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Factory Alloys on Camper Trailer

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  • Factory Alloys on Camper Trailer

    Has anybody bothered putting factory alloy rims onto their camper?
    I picked up some wheels, however different offset means I need to do some work.

    Either:
    Spacers from trailer lug centric to hear back centric wheels.
    This also fixed width/clearance issue and should allow users of factory nuts and hub centric rims if I do it right.

    Replace the axle with a longer one.
    This would still leave him centric factory alloys on lug centric trailer hubs though.

    Obviously replacing the axle is the "right" way to do it, but does it matter that the factory alloys are being used lug centric?
    Will this damage them over time? Flare the holes in the rim or anything??

    Thanks
    Tim

  • #2
    We have them on our Tvan - easy to do. You'll need M12 studs instead of 1/2" ones that are more common - you should be able to buy the replacement studs and then replace them yourself. No ideas about offsets/etc as it wasn't a problem for us.

    Comment


    • #3
      Thanks Peter.
      Do your trailer hubs have a "centre flange" that the wheels mate with, or are they just using the studs for position and load bearing?

      What nuts did you use? The factory alloy ones (long-ish Flat section) or tapered?
      If tapered, have you checked the wheels for any damage to the holes from using tapered nuts (bit like a countersunk /chamfer)?

      Cheers!!

      Comment


      • #4
        Ours is a Tvan - it has 10" Alko electric drum brakes. The wheel just sits on the studs - there is a cap in the middle to protect the bearings but it isn't load bearing. It also stops the Toyota centre plastic thingy from fitting.

        I used Toyota factory nuts - I haven't checked the wheels for damage but don't see why there would be any.

        If you're going on a long trip be aware that M12 studs are hard to find in stock - 1/2" ones are everywhere. I've added a set of spares to the parts box...

        Comment


        • #5
          You don't need a spigot on the hub to mount the wheel, hubs that have a spigot are only there to centralise the wheel when mounting. It has no load bearing function contrary to what a lot of people will believe and tell you. Once the nuts are fitted and torqued correctly, the friction between the hub and face of the rim in contact with the hub carries the load in shear. Obviously axial load is taken by the studs and nuts.
          I have M12 studs fitted to 10" alko hubs on my trailer and Prado OEM rims (be careful to use the correct nuts on factory rims), this way I carry 2 spares on our trips and all the tyres and rims match. My trailer was manufactured to be the same as the Prado wheel track, although it came with Sunraysia's.

          Peter - I bored out 2 of the centre caps on mine so they fit over the trailer hub cap.
          Silver '04 KZJ120~Manual~GXL~Dobinson/Kings lift~Custom valved Ironmans~Detroit Locker~Endless Air~X9 Superwinch~Madman EMS1~TJM Dual Battery~Rhino Roof Tray~120W solar panel~Foxwing awning~Bushskinz UVP~Long Ranger water tank~Bushman fridge~Steinbauer P-Box~Beaudesert 2 3/4"~Airtec Snorkel~TJM Sliders~Prico Boost Gauge~BFG-KO2s~TPMS~GME TX3420~Front and Rear Cameras~Ultimate Camper hanging off the back!

          Comment


          • #6


            Centrecaps fit fine on mine... Alko stock M12 studs and will post wherever. They have a minimum charge though. I did my box trailer and ended up replacing the hubs and bearings which were getting on anyway.
            My 150 build - http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread.php?27423-A-Random-approach-to-a-Bluestorm-150-GXL-D4D-automatic

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by mjrandom View Post
              Centrecaps fit fine on mine... Alko stock M12 studs and will post wherever. They have a minimum charge though. I did my box trailer and ended up replacing the hubs and bearings which were getting on anyway.
              120 and 150 rim centre caps must be different, the 120 ones definitely don't without modification.
              https://goo.gl/photos/aw8eydySFdHMSpUBA
              Silver '04 KZJ120~Manual~GXL~Dobinson/Kings lift~Custom valved Ironmans~Detroit Locker~Endless Air~X9 Superwinch~Madman EMS1~TJM Dual Battery~Rhino Roof Tray~120W solar panel~Foxwing awning~Bushskinz UVP~Long Ranger water tank~Bushman fridge~Steinbauer P-Box~Beaudesert 2 3/4"~Airtec Snorkel~TJM Sliders~Prico Boost Gauge~BFG-KO2s~TPMS~GME TX3420~Front and Rear Cameras~Ultimate Camper hanging off the back!

              Comment


              • #8
                Thanks Adrian.
                Those centre caps look quite good like that. I'd been wondering what I'd do, but that seems a reasonable option.

                So with the factory alloys. The right nuts are the ones with the slight taper. Then a flat section, then a captive washer.
                They are what you have used? Wheel is properly centred?

                This is what I love about this place 👍 thanks guys!

                Comment


                • #9
                  Not sure what you mean by slight taper but otherwise your description fits.
                  Without putting a dial gauge on the rim I'd say they are centered.

                  Cheers
                  Silver '04 KZJ120~Manual~GXL~Dobinson/Kings lift~Custom valved Ironmans~Detroit Locker~Endless Air~X9 Superwinch~Madman EMS1~TJM Dual Battery~Rhino Roof Tray~120W solar panel~Foxwing awning~Bushskinz UVP~Long Ranger water tank~Bushman fridge~Steinbauer P-Box~Beaudesert 2 3/4"~Airtec Snorkel~TJM Sliders~Prico Boost Gauge~BFG-KO2s~TPMS~GME TX3420~Front and Rear Cameras~Ultimate Camper hanging off the back!

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Chamfer maybe?

                    My 150 build - http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread.php?27423-A-Random-approach-to-a-Bluestorm-150-GXL-D4D-automatic

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      I read on another forum that this style of nut with the longer wider taper is the better choice on steel rims.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        I fought wees wer tawkin aloominium weels?
                        My 150 build - http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread.php?27423-A-Random-approach-to-a-Bluestorm-150-GXL-D4D-automatic

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Wrong thread!

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Originally posted by amts View Post
                            wrong thread!
                            3/8 unf...
                            Silver '04 KZJ120~Manual~GXL~Dobinson/Kings lift~Custom valved Ironmans~Detroit Locker~Endless Air~X9 Superwinch~Madman EMS1~TJM Dual Battery~Rhino Roof Tray~120W solar panel~Foxwing awning~Bushskinz UVP~Long Ranger water tank~Bushman fridge~Steinbauer P-Box~Beaudesert 2 3/4"~Airtec Snorkel~TJM Sliders~Prico Boost Gauge~BFG-KO2s~TPMS~GME TX3420~Front and Rear Cameras~Ultimate Camper hanging off the back!

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              I had OE 120 alloys fitted to my camper. Customline fitted a wider axle on standard ALKO hubs, with Prado studs. I supplied OE nuts @ $7 each

                              You also need to check your tent drop as the extra tyre/rim height might prevent the canvas from touching the ground like it should.
                              [url=http://www.myswag.org/index.php?topic=12264]My Prado[/url]

                              Comment

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