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how to remove 1KZ intercooler and clean throttle body

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  • Yeah Pete, I had a look around mine over the weekend and came to the same conclusion that there was a fair amount of work to get the intake manifld off. I gather you didn't remove the piping at $600 a set? Is the intercooler removal the same as the 1KZ? Anyway, thanks for doing the ground work/investigation on the D4D!!
    [color=#BF0000][i]2016 200 Series GXL, Turbo Diesel, ARB BB, GME3520 UHF[/i][/color]

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    • The intercooler is simple enough to remove it will take a bit of wriggling to get it off my mechanic had removed before I was able to there.
      also in the way of the manifold removal is the egr intercooler ( uses the engine coolant ) I think toyota made it a pain in the arse to remove on purpose as the egr pipe work goes through the block aswell.
      I looked at blocking the egr of at the intercooler I put it in the to hard basket. It has no room to move.
      overall to remove and clean manifold not easy and exspansive
      removal of the throtle body to get to the egr to block it off there ain't to bad just need to plan ahead for gaskets as when I tried it there was a 4 day wait to get them. I'll get to it eventually not for a long while though, the cans are easy
      as for driving went up lapstone hill ( m4 base of blue mountains ) went up in 6 gear held 110kph no prob before clean it would only hold 100kph
      still unable to find definate answer as to needing to change the oil after spray clean.

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      • There is great write up on the D4D clean procedure on http://www.newhilux.net but you need to be a member. It has pics etc, and is very detailed.

        Here is the link. http://www.newhilux.net/phpbb/viewtopic.php?f=13&t=8630

        Im not up with the protocols of posting content from another forum, but suspect its not encouraged. But it would be worth signing up to newhilux if want to see a detailed procedure.

        Alternatively I could send a PDF of the post.
        Cheers

        Daz

        2004 TD GXL Auto Prado

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        • Just cleaned the throttle @ 207,000 Km, thanks for the instructions, piece of cake. Still a lot of crud in the manifold though and that'll be a job for another day.

          ---
          Green Prado KZJ120 2003 GXL 3.0ltr Auto, Cruise Control, Safari Snorkel, Toyo Alloy Bar, Toyo Aero Roof Racks, King Springs (KTRS-102), OME Nitrochargers, IPF Headlights, Dual Battery, Rubber Mats, Cargo Barrier, Wrangler Silent Armour (265/70R17), Rear Visor, Grille Mesh, Weather Shields.....

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          • Hi Toil,
            Have noticed any difference in power / economy ??
            Phil
            06 120 GXL 1KZ-TE man, modified exhaust, K&N, OME 2",spacers, Sovereign BB, Safari Snorkel, Hella 4000, 33" muddies, ARB 60L fridge / slide ,custom rear drawer, cargo barrier and table, Ironman 9500lb Winch, TJM underbody guards, DIY Radiator bash plate, Outback Ideas recovery points, AJ's sliders, CKMA12, lockers, ext rear breather, UHF, dual batt, SBi12, ARB alloy roof cage, ARB side awning...

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            • Originally posted by fourbyphil View Post
              Hi Toil,
              Have noticed any difference in power / economy ??
              Phil
              Definitely a slight improvement in power with smoother running with increased pwoer. I don't know about fuel economy yet and probably won't until next big trip later this year. I'm the second owner for this vehicle and never knew what it was like to drive before it clogged up, so I guess I may have been a little more aware of the change in performance.

              The vehicle is due a service next week, so I might get the manifold removed and cleaned at the same time and see if that improves things further.
              Last edited by toil; 17-02-2012, 07:44 AM.
              ---
              Green Prado KZJ120 2003 GXL 3.0ltr Auto, Cruise Control, Safari Snorkel, Toyo Alloy Bar, Toyo Aero Roof Racks, King Springs (KTRS-102), OME Nitrochargers, IPF Headlights, Dual Battery, Rubber Mats, Cargo Barrier, Wrangler Silent Armour (265/70R17), Rear Visor, Grille Mesh, Weather Shields.....

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              • Definitely do the manifold. It clogs up just as much.

                cheers
                2009 120 V6 Auto. 265/70/17 Goodyear Silent Armours. Bilsteins and Kings Springs.

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                • Am planning to do this tomorrow if other plans for the weekend get cancelled.Also planning on installing winch as delivered by Santa...

