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Here's as far as I get:
Won't let me select the relevant model, or go back or go forward.
Won't let me select the relevant model, or go back or go forward.
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Dave
Views expressed are mine alone and are not intended to compromise the integrity of my employer nor offend those who may read such views.
Bugger Bali, get out and see Australia before we sell it all to China. -
Dave,
Isn't this the same unit John the Roo has? The link to the seller was listed somewhere on this website and I was going to get one as well (for injector testing purposes). Surely there is a way to reset it (just like with bloody iphones), you just need to know the magic combination that resets it. Have you tried emailing the seller?Comment
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I've done the reset several times. Having communicated with the seller whose Chinese English is, well, Chinese with a bit of English thrown in. Denso Australia may be the next port of call but I won't get it sorted before Saturday's departure.Dave
Views expressed are mine alone and are not intended to compromise the integrity of my employer nor offend those who may read such views.
Bugger Bali, get out and see Australia before we sell it all to China.Comment
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That is my unit, complete with both cards and access to the internal lithium battery. Made in Japan for Denso.Dave
Views expressed are mine alone and are not intended to compromise the integrity of my employer nor offend those who may read such views.
Bugger Bali, get out and see Australia before we sell it all to China.Comment
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John,Originally posted by Talktheroo View Post
Are these the bees knees or simply units that all of us can use at home/on the road? Are they simple enough to use ie can someone accidently enter/reset some ECU parameters that can potentially cause damage?
Also these are slightly different to the ones somebody else has put a link to few months ago (I'm guessing these are the shitty ones you're talking about)?Comment
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Dave what happens if you pull the battery and leave it for a while then start again?My 150 build - http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread.php?27423-A-Random-approach-to-a-Bluestorm-150-GXL-D4D-automaticComment
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RooOriginally posted by Talktheroo View Post
Do you know whether you can use this beast to program the injector compensation codes into the ECU?
It would be well worth the money if it could (and you did a DIY job on your injector replacement)!
NikComment
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This question is exactly what I want to know. If it be used as above then it would be well worth the money for injectors and other things.Originally posted by Nik View PostShifter.
2007, GXL, D4D Auto, Racor 230 filter with 10 mic (98%) cartridge,Comment
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Yes, the tester will program the codes for new injectors when you fit them. When I still had my 120 series, I purchased my tester to make sure the codes in the system matched my current injectors, and they did. I was also going to program the new injectors but went down the route of buying a new 150 series instead.
Bushbasher, as mjrandom said, disconnect the battery if you can, and let the tester sit for an hour at least and then hook the battery back up again. The battery goes flat in mine very quickly when not being used for a while.
My tester sometimes get a bit confused like yours when I pick a vehicle that does not match mine. I just turn the power off and start again.Here for a good time, not a long time!
2013 Toyota Prado GXL D4D AutoComment
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Expert opinion required, I have read through the post by SkyWalkerrun that summarizes the issues with these engines.
I have a 2001 1KD-FTV and it is showing some symptoms of issues with the injection system.
On start-up after it has been left for a while a cloud of white smoke is produced.
It doesn't always happen though.
Idle is a little rough and performance feels a bit sluggish when compared to my older 1KZ-TE
Ive been told that white smoke is most likely due to excessive diesel. The diesel expert i spoke to pointed to two candidates the injectors or the Suction Control Valve. The engine is not overly rattly compared to the youtube videos of the D4D rattle.Comment
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Gday redstorm
Originally posted by redstorm View PostIf excessive diesel it could be worn injectors not seating properly (Maybe?) but an injector value check would confirm this!Originally posted by redstorm View Post
I can't see it being a SCV as they only come into play when the engine is running and there is two of them! One is for high pressure and the other is low which is summoned by the ECU depending on engine RPM and engine load!.... Impossible for SCV to dump fuel into the engine when not running?.... Unless fuel injector needle is not seated properly or a seating washer has breached and letting engine oil into the cylinder.
Get an injector value check and then take it from there otherwise it is a guessing game!
Cheers
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Here's what the insides of the injectors look like:
http://www.dieseldistributors.com.au...95000-7780.pdf2019 GXL, Bullbar, UHF, Redarc Brake Controller, Tow Bar, Secondary Fuel FilterComment
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Ultra Grey was the sealant I used. I always use the Ultra Blue but only the grey was available.Originally posted by Talktheroo View Post
NO leaks as yet (I am amazed at myself)!
Dave...Comment
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injector value check via a scan tool is done hot or from cold? I have a Autosparky with a scan tool or is their a particular scan tool required to read the injector values. ThanksOriginally posted by Skywalkerrun View Post
Get an injector value check and then take it from there otherwise it is a guessing game!
CheersComment
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Gday redstorm
A Intelligent Tester tool II or one that you know shows the real-time injector values and it "HAS TO BE DONE" when the engine is cold (Stood over night) and not warm or driven for five minutes prior or what ever!Originally posted by redstorm View Post
The injector values need to be within "+3.0 to -3.0." values!
Cheers
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