Redarc BCDC-1220 20amp DC-DC 3 Stage Battery Charger Install

[LiveFreeAndRoam Avid PP Poster! Find all posts View Profile Close LiveFreeAndRoam]

Re: Redarc BCDC-1220 20amp DC-DC 3 Stage Battery Charger Install

Hi Guys,

Thanks for your posts describing your install Rod01 and OldGreyGuy.

Later this week I'll check out the caravaning/camping/4WD show in Brisvegas; hopefully I can get a good deal on one of these units. It'd be nice to save a few dollars, given the best price I've found is $450. (Please, let me know if you've found a source that beats that).

- Blue - Ignition Voltage Sense (I connected in to the Aircon sensor, in front of the radiator)

I found that I had two sets of plugs up at the aircon sensor, one was taped up and not being used and the other was connected to the air-conditioning, I used one of the unused plugs and checked to see if it had voltage when the ignition was on, it did only when the ignition was in the on position and was independent of the air-conditioning controls.

In the picture below, is this the socket you're talking about (driver's side, front of radiator on D4D)?
Did you keep the socket or snip it off and just use the positive wire, leaving the other disconnected?

I used 6mm wire (the same as the redarc unit)

Any comments on this plan?[list=1][*]6 mm2 between +ve terminals of batteries (via BCDC-1220 red-wire is input, brown is output).[/*:m:3j0tb8fr][*]6 mm2 between -ve terminals of batteries (direct connect)[/*:m:3j0tb8fr][*]6 B&S from +ve aux, to rear of vehicle (powers fridge in 2nd-row seat position and a 50-A anderson-plug at tow-bar position)[/*:m:3j0tb8fr][*]Earth Chassis (front & rear to help equalise earth points)

1. 6 B&S (too big?) wire from engine-block to chassis (to earth the chassis at front)[/*:m:3j0tb8fr]
2. 6 B&S (too big?) wire from rear-body to chassis (to earth chassis at rear)[/*:m:3j0tb8fr]

[/*:m:3j0tb8fr][*]Minimise voltage drop to accessory sockets by using chassis or body as earth points (whichever is easiest)[/*:m:3j0tb8fr][*]Split tubing to protect all cables[/*:m:3j0tb8fr][*]Fused as per BCDC-1220 User Manual[/*:m:3j0tb8fr][/list:3j0tb8fr]

References:

1. Smart Start BCDC 1220 Home Page[/*:m:3j0tb8fr]
2. Redarc Forum - Smart Start BCDC1220[/*:m:3j0tb8fr]
3. WIRING WOES AND AUTO CABLE[/*:m:3j0tb8fr]
4. Fridage & Solar - Dual Battery Systems & Atlernator charging[/*:m:3j0tb8fr]
5. Fridge & Solar - Auto Cable[/*:m:3j0tb8fr]
6. 4x4 Australia June 2010 No.317 - p.26 To The Wire[/*:m:3j0tb8fr]
7. Not to mention the many posts in PradoPoint and other forums[/*:m:3j0tb8fr]

Cheers,
LFaR.
[Edit: Changed units from mm to B&S]

[01Rod Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close 01Rod]

Re: Redarc BCDC-1220 20amp DC-DC 3 Stage Battery Charger Install

Hi Guys,


Later this week I'll check out the caravaning/camping/4WD show in Brisvegas; hopefully I can get a good deal on one of these units. It'd be nice to save a few dollars, given the best price I've found is $450. (Please, let me know if you've found a source that beats that).

- Blue - Ignition Voltage Sense (I connected in to the Aircon sensor, in front of the radiator)

I found that I had two sets of plugs up at the aircon sensor, one was taped up and not being used and the other was connected to the air-conditioning, I used one of the unused plugs and checked to see if it had voltage when the ignition was on, it did only when the ignition was in the on position and was independent of the air-conditioning controls.

In the picture below, is this the socket you're talking about (driver's side, front of radiator on D4D)?
Did you keep the socket or snip it off and just use the positive wire, leaving the other disconnected?

I will try to take a photo and upload it for you.. I only had the one socket (pre d4d). So I just spliced into the wire. (Just use your test light to check for power on the wire)

Any comments on this plan?

6mm will be fine...
I used 6mm twin sheath
from Narva
http://www.narva.com.au/products/browse ... ure-8-twin

I suggest not using the chassis as the earth and running twin sheath cable, can be more prone to voltage drop through bad connections.. IMO

6.Split tubing to protect all cables

[/quote]
It's very easy to run the cables through the interier of the car for the sockets in the rear cargo area.. (using the twin sheath) I dont think you need to worry about the split tubing.. unless you run it under the vehicle then Yes use the tubing.

Yell out if you need any help..

Rod

[drivesafe Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close drivesafe]

Re: Redarc BCDC-1220 20amp DC-DC 3 Stage Battery Charger Install

Just use your test light to check for power on the wire

Sorry to jump in here Rod and Matt, but under no circumstances should a test light be used on any vehicle fitted with air bags, particularly when working around the dash.

