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  • Stretched timing chain.

    I removed the inspection plate over the timing chain tensioner today and it looks like the tensioner is fully extended so I would say with the CEL on and showing code P0016 it surely needs the timing chain replaced. Has any one here done this before? I would love advice as to what to look out for while it is all apart so I only have to do it once.I intend to replace the sprockets and tensioners as well as the water pump. Any advice, suggestions etc are welcome.

  • #2
    I have never had to change a timing chain on a car I have owned even with 300000Km on the clock. Not saying they can't stretch but in this application a chain stretching?

    Are you sure the tensioner is fully extended, if so what about wear on the contact surface? Will be interesting to see how the timing marks line up when you remove the timing cover?
    HKB Electronics, manufacturer of the Alternator Voltage Booster, Silver 2008 D4D,Lifted,Underbody protection, Alternator Voltage Booster, Tiger Z winch, Lightforce DL, Air Horns, Tanami Drawers, Drop down fridge slide, Outback cargo barriers, Rotronics dual Battery system, Polaris GPS, HF/UHF/VHF, Radio speaker combiner, Long ranger water tank, Diff breathers, Inverter, Snorkel and others

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    • #3
      Unusual unless the service history is sketchy with multiple missed oil changes. Fair bit involved, just about everything has to be removed to get the timing covers off. Intake etc. Fan shroud off, fan off, ac compressor and alternator off and set aside. Easier if you pull the radiator but not essential. The timing cover bolts to the side of the sump at the bottom and the oil pump lives in that space. There is an o ring there where I think the pump connects to the pickup so be careful and check the oring is ok and in place. If you dont get oil pressure on restart that o ring isnt in the right place or has been damaged. There are three chains and you need to pull the VVT off to fit them. Timing is easy, red mark on chain lines up with the crank then the yellow links line up with each cam.

      Heads were being done and tbis pic is putting it all back together again. This stage took 2 - 3 hours to get to. All up a day if you are mechanically minded and have a good set of tools. Clean the oil pick up just in case it has missed some oil changes and the pick up is gunged up.

      Last edited by mjrandom; 03-03-2018, 12:52 PM. Reason: Added pic.
      My 150 build - http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread.php?27423-A-Random-approach-to-a-Bluestorm-150-GXL-D4D-automatic

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      • #4
        Thanks mjrandom for the information. I have watched this, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UR50da0sDOc and feel that I have the same scenario. I am a mechanic, but would love to avoid this job if I thought there was another cause of the code P0016. If I reset the code it comes back if I let it idle for more than a few minutes. My tensioner looks to be further extended than the one in the video and since I just purchased this, I feel it may be a good investment to replace what certainly appears to be a stretched timing chain. Can you clean the pickup with removing the sump?
        Really appreciate the advice.

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        • #5
          Originally posted by LeighW View Post
          I have never had to change a timing chain on a car I have owned even with 300000Km on the clock. Not saying they can't stretch but in this application a chain stretching?

          Are you sure the tensioner is fully extended, if so what about wear on the contact surface? Will be interesting to see how the timing marks line up when you remove the timing cover?
          It is a while since I had anything to do with a timing chain instead of a belt, but I do know that they are a very common weakness on some vehicles and they also throw the code P0016 when the chain stretches and the last bank to get driven by the chain becomes the most retarded. If only the tension guides were worn I would think the valve timing would remain in spec. The 1GR-FE has a pretty long chain driving four camshafts, so there is room for accelerated wear if the wrong oil or infrequent changes have been the previous owners practice. Hopefully changing the chain will be a step forward. For some reason the battery light is staying lit again even though it still has shown a charge when this has happened once before. It went out of it's own previously but has come back today. there is always something

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          • #6
            Sump off to do the pickup but it is a two piece sumpnso very easy.
            My 150 build - http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread.php?27423-A-Random-approach-to-a-Bluestorm-150-GXL-D4D-automatic

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            • #7
              Just had a scan through the fuses and could not find anything, checked the charge rate and it if fine, the battery light is off again when the engine is running.

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              • #8
                Trouble with a timing chain is it may be stretched or the wear guides might also be worn. End result is the same though, tensioner is fully extended.
                This engine is a piece of work, someone was definitely on the p*ss when they came up with the timing design.
                3-chains no less and so many guides, slippers, vibration dampers that I lost count.
                Such a vastly different idea from the 3.4 with a timing belt and cams geared to one another. Non interference too so no damage if the belt breaks.
                Gets expensive moving to the extra hp of a 4.0L.

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                • #9
                  Well I finally got most of my parts etc so I could tear the motor down and replace the chain. I only have bank1 cover off so far, but the timing is clearly retarded by half a tooth hence the code P0016. If I can get it all back together, problem solved. Looks like the Prado was a bit neglected. radiator full of grass seeds, air cleaner chock a block. Went surprisingly well considering. Hopefully noticeably improved went the job is finished.

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by mjrandom View Post
                    Sump off to do the pickup but it is a two piece sumpnso very easy.
                    Thanks mjrandom for the suggestion regarding the oil pickup, it was pretty bad. I have disassembled the oil pump, cleaned and checked it for tolerances and it is all good. I was supplied an incorrect crank sprocket and could not get the timing to line up, so now I have to wait another 2-3 weeks for one to come from Toyota Japan, but I want this to be right. I have spent a considerable amount of time cleaning off the sludge and residue from bad oil and I am replacing pretty much every consumable there is on this thing. All coolant hoses, o rings,filters, timing chain and sprockets, water pump, belt and all pulleys, spark plugs, and thermostat. This thing surprisingly drove like a new car before I did all the work, but I still have to get it all back together to get any benefit. Should be a great vehicle.

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                    • #11
                      That pick up was pretty bad. Back off road in no time!
                      My 150 build - http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread.php?27423-A-Random-approach-to-a-Bluestorm-150-GXL-D4D-automatic

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                      • #12
                        Oh, BTW, the photo of the front diff plug shows that it is bent on one side. I found this as it was weeping at the plug. I have no idea how this could have happened with the plug in place. i will replace it.

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by thebaz View Post
                          Oh, BTW, the photo of the front diff plug shows that it is bent on one side. I found this as it was weeping at the plug. I have no idea how this could have happened with the plug in place. i will replace it.
                          Someoneís thumped it repeatedly with a hammer to try and help loosen it by the looks of it. Given it was weeping, had a dirty air filter & radiator full of seeds, a long term self serviced car by someone who didnít have a very high attention to detail? How many kmís had it done? High 200ís? Hope they didnít neglect the transmission and flushed it properly when they were supposed to to ensure smooth shifting into reverse, even though you will get about a billion kms out of the auto, but still, got to care for these things to avoid annoying gear chomping later on. Pumped grease into the uniís yet to see if they had any grease in them haha. Iíd be replacing the fuel filter pretty soon too if u havenít already.
                          Last edited by Brett1979; 13-06-2018, 10:35 PM.
                          98 GXL 3.4L V6: TJM 2" lift, Airtec snorkel, TJM T15 steel bull bar, T-Max winch, 32in MT's, 4 x breathers & some other stuff, ODO = 385,000km.

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                          • #14
                            I went through everything on the Prado, every filter and all oils were changed. I have done just over 300km on it so far and it is driving really well. diff oil and trans oil was pretty clean. It is a six speed manual trans

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