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                  • Well, that's the second time I've read through this thread (I might be slow, but at least I'm rough!) and I can't seem to see where it exactly says which end of the EGR needs to have the 'special' gasket fitted - although I thought the comments/posts seem to suggest it is the inlet manifold side of things not the exhaust manifold. Am I right, or am I right...? and while I'm here, is that the MAF that is in the elbow of the intercooler pipe above the throttle body (inlet manifold side)? Again I did look... but, I seem to have the same trouble at Woolies tryin' to find stuff...doh!!

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                    • No need for a special gasket. Just put a ball bearing or pen nib in the line where the green valve is.
                      2009 120 V6 Auto. 265/70/17 Goodyear Silent Armours. Bilsteins and Kings Springs.

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                      • Thanks TassieTiger, that sounds good - that'll stop the little sucker from working will it? No fault codes with that mod? What about the MAF sensor? Is that where I said it was, on the inlet manifold side of the intercooler in the elbow/bend that heads down to the throttle body thingy?...anyone?

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                        • Cannot FOR THE LIFE OF ME! get the inlet manifold off!!!

                          [QUOTE=tassie tiger;275906]

                          There is a big nut on the rear of the EGR that attached the pipe to the EGR. Spray this with lube the day before if possible. Its a hard thing to get to but is made easier if you remove the injector pipes first. Unbolt the EGR off the manifold and leave it in place in the vehicle.


                          Hey Tassie Tiger (or anyone for that matter) is there ANYTHING ELSE that may be holding the inlet manifold on. I have followed this thread through and followed the procedure and it is all loose but there is just SOMETHING stopping it from coming away at the EGR end! I reckon I've spent an hour and a half at least trying to get it off and see what is holding it on - SUPREME FRUSTRATION!!! I loosened the EGR unit, but that won't come off because something is not allowing enough movement to get it off! I've undone the BIG NUT on the EGR pipe around the back of the motor but still something is holding it there!! I just can't see in under there either - I've tried a little mirror, and I can see a little more with it, but not what I want to see, and that is WHAT IS HOLDING IT ON!!! And now it's too BLOODY HOT out there and I've got no shed to work in and...and...well it just goes on... anyway, when it cools down again (that is if it's not raining then) I'll go and loosen off the exhaust end of the EGR pipe and pull it right out of the way to see if that makes a difference and I'll try to find something in the manual that I just got - if I can work out how to navigate it (thanks Jase!)...but any additional info or ANYTHING will help (except if you say I'm not holding my tongue in the right place...!) PRADO POINT to the rescue...? Thanks Fellas, Paul.

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                          • [QUOTE=paul2;334580][QUOTE=tassie tiger;275906]

                            There is a big nut on the rear of the EGR that attached the pipe to the EGR. Spray this with lube the day before if possible. Its a hard thing to get to but is made easier if you remove the injector pipes first. Unbolt the EGR off the manifold and leave it in place in the vehicle.

                            Ok, well I did get it off and once I did I realised that perhaps the above step by step discription might be missing a step - or I miss interpreted it! So when you spray the big nut on the rear of the EGR, maybe it should also include that once it has been loosened and unscrewed from the manifold, squirting some WD40 or something into where it goes into the inlet manifold to loosen it up would be a good idea. Even once I got the manifold and this pipe off it still took two of us to pull it apart! Oh well...the worst part is that it wasn't really that bad in there, and it's done 260k. So no pics - it wasn't worth it! And no real performance benefit so far...we'll see if the fuel economy improves. Paul.

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                            • 2003 Auto standard tyres 230,000km now.
                              I have been adding Chemtech Diesel Power to my fuel for the last three years. Last year I changed my oil from Penrite to Castrol RX. After 4 oil changes using RX, the fuel consumption started to improve by a significant amount - 15.5 l/100 to 14.2 l/100(towing).
                              I am now getting - car only - 13.3 l/100 (albeit with my travelling gear in boxes in the back) if I sit around 2000 rpm (auto).
                              It has always been a lively performer but maybe I am only noticing it now I have read the posts.

                              Anybody know if the Chemtech will clean up the throttle body and associated manifolds? Wynns seem to think that adding their product to the fuel will keep things clean, so why not the Chemtech?

                              Bill

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                              • Anything added to the fuel won't clean the EGR valve. The only way to clean the manifold is to spray it clean or remove and clean. Installing a gas injection system will have the same effect as spraying clean.
                                2019 GXL, Bullbar, UHF, Redarc Brake Controller, Tow Bar, Secondary Fuel Filter

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