What did I do to my 120 the last few weeks..

[adrian5800 Advanced Member Find all posts View Profile Close adrian5800]

Rather than clog up the "120 today" thread I thought I would start a new thread. I posted this a couple of days ago;

Not exactly what I didtoday but over the last few weeks..

Fitted a front mounted camera, rear camera,selector switch and Grande head unit.
Fitted TJM steps/semi sliders
Replaced faulty dual battery module (why dothese things fail only when you're on a trip and need the power for thefreezer?)
Replaced faulty temp sensor in cooling systemfor Madman EMS
Replaced faulty thermocouple for Madman EMS
Replaced 180W lightbar under warranty fromSunyee on Ebay (Anodising had faded badly to a dull gold colour - ugh)
Fitted 125W solar panel to Rhino roof rack tray
Fitted another power outlet in centre consolefor the wife's phone charger when we're travelling
Fitted second hand Airtec snorkel from Gumtree
Fitted voltage booster diode
Fitted battery isolator to winch power cable -this was on my mind for a while in the event of a front end collision the B+vecable would most likely short to ground in the bull bar and the result wouldn'tbe pretty.. I've witnessed a few battery explosions and..

Pics to follow this weekend if anyone'sinterested

Cheers
Ades

So here is some more info..

Front camera mounted in the front grille toyota emblem



I used one of these from ebay http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/151126413...84.m1439.l2649 and here's the image on the head unit.



The camera view covers the blind spot in front of the bulbar very well, the lower edge of the image is about 0.5m forward of the bulbar front. Ideal for crawling over cresting tracks and picking lines (and for avoiding small children and midgets..)


I bought a second hand Grande head unit from Gumtree for $50 without the sat nav etc as I use an 8" android tablet for that. I stream music from the mobile to a Nokia CK100 bluetooth that’s wired in to the speaker outputs from the head unit. Audio is pretty good considering I still only use the standard speakers. I never play CDs anymore and FM/AM is only used really when out of 3G/4G range (I use digital radio streamed from the phone)
Here's the rear camera mounted in the rear bumper with the right angle to see the tow hitch when hooking up the camper. There is just enough room in the void between the bumper and the rear cross member for the camera body. Both cameras are cheap chinese items but work well and the images are pretty good – more than acceptable for purpose.



I wired in a relay and DPDT switch to automatically select rear cam in reverse regardless of the switch selection. Here's the switch I used from AOB on ebay




Onto the sliders, I bought these from Mitchell bros at Brookvale (TJM) as they gave me a good trade discount, I was going to make my own but for the price I couldn't refuse.




The brackets are pretty substantial fabbed from 1/4" folded u channel and the chassis plates are 5/16", I did change the front chassis bolts (supplied ones were M10x140 HT bolts but the holes accepted M12 ok) I'm sure I can jack up the car under the front end of the sliders but the rear brackets are bolted to the chassis with the M8 captive nuts in the chassis and welded on wire M8 bolts. I might up some of them to M10 for peace of mind.





They do lack the second tube or RHS that custom ones have but I am more than happy with the strength of them as opposed to the alfoil and plastic steps. I had to relocate the air tank on the chassis and add another hydraulic hose to remote mount the manifold for the compressor pressure switch and relief valve.



Fitted the isolator for the winch, I have winch control switches mounted in the cab but wasn’t happy with the winch being permanently live with battery cable even though they are well protected with conduit and clipped up securely. Now I can leave it de-energised for safety and turn it on when required.




Fitted a second hand Airtec snorkel also from gumtree, which did cost more than an Ebay Safari copy but I can’t stand the look of the Safaris – IMO the Airtec is much more visually appealing.




This light bar I got from Sunyee, as you can see the anodising has faded really badly, after some emailing he agreed to replace it. I must say he does give a pretty good service and the light bar is fantastic but looked terrible after a while. The replacement he sent is a different design so I’m hoping the anodising process the manufacturer uses has been improved.





TBC..

[Minyip Lurker Find all posts View Profile Close Minyip]

DPDT switch

Hi.

I am installing a worklight to back of my Prado 120 Series and what to use a DPDT Switch.

Do you have a diagram of how to wire up the switch you used

Thanks David.

Rather than clog up the "120 today" thread I thought I would start a new thread. I posted this a couple of days ago;



So here is some more info..

Front camera mounted in the front grille toyota emblem



I used one of these from ebay http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/151126413...84.m1439.l2649 and here's the image on the head unit.



The camera view covers the blind spot in front of the bulbar very well, the lower edge of the image is about 0.5m forward of the bulbar front. Ideal for crawling over cresting tracks and picking lines (and for avoiding small children and midgets..)


I bought a second hand Grande head unit from Gumtree for $50 without the sat nav etc as I use an 8" android tablet for that. I stream music from the mobile to a Nokia CK100 bluetooth that’s wired in to the speaker outputs from the head unit. Audio is pretty good considering I still only use the standard speakers. I never play CDs anymore and FM/AM is only used really when out of 3G/4G range (I use digital radio streamed from the phone)
Here's the rear camera mounted in the rear bumper with the right angle to see the tow hitch when hooking up the camper. There is just enough room in the void between the bumper and the rear cross member for the camera body. Both cameras are cheap chinese items but work well and the images are pretty good – more than acceptable for purpose.



I wired in a relay and DPDT switch to automatically select rear cam in reverse regardless of the switch selection. Here's the switch I used from AOB on ebay




Onto the sliders, I bought these from Mitchell bros at Brookvale (TJM) as they gave me a good trade discount, I was going to make my own but for the price I couldn't refuse.




The brackets are pretty substantial fabbed from 1/4" folded u channel and the chassis plates are 5/16", I did change the front chassis bolts (supplied ones were M10x140 HT bolts but the holes accepted M12 ok) I'm sure I can jack up the car under the front end of the sliders but the rear brackets are bolted to the chassis with the M8 captive nuts in the chassis and welded on wire M8 bolts. I might up some of them to M10 for peace of mind.





They do lack the second tube or RHS that custom ones have but I am more than happy with the strength of them as opposed to the alfoil and plastic steps. I had to relocate the air tank on the chassis and add another hydraulic hose to remote mount the manifold for the compressor pressure switch and relief valve.



Fitted the isolator for the winch, I have winch control switches mounted in the cab but wasn’t happy with the winch being permanently live with battery cable even though they are well protected with conduit and clipped up securely. Now I can leave it de-energised for safety and turn it on when required.




Fitted a second hand Airtec snorkel also from gumtree, which did cost more than an Ebay Safari copy but I can’t stand the look of the Safaris – IMO the Airtec is much more visually appealing.




This light bar I got from Sunyee, as you can see the anodising has faded really badly, after some emailing he agreed to replace it. I must say he does give a pretty good service and the light bar is fantastic but looked terrible after a while. The replacement he sent is a different design so I’m hoping the anodising process the manufacturer uses has been improved.





TBC..