I have 120 series petrol with 145 k on the clock. I need to replace the pads and have rotors machined. What are people fitting and is it worth going for slotted rotors. Any thoughts
Announcement
Collapse
No announcement yet.
What pads and rotors are best
Collapse
X
-
Double check your DOT required for your vehicle... if it says ONLY DOT 3 on the master cyl reservoir...just use that... i have just done my brakes yestrrday.. Kits thru all calipers with a full flush of DOT 3, disks machined- ive got DBA 4000 series GOLD on the front with bendix 4x4 pads, standard disks on rear with ferodo TQ,s pads. Wouuld have had TQ's all round but the fronts havent been released in oz yet. august apparently.HERS - KZJ120, BILSTIEN / KINGS, AMTS GEAR, RHINO GEAR, OUTBACK DRAWERS ETC ETC ETC
MINE - HDJ78 RV TROOPY. 1HDFTE. TWIN FACTORY LOCKERS. STEINBAUER POWER. OME LIFT. BEAST.
Comment
-
Bendix 4x4 over ferodo, have had some small brake squeal issues with all ferodo pads over the years including the tq
Just machine the discs on the car, save your $$$ they will be better quality and have lowest runout once machined than putting on new rotors when not required.
Change/flush brake fluid every 2 years.
Comment
-
interesting because I reckon ferodo>>>>>>>>> bendix. Brake squeal doesn`t necessarily come form pad, might just need a little grease on the backing plate or shim.
Bendix used to be good, I would fit Lucas pads before Bendix.stepped up the a 200 LC for towing,
but had a 2012 and 2010 150 Prado GXL auto diesel in Graphite with Bridgestone D697 A/T. Dobinson C59-300/325 and Bilsteins. Accessories : two baby seats. Sidewinder`s Dual Battery isolator and rear power outlet kit. Pirana Battery tray, Hayman Reese towbar with Toyota wiring kit and Brains`s guard.
Comment
-
Hi guys
Here is some links on Dot3 v Dot4!
what is the difference between DOT3 and DOT4 brake fluids?
http://mechanics.stackexchange.com/q...4-brake-fluids
Can someone comment about Dot 3 vs Dot 4
http://forum.roadfly.com/threads/125...Dot-3-vs-Dot-4
Cheers
Comment
-
Hey skywalker. im not sure what your take on the 3vs4 is but im sure you could use either if you wanted to. With the ABS in our cars Toyo recommends dot3. my personal take is i would say the seals and the ABS has been engineered for dot 3 so thats what i will use personally... i have my family in the car so im not risking something going amiss with the brakes. its would certainly make a good debate. so what is your view?HERS - KZJ120, BILSTIEN / KINGS, AMTS GEAR, RHINO GEAR, OUTBACK DRAWERS ETC ETC ETC
MINE - HDJ78 RV TROOPY. 1HDFTE. TWIN FACTORY LOCKERS. STEINBAUER POWER. OME LIFT. BEAST.
Comment
-
Hah good one... marketing and wives... ive been lookn at this subject way before u posted these links. as i said, whats your take. you post links but dont offer an opinion.Last edited by mackayvx; 28-06-2012, 10:29 PM.HERS - KZJ120, BILSTIEN / KINGS, AMTS GEAR, RHINO GEAR, OUTBACK DRAWERS ETC ETC ETC
MINE - HDJ78 RV TROOPY. 1HDFTE. TWIN FACTORY LOCKERS. STEINBAUER POWER. OME LIFT. BEAST.
Comment
-
My experience is ferodo make the noise, and plenty of dust& chew out your rotors untill tq came along (good for stopping however)Originally posted by maxjj View Postinteresting because I reckon ferodo>>>>>>>>> bendix. Brake squeal doesn`t necessarily come form pad, might just need a little grease on the backing plate or shim.
Bendix used to be good, I would fit Lucas pads before Bendix.
Bendix I don't have issues with
Pad glue n grease will help hide a problem yes!
