I posted earlier about smoke on start-up on my November 2006 Grande (130,000 Km).
http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread...-Prado/page111
For some reason the problem seemed to go for a couple of weeks about 1500 Km after an injector flush, but then returned and last week I went to yet another diesel expert, who convinced me that it was the injector seal problem. Unfortunately he was about to go off to Thailand for 2 weeks, so I asked if it was reasonable to have a go at fixing it myself, so he sold me the new seals, O rings and fancy double aluminium seals for the fuel return line.
Had to get one tool I didn't have, that was a 17mm offset or "crow's foot" open-end spanner for the fuel lines. Eventually bought a set for $55. Probably never use them again (I hope).
No 1 injector was firmly stuck, but the others could be removed readily enough by hand once the clamps were undone. The judicious use of a drift and rubber mallet used to rotate No 1 enabled its release. I have attached pictures of the injector and a close-up of the O-ring, fully explaining the oil leak into the cylinders. There was no visible sludge in the valve box, so I removed as much of the carbon as I could, and proceeded to change oil and filter. Hopefully will not give lubrication problems.
TIP: On reassembly, do the fuel return pipe unions up loosely to the injectors before tightening down the clamps. Alignment is critical. It is not essential to undo the union attaching the pipe to the head.
The car has its original battery, which didn't like priming the system on reassembly, not helped by the fact that I had not watched as I did up No 2 injector pipe/common-rail junction, which leaked profusely.
TIP: using the crow's foot spanner, watch that it doesn't hit anything and block reaching full torque on the bolt.
After fixing that the engine started readily enough, though priming takes a considerable amount of running, probably close to 60 seconds, achieved after an overnight charge of the battery.
For some reason the engine warning light remained on after starting, as did the VSC/TRC and VSC OFF lights. I don't have access to a scantool, but after about an hour I went back, tried starting again and the lights had gone out, and have not recurred (while running, of course).
Having convinced myself I was going to have to replace the injectors at a cost of thousands, I am pleased that it appears to be fixed for less than $200 including the tools and oil change.
I hope my experience may help others with the problem.
Russell
http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread...-Prado/page111
For some reason the problem seemed to go for a couple of weeks about 1500 Km after an injector flush, but then returned and last week I went to yet another diesel expert, who convinced me that it was the injector seal problem. Unfortunately he was about to go off to Thailand for 2 weeks, so I asked if it was reasonable to have a go at fixing it myself, so he sold me the new seals, O rings and fancy double aluminium seals for the fuel return line.
Had to get one tool I didn't have, that was a 17mm offset or "crow's foot" open-end spanner for the fuel lines. Eventually bought a set for $55. Probably never use them again (I hope).
No 1 injector was firmly stuck, but the others could be removed readily enough by hand once the clamps were undone. The judicious use of a drift and rubber mallet used to rotate No 1 enabled its release. I have attached pictures of the injector and a close-up of the O-ring, fully explaining the oil leak into the cylinders. There was no visible sludge in the valve box, so I removed as much of the carbon as I could, and proceeded to change oil and filter. Hopefully will not give lubrication problems.
TIP: On reassembly, do the fuel return pipe unions up loosely to the injectors before tightening down the clamps. Alignment is critical. It is not essential to undo the union attaching the pipe to the head.
The car has its original battery, which didn't like priming the system on reassembly, not helped by the fact that I had not watched as I did up No 2 injector pipe/common-rail junction, which leaked profusely.
TIP: using the crow's foot spanner, watch that it doesn't hit anything and block reaching full torque on the bolt.
After fixing that the engine started readily enough, though priming takes a considerable amount of running, probably close to 60 seconds, achieved after an overnight charge of the battery.
For some reason the engine warning light remained on after starting, as did the VSC/TRC and VSC OFF lights. I don't have access to a scantool, but after about an hour I went back, tried starting again and the lights had gone out, and have not recurred (while running, of course).
Having convinced myself I was going to have to replace the injectors at a cost of thousands, I am pleased that it appears to be fixed for less than $200 including the tools and oil change.
I hope my experience may help others with the problem.
Russell
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