Alternator Output

[LeighW Avid PP Poster! Find all posts View Profile Close LeighW]

Higher belt tension, more load on the belt, higher wear on the bearings of anything else driven via the belt, more fuel etc.

As for volts, depends on the regulator their using.

Leigh

[LeighW Avid PP Poster! Find all posts View Profile Close LeighW]

Well got me, I just had a look on a couple of the parts suppliers, and my 2008
120, and no parts listing for an un-loader for the alternator, I'll have to get under and have a look to see if one is fitted.

Sounds similar to a free wheel gear on a bike.

Ok I stand corrected, I just checked mine out and yes it does appear to have a decoupler on it, never noticed it before, something else to break down

Wouldn't it have been a lot cheaper to just replace the pulley?

Leigh

[snewby Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close snewby]

They told me the old alternator could not be repaired, since then I have seen lots of info on how to remove and replace the "ADP" or "OAP" (pulley). ... with special tools.
I did not keep the old alternator or I would look into this further.
ebay has a pully for the 120 listed..
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/NULINE-TO...item1c3cb3d649
From the Dayco Site... (also listing tool)
http://www.dayco.com.au/products.asp...282&P=18040276

Part number Width Inside Diameter Outside Diameter Tool OAP Connection Type
OAP013 ......41.3mm 17mm ...........52.5mm .............OAPT17 ..17mm Hex

It seems these worn pullys can slip when under load and so reduce alternator output.
Some people recommend replacing all pulleys, tensioner and Alternator override pulley every time you replace the belt...
An expensive exercise !

with the tensioner assembly at >$300 , I wonder if Nuline do just the pulley for the tensioner?

[LeighW Avid PP Poster! Find all posts View Profile Close LeighW]

Toyodi show the pulley clutch for $90, I would have been buying the clutch,
and changing out the bearings (if possible) and brushes. Bit of a clean and basically
you have a new alternator.

Leigh

[muzza_ Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close muzza_]

hi all just fitted an Alternator Voltage booster i bought from HKB Electronics . Alternator output Previously was 13.8 volts now 14.55 Volts

[FC_Holden Member Find all posts View Profile Close FC_Holden]

OK have had one of Leigh's diodes fitted for awhile ( over 6 months) with no dramas, but than the aux battery decided to boil ( new battery) took out diode and refitted fuse and took out 2nd battery, battery OK, diode OK. But now voltage runs at 14.6 when first started and than drops to 13.9 / 14.2 volts (fuse fitted), it is currently about -1C to 5C when voltage readings taken
Aux battery is fine after being on CTek for awhile

Any ideas why voltage is all of sudden running were it is?

[drivesafe Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close drivesafe]

Hi FC and while I do not know if the initial boost cycle of Toyota’s alternator charging algorithm has an ambient temperature component to it but it is in many other makes.

If it is also in the Toyota program, then lower climatic temperatures will cause the initial boost to rise above what it would be during warmer periods.

But even with a rise in voltage, 14.6v is below most battery maximum tolerances.

Most batteries these days have a maximum tolerance of 14.7v at room temperature ( 25C ) and the maximum tolerance of a battery rises as the ambient temperature falls.

In Australia, some vehicles will have a boost voltage cycle as high as 15.5v and in Europe, in winter, this can be as high as 16.5v

As to why your battery boiled at that voltage, this is usually an indication that the battery has a problem, so just keep an eye on it.

Did the boiling occur during a long trip or something your noticed while driving around town?

[LeighW Avid PP Poster! Find all posts View Profile Close LeighW]

Hi FC,

This problem is with regards your Prado?

You wrote:

"OK have had one of Leigh's diodes fitted for awhile ( over 6 months) with no dramas, but than the aux battery decided to boil ( new battery)"

When you say new battery has that battery been in the car for 6 months or recently replaced? What type of battery is the aux?

What is the situation with the cranking battery, if the aux is boiling due to an overcharge situation one would expect the cranking battery also to be boiling?

"took out diode and refitted fuse and took out 2nd battery, battery OK, diode OK"

Please elaborate on the above?

" But now voltage runs at 14.6 when first started and than drops to 13.9 / 14.2 volts (fuse fitted), it is currently about -1C to 5C when voltage"

This is around the voltage I would expect to see under those ambient conditions

"Aux battery is fine after being on CTek for awhile"

Do you have a DCDC charger installed or are you referring to a 240V charger?

What voltages were you getting with the booster installed under the same ambient conditions?

Cheers
Leigh

[BlakMoth Avid PP Poster! Find all posts View Profile Close BlakMoth]

Hi LeighW i have a redarc 1225 bcdc installed, is it actually worth my while buying one of your boosters? Or is it not required as the redarc does what it needs to?

[LeighW Avid PP Poster! Find all posts View Profile Close LeighW]

Hi BlakMoth,

If your not having any issues with your cranking battery or the 1225 cutting out due to low
supply voltage then it would be pointless fitting the booster.