I use Bendix, I don't use grease unless those pads come with it (some do)
A bit if a story behind it too, I was given ferodo excell and targets years ago to try
I did, seemed ok, sold 20 or so sets before mine got noisy
Of corse so did customers (not good) foot that all sorted (back to Bendix)
Tq came out, I said No NO NO, they said here try these..... I said NONO
Anyway I did, and it wasn't as bad but the squeal was there at a certain pedal pressure (light)
Used the odd set since then when I needed pads and couldn't get Bendix in time
Of those few sets it wasn't bad enuff for anyone to complain
So improved a lot!
Blah blah blah.....
Comment
-
Oh and to put it simple
dot 4 is better than dot 3!
280+boiling point
I use dot4 in anything that says dot 3 or 4
Never had an issue, the problems I hear about where some blame putting dot 4 instead of dot 3.....
Well I think it is more of a bleeding priceedure that wrecked their master cyl :-)
Tip: when bleeding don't pump the pedal....???
Confused? Gravity bleed better! Never push pedal past normal travel unless u want to risk damage to master.
Comment
-
Gday #############
I agree with you 100% but i thought (Dumb thought) that putting up the links that it would explain and answer all questions at the same time!
I thought it would rule out the "I heard from a mate"......... and that (Brake Fluid Facts by Steve Wall As a former materials engineering supervisor at a major automotive brake system supplier) would carry some weight behind his claims.
Obviously Dot5 would not be part of the equation due to its silcon base.
DOT 3 brake fluids are mixtures of glycols and glycol ethers.
DOT 4 contains borate esters in addition to what is contained in DOT 3. These brake fluids are somewhat similar to automotive anti-freeze (ethylene glycol)
DOT 3-4 glycol based fluids, just like ethylene glycol antifreezes, are readily miscible with water.
DOT 5 fluids, not being water miscible, must rely on the silicone (with some corrosion inhibitors) as a barrier film to control corrosion. Water is not absorbed by silicone as in the case of DOT 3-4 fluids
DOT 3 and DOT 4 fluids are mutually compatible.
And as you said! "Never" pump the brake pedal past its normal travel (Gravity or pressure bleed only) as this will (could) scrub the master cylinder seals and cause the pedal to creep when pulling-up gradually.
And yes! I have no problem replacing Dot3 to Dot4 due to the fact they are mutually compatible and that Dot4 boiling point (446F) than DOT 3 (401F) when in their healthy state.
Cheers
Comment
-
all good info there.Originally posted by Anth120playdo View PostMy experience is ferodo make the noise, and plenty of dust& chew out your rotors untill tq came along (good for stopping however)
Bendix I don't have issues with
Pad glue n grease will help hide a problem yes!
I use Bendix, I don't use grease unless those pads come with it (some do)
A bit if a story behind it too, I was given ferodo excell and targets years ago to try
I did, seemed ok, sold 20 or so sets before mine got noisy
Of corse so did customers (not good) foot that all sorted (back to Bendix)
Tq came out, I said No NO NO, they said here try these..... I said NONO
Anyway I did, and it wasn't as bad but the squeal was there at a certain pedal pressure (light)
Used the odd set since then when I needed pads and couldn't get Bendix in time
Of those few sets it wasn't bad enuff for anyone to complain
So improved a lot!
Blah blah blah.....
I had tried Bendix ultimate and then used Ferodo ts2000/Ds 2000/ Formula ferodo whatever you want to call them. They worked better for me than the Bendix Ultimate.
Had bendix and then replaced them with Lucas in the previous 4wd and found them better, better stopping and less rotor wear.
Found that Bendix ultimate faded too early and wore rotors more than the DS2000. Only had noise problems even when running DS2500 when I hadn`t applied a bit of grease on the backing plate etc. DS2500 are a bit overkill, for road/occasional track day and bit slow to warm up on a cold morning, also made a bit of noise when cold. Dust has never worried me, rather have dust than rooted rotors.
Guess I am a bit gun shy with Bendix.
Was thinking of putting ferodo TQ in the new Prado to preserve rotors.stepped up the a 200 LC for towing,
but had a 2012 and 2010 150 Prado GXL auto diesel in Graphite with Bridgestone D697 A/T. Dobinson C59-300/325 and Bilsteins. Accessories : two baby seats. Sidewinder`s Dual Battery isolator and rear power outlet kit. Pirana Battery tray, Hayman Reese towbar with Toyota wiring kit and Brains`s guard.
Comment
Comment