There have been a number of cases here where the air bags were accidentally triggered and has resulted in some serious injuries and there have been a number of people killed in the USA.

If you don’t have a multi meter, go and buy one, they are as low as $10 these days and thats cheap insurance.

Matt, as you live on the Gold Coast, if you haven’t got a multi meter, I’ll give you one.

It’s just too risky using a test light in this day and age.

[LiveFreeAndRoam Avid PP Poster! Find all posts View Profile Close LiveFreeAndRoam]

Re: Redarc BCDC-1220 20amp DC-DC 3 Stage Battery Charger Install

Just use your test light to check for power on the wire

Sorry to jump in here Rod and Matt, but under no circumstances should a test light be used on any vehicle fitted with air bags, particularly when working around the dash.

There have been a number of cases here where the air bags were accidentally triggered and has resulted in some serious injuries and there have been a number of people killed in the USA.

If you don’t have a multi meter, go and buy one, they are as low as $10 these days and thats cheap insurance.

Matt, as you live on the Gold Coast, if you haven’t got a multi meter, I’ll give you one.

It’s just too risky using a test light in this day and age.

Thanks for the warning drivesafe.

Fortunately, I do have a multimeter.

It's amazing just how many little gotchas await the novice auto-sparky. A good thing we have these forums to make us all 'experts' .

Cheers,
LFaR.

[Chuck Advanced Member Find all posts View Profile Close Chuck]

Re: Redarc BCDC-1220 20amp DC-DC 3 Stage Battery Charger Install

Just ordered one of these from Ashdown-Ingram $396 which is cheaper than I could get on ebay.

Chuck

[01Rod Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close 01Rod]

Re: Redarc BCDC-1220 20amp DC-DC 3 Stage Battery Charger Install

Just use your test light to check for power on the wire

Sorry to jump in here Rod and Matt, but under no circumstances should a test light be used on any vehicle fitted with air bags, particularly when working around the dash.

Thanks drivesafe, I see where you are coming from....

I was only talking about checking power on the aircon low pressure switch in front of the radiator...
All airbag incidents I have investigated here in Brisbane have been due to technicans not shunting the modules to ground prior to work or silly things like unbolting modules and turning them over??

But better safe than sorry..

Rod

[01Rod Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close 01Rod]

Re: Redarc BCDC-1220 20amp DC-DC 3 Stage Battery Charger Install

Just ordered one of these from Ashdown-Ingram $360 which is cheaper than I could get on ebay.

Chuck

I think Ashdown are one of the distributors for this product.

If you have a trade account or access to someone that does it would be even cheaper maybe?

make sure you post some pics of your install...

Rod

[Chuck Advanced Member Find all posts View Profile Close Chuck]

Re: Redarc BCDC-1220 20amp DC-DC 3 Stage Battery Charger Install

Arrived today happy as didn't even charge freight, now I just have to fit it.

[LiveFreeAndRoam Avid PP Poster! Find all posts View Profile Close LiveFreeAndRoam]

Re: Redarc BCDC-1220 20amp DC-DC 3 Stage Battery Charger Install

I'm one step closer... with only the wiring to be done.

Firstly, Springers Solar are selling these for $365 inclusive of GST. Unfortunately, they won't have availability until end of June. When I called Ashdown, they first offered it to me for $495, but they promptly matched Springer's price. All in all, very happy with the pricing.

Secondly, I spoke with the Redarc National Manager, who was very helpful and willing to discuss the product, wiring, answer questions, etc. He also gave me his email address if I have follow up questions. Unquestionably, this is top-notch customer service!

Thirdly, I found Auto and Marine Electrics here on the Gold Coast. They spent over an hour with me; answering questions, walking me through different scenarios, tested the chassis and proved it is an excellent earth point. They were very interested in the BCDC-1220 as they hadn't seen one before. I bought the All Rounder MRV70 ($203), cable, fuses, lugs. They also crimped the lugs and offered to crimp other connections once I have the wires installed and cut to length.

I'm seriously impressed with the quality of service all round.

Finally, after speaking with the Redarc Manager, he mentioned that for 12V systems, the blue wire (ignition/voltage) should be connected directly to the +ve terminal of the main battery. Connecting it to the ignition wire is only required for 24V systems. You see, the BCDC-1220 also has a built-in isolator, so when the voltage on the main battery drops below 12.7V (as detected on the red wire), it isolates the two batteries.

[Edit: The manual also states this under the INSTALLATION heading. It says: NOTE: For 12V installation the Ignition/Voltage wire must be connected to 12V supply. For 24V installation the Ignition/Voltage wire must be connected to 24V vehicle ignition -otherwise you'd drain your 24V main battery down to 12.7V before it cuts-out!]

With all the various inputs, my wiring diagram is conjured below:



[Updated wiring diagram: As per Redarc National Manager, Redarc now recommends using 40Amp fuse on the input and 30Amp fuse on the output. This provides a little more headroom, and this modification will be updated in Redarc's instructions].

Cheers,
LFaR.

