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  • #16
    Re: Seized Diff Plug

    wbt023, Have you read viewtopic.php?f=1&t=4465 on how to post images?
    [b]2000 Prado RV6[/b] ~ TJM Type 15 Steel Bullbar ~ Uniden 400SX-RM & GME4702 Ant ~ Front Tow/Recovery Hooks ~ ARB Recovery Kit ~ ARB CKMP12 Air Compressor ~ DIY Rear Door Trim & Table ~ Extended Diff Breathers ~ Safari Snorkel ~ Wireless Reverse Camera ~ Iron Ox Full Length Roof Rack ~ Looong Wish List ...

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    • #17
      Re: Seized Diff Plug

      I thought I'd give it a few days to let the drain plug 'magnet' do its thing, will change fluid again this weekend. Thanks for the advice...

      The old plug seen better days!

      Also spoke to toyota service department whom said that 'yes, front diff. plugs commonly seize due to constant heat/cool cycles' and that 'it is common to have to cold chisel them out'...

      hmmmm.

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      • #18
        Re: Seized Diff Plug

        Hi,
        Same problem with my 2005 120.
        Managed to remove it with my 2 foot 3/4 drive ratchet and half inch drive allen key socket.
        using my 3/4 to 1/2 adapter.
        Been working on vehicles for over 50 years in :shock: :shock: my job. and never had this problem before.
        Sounds like I was lucky to undo it.

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        • #19
          Re: Seized Diff Plug

          So I got Toyota to remove the front diff. drain plug. They used an oxy torch then cold chiselled it out...
          New plug, oil and anti-seize on the thread, 98 bucks...

          I think I may drop this oil every 20k to try and avoid the same issue...

          Ben

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          • #20
            Hi Fellas,

            I had the same issue but resolved it.
            I spend ages stuffing with it until it finally threaded the Allen key hole and had no chance of getting it open. So I by cut a 10mm shaft bolt and pushed it into the allen key hole and welded it while it was on the car, so now I have a normal bolt head to use to open it. After attaching the socket and turning the rachet it opened really easy without much force. I really think that heat is the key here. The heat from the welding made it hot and it opened real easy. Maybe before attempting it next time it would be a good idea to head it up with a blow torch for a while.
            Anyway I think quick welds of bolt heads to these are the way to go so you just open it like a normal bolt. If you can't weld then heat it up.

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            • #21
              I am having the same problem at the moment I have only ever had my car serviced by Toyota. I tried my 3/4 ratchet and was turning it an 1/8 of a turn at the handle, borrowed a freinds 1/2 socket and using my breaker bar and an extension pipe I could turn it past the 1/8th am really worried I am going to break something. This is crazy and nerve racking.

              do you reckon Toyota servicing would of really used air tools on it?? Or is this an on going fault I will have to live with?? The filler plug was easy to remove, why should the drain cause so much trouble???

              Ill have to hunt around to get a blow torch to heat it up.
              Honestly amazed
              2003 GXL 1kz-te Diesel; ARB Winch Bar; Safari Snorkel; Uniden CB; 265/70 Maxis Big horns (noise cancelling); 2x100w Bosc Spotties, Rola Roof Rack. DBA Slotted Disks

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              • #22
                The problem is using a small tool (Allen key) to open a large diameter thread.

                If the allen key was larger or if it was a bolt head the size of the current thread, it would be much easier to undo. But it also means that the plug can be done up much tighter and strip the thread.

                Not sure why the filler plug is easier. Maybe the drainage plug has a slight taper to ensure a good seal.

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                • #23
                  Same issue exists with a 200 Series front diff drain plug.

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                  • #24
                    Alternative plug

                    There is an alternative plug available on ebay with a hex head to take a socket
                    It is fully machined and fitted with a magnet and made in oz

                    Not cheap $29 but if it saves chiseling and welding then it is cheap ☺

                    I think the front diff oil should be changed more often than the back because it only holds half as much and operates in a hotter environment with less cooling due to bash plates etc
                    Cheers
                    Mike
                    White 2010 gx diesel auto, bilstein shocks 50mm lift king springs, tjm steps, warn 9500, lt265-65-17 bfg atko on steel rims. Racor 230R10 filter
                    Adelaide based

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                    • #25
                      Got a link to the plug?

                      Thanks,
                      2019 GXL, Bullbar, UHF, Redarc Brake Controller, Tow Bar, Secondary Fuel Filter

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                      • #26
                        http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/191799800...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

                        No connections with the seller
                        Only a customer soon ☺

                        Interesting seller ...... even sells new teeth for maxtrax haha
                        White 2010 gx diesel auto, bilstein shocks 50mm lift king springs, tjm steps, warn 9500, lt265-65-17 bfg atko on steel rims. Racor 230R10 filter
                        Adelaide based

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                        • #27
                          And UVP and pet barriers, and ......
                          2004 V6 Grande. BLACK -

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                          • #28
                            Originally posted by reddevil25 View Post
                            http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/191799800...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

                            No connections with the seller
                            Only a customer soon ☺

                            Interesting seller ...... even sells new teeth for maxtrax haha
                            Yeah good plug. He also sells a great tool to remove the drain & filler plugs. I have been very happy with it.

                            Great firm & keen to service 4x4 community.

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                            • #29
                              Originally posted by tempestv8 View Post
                              Same issue exists with a 200 Series front diff drain plug.
                              I followed advice given by a boilermaker - which is to give the stuck drain plug a few sharp, well placed taps with the good ol hammer directly onto the flat surface of the plug.

                              I didn't tap too hard because the diff housing is alloy.

                              The taps did the trick, because the plug came off easily without any further dramas. I have since replaced it with another genuine drain plug, now that I know all that is required is a sharp rap with a hammer before attempting to undo the plug.

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                              • #30
                                More fun with over tightened front diff plugs.




                                Best system I have is, cut a good mark into it with a sharp chisel. Then use the big blunt chisel & mash hammer.

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