Torque Convertor lock up instal

[Mozz Member Find all posts View Profile Close Mozz]

Thanks Mozz. That's very helpful. Mine is actually a 2003 V6 (1GR-FE). Your circuits are for a 1KD-FTV 2004 to 2008. My biggest problem is finding a wiring diag that shows the connection to the TCC solenoid for my model. I'm starting to wonder if it even has a TCC. I'll have to do a physical check on my ECT Solenoids pin 13 and 5 to see if there is anything there. I see you have discovered the solenoids are 5VDC. I think Jamie's circuit still uses 12V to the solenoid which may be a problem in the long term. BTW you posted page 2 to of your circuits twice and no page 3. No matter though. I use this source as a ref: http://moranbahweather.com/toyota/

Just to clarify I have not determined what voltage the solenoid runs at I was assuming 5 volts. All I do know is it should have between 5 and 5.5 ohms resistance and in the manual when it speaks about testing it it says to run it of a 12 volt battery with a 21 watt globe in series so obviously it is less than 12 volts but I think I need to run a volt meter across it to determine for sure unless someone has already worked this out.

I have been playing around with some ideas to cancel the lock up with the application of the brakes and also have it drop out at 40km/h or thereabouts with the switch capable of over-riding these functions if required.

[Hatobuilico Lurker Find all posts View Profile Close Hatobuilico]

Hi Jamie, can't open it through Rapid share, maybe you send me a product link please.

[Mozz Member Find all posts View Profile Close Mozz]

It might be against the forum rules?
But if not here it is for the Prado
https://onedrive.live.com/redir?resi...int=file%2cpdf


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Those instructions are for the earlier model I do have the later 5 speed instructions I'd anyone is interested. Noting we didn't know it taps into the 2 lockup solinoid pins and the reverse for some reason.

[MRW82 Member Find all posts View Profile Close MRW82]

UPDATE: got the relay setup installed today...... And it works!!!!! Couple of teething issues but proof of concept is good.
Had slippage in top gear when it was supposed to be locked, seemed strange though in the way it acted, was different to normal operation. Anyway, that was using a 5 volt regulator for power to the solenoid, but even before the test drive we picked up on a low voltage issue there that needs investigating. When I bypassed the voltage reg and put 12v to the solenoid I had full and total lockup!!! I don't want to run it at 12 volts though as it could burn the solenoid out over time. So a bit more testing for voltages is required.

The P/N lockout relay worked as it should and wiring to it was easy.
The LO indicator light we wired to the plug at the back of the instrument cluster (cluster removal was required). Only issue here is the 'height control, high, normal, lo' lights are illuminated on activation and remains that way until ignition off. It is a dull white light and is barely noticeable in daylight, night time should not be distracting at all. When lockup is active there is a green dot next to the LO, it would be as bright as the 90L fuel gauge light, but is only a small dot. So it will get your attention but will not be overpowering.

I had the CEL light come up after a while of testing, but it was slipping when I think it was looking for it to be locked, won't be an issue once the voltage issue is sorted.

All in all I'm happy to say it works.

[Mozz Member Find all posts View Profile Close Mozz]

Have you put a multi meter across the 2 wires when the TCM requests it to see what voltage is there. Like I said in an earlier post when the manual talks about testing the solinoid themselves some it says to cone CT direct to a battery but the lock up one says to run a 21 watt globe in series while testing so am pretty sure it should be less than 12 volts. Well done though mate.

[MRW82 Member Find all posts View Profile Close MRW82]

Yep, 6 volts across the solenoid at full lock up. Done some more testing this arvo and found at 5 volts I'm getting full lockup, but after about 30 seconds voltage from the regulator is dropping to about 2.5volts. The problem being the regulator (3amp) is not handling the load of the solenoid and overheating. We need to measure the current draw of the solenoid, but the plan at the moment is to run 2 voltage regs in parallel, mounted to a heat sink.

also looking at a higher rated regulator but they are hard to find. This set up is still a temp/test design, with terminal pin relays, once we have it 100% sorted it will be getting made into a neat pcb set up.

