On first drive this morning i have found that the turbo has spooled up a lot faster..
also the boost in 2nd and 3rd gear has gone from around 6psi to 12.5 ...
in 5th its runs around 12-13 psi
i havent even turned the adjustment a single notch..
will take it to get dyno tuned and see what it reads..
joey
Featured - issue 140 Australian 4wd Action.
-issue 52 Modified 4wds .
Locked ,Lifted, boosted Brut---"Pradzilla".
[IMG]http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff268/bigfryy/_0481154045-2.jpg[/IMG]
On first drive this morning i have found that the turbo has spooled up a lot faster..
also the boost in 2nd and 3rd gear has gone from around 6psi to 12.5 ...
in 5th its runs around 12-13 psi
Boost coming on faster, especially noticed in the lower gears, is a result of the shuttle/gate valve in the controller stopping waste gate creep. Peak boost won't rise until you adjust the valve to bleed a little boost off.
Mick
[CENTER][B][I][SIZE=1][COLOR=blue]1KZ-TE Turbo Diesel, 5 speed manual, 3.5 inch lift, 265/70/17 Mickey Thompson MTZ, D-Tronic chip, Boost controller, mandrel exhaust, dump pipe, modified intake, ARB steel bar, Magnum winch, Safari snorkel, rear drawers, half cargo barrier, dual batteries, Uniden UHF, Sat Nav, reverse camera, Magellan XL , Tjm bash plates, ARB alloy roof rack, rear telescopic work light and numerous other modifications!!!
Now with 3BAR MAP sensor & 18PSI Boost![/COLOR][/SIZE][/I][/B][/CENTER]
Well now after turning up my diesel chip to allow for more fuel and several laps , i have opened up the boost controller...
1-4 gear is now 13.5psi and peaks around 14.5 underload in 5th..
wont adjust any more now till i have done a bit of driving.....then see what the dyno says...
joey
Featured - issue 140 Australian 4wd Action.
-issue 52 Modified 4wds .
Locked ,Lifted, boosted Brut---"Pradzilla".
[IMG]http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff268/bigfryy/_0481154045-2.jpg[/IMG]
hi guys...have read alot about boost and egt gauges. What i have come up with is autometer is the brand of choice for a boost gauge. Any recommended brands for egt gauges?? Its probably a case of you get what you pay for but im sure there is a tightarse brand out there for a tightarse like me?? Autometer egt gauges are freeking dear!!!!!Thanx Tubs
I'm not using it as an EGT gauge but to control an intercooler fan. It's a great unit, very versatile and half the price of the Thermogaurd unit I fitted a few years back.
hi guys...have read alot about boost and egt gauges. What i have come up with is autometer is the brand of choice for a boost gauge. Any recommended brands for egt gauges?? Its probably a case of you get what you pay for but im sure there is a tightarse brand out there for a tightarse like me?? Autometer egt gauges are freeking dear!!!!!Thanx Tubs
I run auberins brand in mine. Digital has alarm etc. Do a google on auberins (auber instruments) Good thing is the same gauge has other applications (boost, temps, etc), just change the sender and internal setting and you are away laughing. I run a ater temp and EGT. Still saving for the oil pressure and an analogue boost (going where the clock is) :mrgreen:
Hey Joey have you thought about lengthening the hose and running the controller back to in cab i used to have this setup on my RX7 and it was great to be able to dial the boost right up for a quick run of the lights and then wind it back down for normal driving if you know what i mean. Not sure of any 4wd applications for in cab boost control but there is a lot of stuff wwe only do for shits and giggles
Dont list all ya mods, you will only be more upset when i get further
Hi, I know this thread is about 9 months since the last update but I've got some comments and questions. I recently had an Eng-Tek module and boost controller fitted, I then had a 3" mandrel bent system fitted - my supplier insisted that a 3" system without changing the dump pipe was the way to go as he had learned this dyno-ing his own 1KZ-TE. So I went with his recommendation - jury is still out on results.
Firstly; with just the chip and boost controller I found that the engine malfunction light kept coming on while the controller was in position 1 setting, Eng-Tek advised backing the controller off a bit, that meant it was actually turned back to position 0, however Eng-Tek advise that this will still give about 1.5 psi boost over standard.
