Water Separators - the costs

[OldGreyFart Advanced Member Find all posts View Profile Close OldGreyFart]

I have plans to have a water separator added to my 120 (2008 D4D) at its next service which should be about late July or early August. I have discussed this with the specialist diesel coy that services my vehicle. They have a water separator (can't remember brand) but fitted it will be $650. I will go ahead with this because they are so trustworthy in my view.

However, I was just pondering why there are so many separators around which are significantly cheaper than this.

What be the difference?

[gxl_d4d Advanced Member Find all posts View Profile Close gxl_d4d]

$650 is steep. This setup will probably have a water alarm hence the price. You can get FM100 kits for around $300 if you can fit it yourself. If you buy CAT parts, you'll get an identicle setup to the FM100 for around $150 but you'll need to run around to a few places to get the various bits you need.

[Ghost Advanced Member Find all posts View Profile Close Ghost]

It's a fairly easy job, the hardest part would be making a bracket if you can't buy a bracket. I think all up for mine without the extra filters plus the steel for the bracket was under $200


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Syzprado Member Find all posts View Profile Close Syzprado]

I set up my cat filter/water separator on my 120 1kd in an afternoon last year cost was about $100-120 picked up the parts all locally.
The filter came with a bracket that just needed a spacer to fit in some pre-existing tapped holes in the engine bay next to the original filter.
Full thread and parts list.
http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread...The-Full-Story

[lippa Member Find all posts View Profile Close lippa]

Sorry if this is a hi jack, I like Terry am researching my extra filter kit as we speak.

Now my local 4x4 store recommends the primary setup with a 30 micron filter, diesel care suggest a secondary system would be best at 2-5 microns.

So which do you blokes suggest?

[Rusty62 Advanced Member Find all posts View Profile Close Rusty62]

See below. Copied on a iPad so not sure how this will look.

All up cost under $200 but I fabricated the bracket so add at least a $100.

Rusty.

Finally fabricated a bracket for my new filter. Parker Racor 230R series with a R20S element. 2 micron. With primer.
Bracket uses the two bolts that hold the original filter with a third bolt on a leg mounted to the inner guard.

Placed in line after the Toyota filter. Some recommend fitting in line before the original filter but cannot understand why you would put a finer filter in front of the standard one.

The 3 bolts are easy to remove for servicing, only need to drop the fuel lines, remove all 3 bolts, unclip the sensors and remove complete from the car and service on the bench. Same to reinstall and with both units having primers easy to refill.

[Bushbasher Out of control poster! Find all posts View Profile Close Bushbasher]

The consensus has in the majority been to put the extra filter in line BEFORE the factory under-bonnet filter. Even the Toyota service manager at Goldfields advised on fitting it before and not after. This way, if all else fails, the blame will lay on the Toyota OEM as it will be the last line of defence. Also, at @ $23 for a Racor filter element and over a $100 for the Toyota OEM, it's cheaper in the long term as you won't need to replace the factory filter for a long time.

[Rusty62 Advanced Member Find all posts View Profile Close Rusty62]

I don't pay more than $30 for either filter so will keep replacing both at service intervals or after remote travel. Doesn't make sense to have the finer filter first in line. All filtration for compressed air has the course filter followed by fine filters. As the car has 190000 not worried for warranty from Mr Toyota but more concerned with best practice on the filtration.

Rusty.

Copied a web site explanation on primary and secondary filtration. In short they recommend a pre ( before OEM) if the filter is 30 micron and post ( after OEM ) if 2-5 micron.



Which Kit Should I choose? Primary (pre) Filtration or Secondary (Final) Filtration?


Diesel Care offer D.I.Y. fuel filter kits in two variants for most of the vehicle range we cover; our Fuel Filter Bracket Kits can be plumbed as either a primary or secondary filter system and the question of which one to choose is sometime asked.

To answer that question its important to know the difference between the two types of filtration systems.

In short, Primary (Pre) filters are plumbed before the factory filter and will use a relatively coarser filtration at 30 microns.

Secondary (Final) filters are plumbed after the factory filter and will use a finer filtration at 5 or 2 microns.

They both have their advantages and provide additional protection from contaminated fuel that could cause expensive repairs.

[Rusty62 Advanced Member Find all posts View Profile Close Rusty62]

See below link for more information re pre and post filtration.

I am not doing this to get at anyone but just would like everyone to understand not everything the Toyota service say is the correct thing for your car.




http://www.dieselcare.com.au/which-f...y-or-secondary







I do not work for these people or any diesel center. I am a ex Fitter and Turner tradesman who has worked in pneumatics for the last 10 years and have learnt a thing or two on filtration.

Rusty

[Bushbasher Out of control poster! Find all posts View Profile Close Bushbasher]

That's good stuff but we are actually installing a 3rd filter, in between the two OEM, or in your case after the secondary filter.

[r4ndll Avid PP Poster! Find all posts View Profile Close r4ndll]

Sorry if this is a hi jack, I like Terry am researching my extra filter kit as we speak.

Now my local 4x4 store recommends the primary setup with a 30 micron filter, diesel care suggest a secondary system would be best at 2-5 microns.

So which do you blokes suggest?

This may help?

http://youtu.be/Lnb0MSo4GHs

[BlakMoth Avid PP Poster! Find all posts View Profile Close BlakMoth]

Excuse my ignorance but why do you need another filter? Is it poor fuel quality or something?

[r4ndll Avid PP Poster! Find all posts View Profile Close r4ndll]

Excuse my ignorance but why do you need another filter? Is it poor fuel quality or something?

Watch the link above for a decent explanation but basically preventative insurance for one of two reasons:

Dirty diesel: Your injectors have clearance of 4-5 microns. Toyota genuine vehicle filter is about 10 microns. Particles in your diesel will increase injector wear. Installing a second 2 micron filter reduces/prevents this.

Water Trap: Water in a CRD system = Bad. Water can get in the fuel, especially in the outback. The extreme temp changes cause condensation to form in tanks and get into the fuel

[Fred63 Advanced Member Find all posts View Profile Close Fred63]

The manual that came with my tractor gave some good advise to the reduce the condensation in the fuel tank.
When not in use ensure the tank is at least 3/4 full. less air in the tank = less condensation.
This is not possible when travelling but when at home i try to keep the Prado with about 3/4 of a tank as it is not my daily driver.

[Pedro Advanced Member Find all posts View Profile Close Pedro]

I have plans to have a water separator added to my 120 (2008 D4D) at its next service which should be about late July or early August. I have discussed this with the specialist diesel coy that services my vehicle. They have a water separator (can't remember brand) but fitted it will be $650. I will go ahead with this because they are so trustworthy in my view.

However, I was just pondering why there are so many separators around which are significantly cheaper than this.

What be the difference?

Terry I had one fitted by Gold Coast Diesel . It is fitted with a warning buzzer and light if water contamination is detected allowing me to switch off immediately .
Here is a link http://www.goldcoastdieselspecialist.com.au/

Pedro