[Mozz Member Find all posts View Profile Close Mozz]

Just a couple of ideas have you considered just running a load resistor in series instead of the 5 volt supply. If you are going to put this all on a neat PCB I'd add a couple of features being a latching relay so you can activate it with single push of a momentary on switch and deactivate with another push of the button or hit the brakes. You could use a momentary on/off/on switch you could use the on position to override the whole lot of safety features if required. Also add a speed/rpm switch to disable the lock up below 50 kmh. Just a few safety ideas but worth the effort if you are going to put it on a board in a box.

[MRW82 Member Find all posts View Profile Close MRW82]

We have considered the load resistor and only stayed away from using it because of heat generation, but haven't ruled out using it yet.

I don't want it set up with a brake deactivate because I want to be able to use full engine braking when towing down hills. Some of which could be quite slow speeds. Having the ability to keep the TC locked could be a big advantage.

[Mozz Member Find all posts View Profile Close Mozz]

You can get the metal base type resistors with a heat sink that would be ideal I think. My idea with the speed and brake cut out was then to have an over ride switch to bypass the cut outs when towing. I think if you are going to make them to sell most people don't tow all the time and having the auto cancel function would be much easier and safer to use for everyday driving.

[LeighW Avid PP Poster! Find all posts View Profile Close LeighW]

You could use a normal 3 leg voltage regulator combined with a power
transistor, this would be the cheapest way to handle the required current.

The other option is to make a simple constant current source using a cheap
power transistor.

Keep in mind Watts = E x I so using either a Voltage regulator, constant current
source or resistor will all result in the same thermal load give same current through
solenoid. An aluminum housed high power panel resistor is probably the easiest
option and that's why the others have used it.

If you want to keep the heat down then your going to need a switched mode
power supply, ie most likely what the transmission ECU is doing (PWM)

[Davis Dieso Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close Davis Dieso]

Hi Jamie, can't open it through Rapid share, maybe you send me a product link please.

Sorry guys, rapid share went nuts.

Try this, https://www.dropbox.com/s/x7karsquuv...p%20.docx?dl=0

This should work.

Very interesting discussions going on.

Jamie

[MRW82 Member Find all posts View Profile Close MRW82]

Given that the regulator was generating plenty of heat, which was the main reason for avoiding the resistor. We ended up listening to your suggestions ( mozz and Leigh) and put a 21w load resistor in instead. Mounted to a metal bracket up under the dash where its heat won't affect anything. Now I'm getting a steady 5 volts and full torque converter lockup. With no concerns of reliability of the setup.


The big test is this evening when I hook up the loaded trailer and head away for the long weekend. Hopefully all this effort will make a worthwhile difference to the behaviour of the auto when pulling a load.

[Mozz Member Find all posts View Profile Close Mozz]

Given that the regulator was generating plenty of heat, which was the main reason for avoiding the resistor. We ended up listening to your suggestions ( mozz and Leigh) and put a 21w load resistor in instead. Mounted to a metal bracket up under the dash where its heat won't affect anything. Now I'm getting a steady 5 volts and full torque converter lockup. With no concerns of reliability of the setup.


The big test is this evening when I hook up the loaded trailer and head away for the long weekend. Hopefully all this effort will make a worthwhile difference to the behaviour of the auto when pulling a load.

Thats good mate hope it all works for you. I am just getting the bits together to do my own. Are you still using the same 6 ohm resistor to trick the TCM into thinking the solinoid is connected while manual lock up is on.

[MRW82 Member Find all posts View Profile Close MRW82]

Yep

[chardo Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close chardo]

MRW82
Hi Mark, Hi all, All sounding good, Hope all goes well, Im sure it will as you have put the time and research into it. Have a good one mate. Cheers Bill. PS I have just put all new injector seals and a new injector in my beast this week, Quite a task. I'm looking into cleaning out the EGR and inlet manifold as well soon. catch ya.