Both will achieve the same end result, the booster and a VSR would just do it faster in most cases.

Cheers
Leigh

[FC_Holden Member Find all posts View Profile Close FC_Holden]

Hi FC and while I do not know if the initial boost cycle of Toyota’s alternator charging algorithm has an ambient temperature component to it but it is in many other makes.

If it is also in the Toyota program, then lower climatic temperatures will cause the initial boost to rise above what it would be during warmer periods.

But even with a rise in voltage, 14.6v is below most battery maximum tolerances.

Most batteries these days have a maximum tolerance of 14.7v at room temperature ( 25C ) and the maximum tolerance of a battery rises as the ambient temperature falls.

In Australia, some vehicles will have a boost voltage cycle as high as 15.5v and in Europe, in winter, this can be as high as 16.5v

As to why your battery boiled at that voltage, this is usually an indication that the battery has a problem, so just keep an eye on it.

Did the boiling occur during a long trip or something your noticed while driving around town?

Drivesafe
Thanks for your reply, wife driving Prado so only around town, have taken aux battery out of Prado and all seems to be fine with main battery but voltages are higher than what I am used to seeing on the gauge plugged into the cigarette socket
Thanks again
John. M

[FC_Holden Member Find all posts View Profile Close FC_Holden]

Hi FC,

This problem is with regards your Prado?

You wrote:

"OK have had one of Leigh's diodes fitted for awhile ( over 6 months) with no dramas, but than the aux battery decided to boil ( new battery)"

When you say new battery has that battery been in the car for 6 months or recently replaced? What type of battery is the aux?

What is the situation with the cranking battery, if the aux is boiling due to an overcharge situation one would expect the cranking battery also to be boiling?

"took out diode and refitted fuse and took out 2nd battery, battery OK, diode OK"

Please elaborate on the above?

" But now voltage runs at 14.6 when first started and than drops to 13.9 / 14.2 volts (fuse fitted), it is currently about -1C to 5C when voltage"

This is around the voltage I would expect to see under those ambient conditions

"Aux battery is fine after being on CTek for awhile"

Do you have a DCDC charger installed or are you referring to a 240V charger?

What voltages were you getting with the booster installed under the same ambient conditions?

Cheers
Leigh

Leigh
Thanks for your reply, first off there is nothing wrong with your diode device and I am happy with its operation.
Problem is with our 2009 120 diesel Prado which runs out of warranty next month, aux battery is only a couple of months old, the CTek referred to is a 240 volt unit and battery after topping up with water has come upto full charge and holds charge OK, as in my reply to drivesafe I have removed aux battery from Prado and I am going to sneak it into my Colorado ute ( without the wife noticing).

"took out diode and refitted fuse and took out 2nd battery, battery OK, diode OK"
Leigh did the above as an test to see if the diode was having a hernia, but it was OK but as stated even with just the normal fuse the voltages are now higher than what I used to see approx. 13.9 volts max but if you have seen these type of voltages with these temperatures we are seeing here in ACT than it must be just normal and I was not watching the gauge as much as I am now.

Was just after feedback as to if others were seeing these type of voltages at these temperatures or if I need to see Toyota before the warranty expires in case the regulator is playing up.

Again thanks for your interest and feedback and I am still happy with your product and I do not believe that it had anything to do with what I am now seeing, this is what happens when all of a sudden something out of the ordinary happens ( aux battery playing up) and I start taking more notice. Sometime ignorance is bliss

[LeighW Avid PP Poster! Find all posts View Profile Close LeighW]

No problem, on revisiting your voltage readings I think I may have misinterpreted the
readings, I would have thought around 14.5V cold and 14V hot without the booster fitted?

Try inserting and removing the fuse a couple of times as the contacts might be a bit
dirty, same for the plug on the back of the alternator.

What voltage were you seeing with the motor hot and the booster fitted?

Cheers
leigh

[BlakMoth Avid PP Poster! Find all posts View Profile Close BlakMoth]

Thanks Leigh. It did cut out at idle when I turned on all my spot lights so I guess it's might be a good idea to get one. Rather cheap compared to other things on my ever increasing to do list

[FC_Holden Member Find all posts View Profile Close FC_Holden]

No problem, on revisiting your voltage readings I think I may have misinterpreted the
readings, I would have thought around 14.5V cold and 14V hot without the booster fitted?

Try inserting and removing the fuse a couple of times as the contacts might be a bit
dirty, same for the plug on the back of the alternator.

What voltage were you seeing with the motor hot and the booster fitted?

Cheers
leigh

Thanks agin Leigh, voltages with diode installed was 14.2 on start up and than once warmed up etc it would drop back to approx. 13.5 (from memory). Only get to drive Prado on the rare weekends now and working all this weekend so will try the fuses etc when I am next allowed near it, about a weeks time