there.

            Thankx in advance or any replys.

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            • #21
              HI ####, it is easy. I did it myself and have no mechanical or electrical training....

              1) I installed into the break wire after the switch in the passenger's side kick panel. Just find the right coloured wire and check it is the break wire using a test lamp. This way you don't have to run the wire all the way to the back of the car. That seemed to be much easier to me and that way I only run one wire (I don't need any other wires as I run my aux power down the drivers side to a bus bar in the rear.

              2) I think it is only a preferred safety issue, but it could be run off the closest aux power

              3) There is definitely no blue wire running the full length. It ends just next to the jack inside the passenger side rear panel (accessed by removing the interior trim).
              2004 GXL V6 Auto, 2" Dobinson/Bilsteins, Rola Alloy Rack, AJ's Side steps, Safari snorkel, Sidewinder dual battery, SSB agm battery, Milford cargo barrier, Tigerz11 awning with Korr LED lights, Ironman Underbody Protection, IPF 900XS with 55w HID kit on Sovereign bar, LED Reversing/Work light, Uniden CB, Diff & Transmission Breathers, CouplerTec rust protection, BFG 265/70R17, Tekonsha brake controller and tows a 2011 CUB Daintree LE.

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              • #22
                Originally posted by Anth120playdo View Post
                Hi all,

                I'm using the forums info at the moment, I might be a vehicle technician, but I don't know everything & have never fitted a brake controller.
                I have a p2 to fit to my 2003. 120 series.
                It seems simple, but there are a few variables?????

                1.) Although on some vehicles there can be issues with connecting at the stop light switch I think on our vehicles we don't have these problems?
                Has anyone had issues with this on a 120 series?

                2.) it asks to be connected direct to the battery, why would this be required? Surely some constant power from under dash will suffice?
                For that matter, why do they want constant power? Wouldn't it be better to wire to accessory power?

                3.) is there definitely no blue/trailer wire that runs from front to rear already? I know it's easy to run one, but I just think why do it if its there?
                I'm yet to check if mine, it may have had a brake controller fitted before & a wire might be there.

                Thankx in advance or any replys.
                Hey bud...

                1.) As a vehicle technician, you won't have trouble accessing the brake switch. You will already be accustomed to contortionist type positions we get into (Alarm and Remote Start specialist here)

                2.) Use Constant power as that's what your brakes have. Don't grab power from under the dash because of the current that can be required under heavy braking. The only potential source is the ignition harness and to take power from there under heavy braking will mean a voltage right across the car. Get it severe enough and some relays may switch off shutting down parts of the car while emergency braking.

                3.) No clue.

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                • #23
                  Thankx guys,

                  It all helps, I will run it to the battery.

                  Anyone else got any tips? Nothing like being prepared.
                  I won't be doing it till next week.

                  ####.

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                  • #24
                    ####,

                    My kit came with all required, including a circuit breaker to be used when getting power directly from the battery, the supplied cables were quite thick, indicating the draw required.
                    There is no blue wire running front to back, but there is a tail in behind the passenger side tail light, near the jack, that is dead easy to tap into for the trailer wiring, mine is a standard Toyota tow bar, not sure if others offer the same..

                    The hardest part was finding a good spot to hang the controller.

                    One thing to note, is, once it is installed and running, when you turn off the ignition, the unit remains powered up and running for 5-15mins. It is normal.
                    D4D Prado GXL - 2014. 2" OME lift, ARB Deluxe Winch bar, ARB under body protection plates, ARB EZ Deflator, Weaco fridge, Matsen fridge on slide, BFG A/T's, ARB CKMA12 compressor, Oztrail side awning with LED lights PLUS canvas extension, Lightforce XGT's.. Oricom UHF380, GME AE4017

                    Comment


                    • #25
                      ####,

                      My kit came with all required, including a circuit breaker to be used when getting power directly from the battery, the supplied cables were quite thick, indicating the draw required.
                      There is no blue wire running front to back, but there is a tail in behind the passenger side tail light, near the jack, that is dead easy to tap into for the trailer wiring, mine is a standard Toyota tow bar, not sure if others offer the same..

                      The hardest part was finding a good spot to hang the controller.

                      One thing to note, is, once it is installed and running, when you turn off the ignition, the unit remains powered up and running for 5-15mins. It is normal.
                      D4D Prado GXL - 2014. 2" OME lift, ARB Deluxe Winch bar, ARB under body protection plates, ARB EZ Deflator, Weaco fridge, Matsen fridge on slide, BFG A/T's, ARB CKMA12 compressor, Oztrail side awning with LED lights PLUS canvas extension, Lightforce XGT's.. Oricom UHF380, GME AE4017

                      Comment

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