[OldGreyGuy Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close OldGreyGuy]

Re: Redarc BCDC-1220 20amp DC-DC 3 Stage Battery Charger Install

In the picture below, is this the socket you're talking about (driver's side, front of radiator on D4D)?
Did you keep the socket or snip it off and just use the positive wire, leaving the other disconnected?

LF&R, sorry I have been tied up on a project and so haven't had much chance to login much over the past couple of months.

Yep, that was the one, I kept the socket as it was and just tapped into the line. I figured that the socket was there for something so I left it.

Cheers OldGreyGuy

[OldGreyGuy Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close OldGreyGuy]

Re: Redarc BCDC-1220 20amp DC-DC 3 Stage Battery Charger Install

[Updated wiring diagram: As per Redarc National Manager, Redarc now recommends using 40Amp fuse on the input and 30Amp fuse on the output. This provides a little more headroom, and this modification will be updated in Redarc's instructions].

Cheers,
LFaR.

Hmm, may need to update some fuses this weekend, although I've had no problem so far with blown fuses.

[Chuck Advanced Member Find all posts View Profile Close Chuck]

Re: Redarc BCDC-1220 20amp DC-DC 3 Stage Battery Charger Install

[Updated wiring diagram: As per Redarc National Manager, Redarc now recommends using 40Amp fuse on the input and 30Amp fuse on the output. This provides a little more headroom, and this modification will be updated in Redarc's instructions].

Cheers,
LFaR.

Just check on the connections for different batteries as I have different wiring, for AGM/Gel = not connected & lead acid = negative.


Chuck

[LiveFreeAndRoam Avid PP Poster! Find all posts View Profile Close LiveFreeAndRoam]

Re: Redarc BCDC-1220 20amp DC-DC 3 Stage Battery Charger Install

Just check on the connections for different batteries as I have different wiring, for AGM/Gel = not connected & lead acid = negative.

Nice catch Chuck. I'll fix the master copy... hopefully, the diagram will be updated everywhere here so as not to cause any concern.

Bottom-line, rely on the official Redarc Instructions.

Cheers,
LFaR.

[LiveFreeAndRoam Avid PP Poster! Find all posts View Profile Close LiveFreeAndRoam]

Re: Redarc BCDC-1220 20amp DC-DC 3 Stage Battery Charger Install

Thanks especially to Rod for this thread and tips. Also thanks to the help from Chuck, OGG, and Mark (from Redarc). Here is my installation...

My first impression of this device amazed me how small and how light the unit was.

I used Rod's mounting position on the sidewall. Position it on the driver-side of the engine bay sidewall so as not to interfere with the bonnet-strut when the bonnet is closed. Also be careful of the snorkel position (if you have one or plan to fit one). Drill a couple of holes for the top two bolt positions. The lower two bolt positions hang free. The unit is quite light, so I don't feel there is any issue with securing only the two top bolts.

The fixture layers were: Allen-key bolt-head, small-washer (since bolt-head was narrow), Redarc, large washer, engine-bay side-wall, large washer, nyloc nut.

Fixing it to the sidewall was especially complicated for me because of the position of my snorkel. If you have a snorkel, be very careful with the drill, so as not to put a hole in your snorkel. Also check where the hole will go, so your hand can reach inside the fender-space to hold the nyloc nut; this was tricky for me.

To access the space behind the fender, you will need to partially unscrew/unclip your splash-guard. Unclip it enough so your forearm can fit into the cavernous space and you can reach your bolts to attach washer and nyloc nut. This is all done blind, so take your time to feel your way around.

My hot-tips:

:idea: Use Allen key bolts to attach to the sidewall. The problem with hex-head bolts is the Redarc 'bulges' over the bolt head, so you can't easily fit a socket.
:idea: Use masking tape to mark and protect the area to be drilled.
:idea: Use a depth-gauge (if you have one) on your drill and do not force the drill. (Especially important if you have a snorkel).
:idea: After drilling, vacuum up the swarf and paint/protect the hole. (Swarf is like a seed for rust... you want to remove it all).

Operationally, I noticed my scan-gauge now regularly displays the voltage of my main battery at ~12.7-12.9V. Previously, the voltage would sit fairly constant at ~13.2V. I presume this change is due to the way the Redarc isolator works, in that once the main battery drops below 12.7V, the isolator is activated.

And here is this little beauty fully installed. You can see the "Calcium LED" is lit, (it actually flashes - so I had to time this shot ). When the car is running, the "Boost", "Absorption" and "Float" LEDs flash to indicate the charging phase.



From the side, you can see how low it is to ensure it does not interfere with the bonnet-strut when the bonnet closes:



And the engine-bay now feels complete



All in all, very pleased with first impressions of this product. Now I want around 5 years from it and at least 4 years from my battery, to justify the costs.

Cheers,
LFaR.

[Boomslang Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close Boomslang]

Re: Redarc BCDC-1220 20amp DC-DC 3 Stage Battery Charger Install

You should not only quantify the cost in terms of replacement costs but also in the extra runtime you will get for your fridge etc just because the battery will be properly charged everytime you need it. My guess is that you'll be looking around 20% extra runtime. Alternators are not very smart chargers. Priceless.