Thanks Roo for the heads up. What was the average milage on the vehicles that had this? Any particular year?
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Thanks Roo, good on ya trying to save us some grief again.
2001 posts...a lot of those have been taking your time to help us out for no personal gain...or beating off numpties having a cheap shot at you for sharing your experience. Glad you've got a thick skin and stick around to enlighten less knowledgeable folk like myself
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Originally posted by Max View PostThanks Roo, good on ya trying to save us some grief again.
2001 posts...a lot of those have been taking your time to help us out for no personal gain...or beating off numpties having a cheap shot at you for sharing your experience. Glad you've got a thick skin and stick around to enlighten less knowledgeable folk like myself
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I change it because it's cheap insurance against a failure and not a waste of money as has been suggested elsewhere on the forum. If anyone just HAS to reuse the hydraulic tensioner, don't put it in the 20T shop press to push back the rod as suggested in the shop manual. I'm guessing that the tensioner is filled with some sort of high viscosity silicone compound that resists the force of the belt. It needs a steady slow push not brute force. If you push it back with the press I reckon there is a chance to blow out the seal and cause a failure. I thought about it, then put it on the drill press and used the chuck to push it sloowwwly back in (this is the old one which I keep as a spare). You only need to rest your hand on the handle of the press and it will go in without much resistance if you take it steady.
cheers SteveLast edited by t303; 15-05-2013, 07:44 PM.
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I'm coming up to 150 000km and a belt change.
Anyone used these kits:
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/TOYOTA-HI...item4d0a4ecf12
$150 for the entire kit. Not sure if the seals need changing with the belt or only when they leak.2019 GXL, Bullbar, UHF, Redarc Brake Controller, Tow Bar, Secondary Fuel Filter
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Originally posted by gxl_d4d View PostI'm coming up to 150 000km and a belt change.
Anyone used these kits:
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/TOYOTA-HI...item4d0a4ecf12
$150 for the entire kit. Not sure if the seals need changing with the belt or only when they leak.
cheers
Steve
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Thanks Roo, really appreciate your advice. My timing belt is going to get done in 5000km so reading up on how its done. What is the best way to release the initial tension on the pulley ? Do you use a pinch bar or a long screwdriver to compress the tensioner ? I've noted folks have just undone the 2 tensioner screws but I dont understand why you would undo them when the whole unit is under tension, good way to stuff the end of the threads or have the screws and tensioner go flying....
What say ye ???
TA :-) Pete
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Originally posted by t303 View PostI change it because it's cheap insurance against a failure and not a waste of money as has been suggested elsewhere on the forum. If anyone just HAS to reuse the hydraulic tensioner, don't put it in the 20T shop press to push back the rod as suggested in the shop manual. I'm guessing that the tensioner is filled with some sort of high viscosity silicone compound that resists the force of the belt. It needs a steady slow push not brute force. If you push it back with the press I reckon there is a chance to blow out the seal and cause a failure. I thought about it, then put it on the drill press and used the chuck to push it sloowwwly back in (this is the old one which I keep as a spare). You only need to rest your hand on the handle of the press and it will go in without much resistance if you take it steady.
cheers Steve
Originally posted by sandman View PostThanks Roo, really appreciate your advice. My timing belt is going to get done in 5000km so reading up on how its done. What is the best way to release the initial tension on the pulley ? Do you use a pinch bar or a long screwdriver to compress the tensioner ? I've noted folks have just undone the 2 tensioner screws but I dont understand why you would undo them when the whole unit is under tension, good way to stuff the end of the threads or have the screws and tensioner go flying....
What say ye ???
TA :-) Pete
Hey John, another good thread, Thankx for the pointer!
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The way the tensioner works: it doesn't as much push out at the idler arm but more resists the push of the belt movement and prevent it from retracting the rod. Some designs use a simple sprung ball bearing on a ramped rod arrangement: as the tensioner extends the ball runs down the ramp and locks the rod from returning. My Nissan L6 motor has it; pain in the ar*e as you have to disassemble it to reset it. It basically only takes up the slack as required and I have never found any tensioner on any car/motorcycle that sprang out with any excessive force to it.Last edited by t303; 16-05-2013, 09:58 PM.
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I haven't done a belt change myself on the Prado but on one of my other cars you rotated the engine backwards half a turn by hand and that compressed the spring so you could fit a pin in the tensioner that held the spring compressed. It looks as though there are holes in the Toyota tensioner to do the same. Then rotate the correct way again by hand until the timing marks line up and the tensioner and belt can be removed easily. The new tensioner already had a pin fitted and you simply removed that once it was all lined up. Then again rotated a couple of turns the right way by hand to set the tensioner and check the timing marks were still good.My 150 build - http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread.php?27423-A-Random-approach-to-a-Bluestorm-150-GXL-D4D-automatic
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Originally posted by mjrandom View PostI haven't done a belt change myself on the Prado but on one of my other cars you rotated the engine backwards half a turn by hand and that compressed the spring so you could fit a pin in the tensioner that held the spring compressed. It looks as though there are holes in the Toyota tensioner to do the same. Then rotate the correct way again by hand until the timing marks line up and the tensioner and belt can be removed easily. The new tensioner already had a pin fitted and you simply removed that once it was all lined up. Then again rotated a couple of turns the right way by hand to set the tensioner and check the timing marks were still good.
cheers
Steve
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Thanks guys for the input so far.. think taking the 2 screws out carefully will suffice :-)
I'm kicking myself though, I bought a super cheap 3/8 torque wrench to do the job and found I needed a smaller wrench for the tensioner bolts. So out I went and bought a Kincrome one to find a "Quality Assurance test certificate" in the unit....The SCA has nothing and the Kincrome one does....Not sure if I'll trust the SCA one now...who knows what its really doing at 35nm when tightening the pulley screw :-)
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Originally posted by sandman View PostThanks guys for the input so far.. think taking the 2 screws out carefully will suffice :-)
I'm kicking myself though, I bought a super cheap 3/8 torque wrench to do the job and found I needed a smaller wrench for the tensioner bolts. So out I went and bought a Kincrome one to find a "Quality Assurance test certificate" in the unit....The SCA has nothing and the Kincrome one does....Not sure if I'll trust the SCA one now...who knows what its really doing at 35nm when tightening the pulley screw :-)
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Thanks Roo, its on a 120....Like you, always use high temp bearing grease on the screws, my old man taught me to do it....Going to use all new original parts to do the job, I'm just anal about this for teh timing belt. To save $50 to have something break and let the valves slap the piston, its just not worth it :-)
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Originally posted by t303 View PostThey aren't that dear really when you can hand them down to the great, great, great..... grandkids.
I gave my son a Sidchrome set for his 18th birthday...Trust me the xbox360 has got 100 times more use that then spanners :-) One day he'll appreciate it :-)
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