Second: After fitting the exhaust and an EGT gauge we found that with the controller in the 1 setting and under aggressive acceleration the EGT alarm was sounded and MAL light came on so the 0 setting was chosen to address this. A bit disappointing for me but Eng-Tek advise that they are trialling an improved boost controller and will swap if it works out.
Thirdly: The exhaust has opened up its own range of problems, the rear of my vehicle is getting coated with diesel fumes, for instance a fine smear in just 20 klms was noticed today on the white bodywork - my fitter/supplier Autocraft (Geelong) tells me that I'll just have to live with this as if they downturn the exhaust it will drone, I suggested that the system was a bit short and should protrude beyond the body-line to emit gases better but they just responded by telling me that the system "grows by about 30mm when hot" - I've never heard of this before, in fact I reckon the laws of physics would dispute this as well. Any information on what I could do next or how I could sort out these issues would be appreciated.
Hi Effex,
I have the same setup with different brands, 3 inch taipan exhaust, tunit chip and boost controller. I looked into this carefully before taking the plunge and if you read the many posts on prado you will see that the dumppipe is the most constrictive part of the exhaust and must be replaced when upgrading- this is one benefit of the taipan system is that it includes a new dump pipe.- so I believe this is a big fall down in your system. I dont have any errors or issues at all, currently running on position 5 on the chip and very happy with the performance increase.
I would dispute the advice given to you and why pay for a chip if it cant be on a position above zero- I would ask for refund and buy different chip, tunit or DP were on my list.There are heaps of postings on these topics- read up and get some ammo b4 going back to the shop.
Regards.
Jay
Hi, thanks for your response and feedback. It's not the chip/module that is on position "0" it's the boost controller and this is the same item that seems to be causing the occasional MAL light. The supplier has provided and fitted a replacement unit (boost controller) in the last few days and it now seems fine running on position "2" while the chip/module has been fine and like yours is set on position "5".
I too researched carefully before taking the plunge but will say that if I was doing this again I would definitely go with a system that was made with a dump pipe such as Beaudesert or Taipan.
Yes, I've read and seen a lot about the dump pipe being constrictive, what's really interesting is that my exhaust supplier and fitter insisted that all his testing results on his own KZ-TE did not equate to needing a dump pipe other than the factory unit.
Whether hes right or wrong I don't know but I will give more feedback after my next towing trip
Hi Effex,
I have the same setup with different brands, 3 inch taipan exhaust, tunit chip and boost controller. I looked into this carefully before taking the plunge and if you read the many posts on prado you will see that the dumppipe is the most constrictive part of the exhaust and must be replaced when upgrading- this is one benefit of the taipan system is that it includes a new dump pipe.- so I believe this is a big fall down in your system. I dont have any errors or issues at all, currently running on position 5 on the chip and very happy with the performance increase.
I would dispute the advice given to you and why pay for a chip if it cant be on a position above zero- I would ask for refund and buy different chip, tunit or DP were on my list.There are heaps of postings on these topics- read up and get some ammo b4 going back to the shop.
Regards.
Jay
the rear of my vehicle is getting coated with diesel fumes, for instance a fine smear in just 20 klms was noticed today on the white bodywork - my fitter/supplier Autocraft (Geelong) tells me that I'll just have to live with this as if they downturn the exhaust it will drone, I suggested that the system was a bit short and should protrude beyond the body-line to emit gases better but they just responded by telling me that the system "grows by about 30mm when hot" - I've never heard of this before, in fact I reckon the laws of physics would dispute this as well. Any information on what I could do next or how I could sort out these issues would be appreciated.
I have fitted a 3" Scottsrods exhaust with the bigger dump pipe and it made a HUGE improvement in performance.
Very happy.
The Scottsrods system has a downturn on it at the rear,no drone what so ever.
No black soot on the rear at all.
In fact im super impressed by how quiet it is inside the cabin.
I would suggest you go to another exhaust place and get a tail piece fitted to angle it down a bit.
As far as boost pressure goes, only very early kz-te's had a boost of 7-9 psi. Most of the later ones will be around the 12 mark. Mine is 12.5 in top under load stock standard. (99 surf). measured at the inlet manifold.
Comment