Originally posted by Bushbasher
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Engine Mount Collapsed into rail
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Originally posted by damicon View PostThe dealership I dealt with today also mentioned they have never heard of it?Dave
Views expressed are mine alone and are not intended to compromise the integrity of my employer nor offend those who may read such views.
Bugger Bali, get out and see Australia before we sell it all to China.
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Sorry mate, I have another question you may be able to help with. The link you pointed me to, there is mention of toyota supplying parts for the fix, though also DMZ in america http://dmzfab.com/product/tacoma-mot...nt-gusset-kit/
The site mentioned models 2005 - 2006 early. You wouldn't know or anyone you may know if this is suitable for 2004 prado. Or if I ring DMZ exactly which model to mention to them? hope it makes sense… many thanks ,Nick
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Not Happy
Hi all. I have had my Prado 120 since brand new (2003) it has only done 155,000 km and last month i had the same issue with the engine mount. According to Toyota they will not warrant the broken mount that has come of the chassis but till offer a kit and repair it for you at a price, i think $2000 or so, cant remember to be exact.. Anyway im just lucky i know how to weld, so stage one was to weld the bracket back onto the chassis.. stage2 is to go to a mates garage and pull out the engine and weld a supporting back plate and flanges.
I cannot believe that Toyota Australia are the only ones who will not recall the Prado 120's back to fix this KNOWN ISSUE. I know that USA have recalled all theirs back and fixed the engine mount.
Anyway im glad to say that my welding has held up, as i gave it a test last week down the Poweline Trails & Monkey Gum at Yalwal NSW
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I had the same problem with my 2003 V6. Toyota dealer on the Gold Coast said they had never heard of it before and took photos to send to Toyota but they wouldn't cover repairs. Don't remember the cost now but in the thousands. My engine ended up resting on the power steering I was told. It had a very rough life and 350,000 kays, mostly on dirt roads. Also cracked front guards and a big split down the firewall. Traded it on a 150 in 2013.Jeff. 2013 GXL Diesel. ARB Bar, Safari snorkel, Tigerz 12000lb winch, OME 2" lift, Aux battery with CTEC 12v -12v and solar charger, 100w solar panel, Rhino bars, shovel holder, Oztrail canopy, Maxtrax, GME 3220, Toyota tow bar, Tekonsha Prodigy, Hema navigator, Tyredogs, Waeco 50l fridge, ARB compressor, Rear door table, Fire extinguishers front and rear, cig plug and 2 Anderson plugs in rear.
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Hey guys, have now just noticed the dreaded cracking of the LHS engine mount bracket. Appears to still be in tact around the top and as such is still holding in position at the moment. Being in a remote area of Queensland, I'm going to remove the front diff and make some enquiries with a welding mob who may be able to help me.
Fingers crossed it's not too hard a job. Will post updates as it progresses
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Well, add me to the list..
2006 120 V6. 284,000 kms. Mine went in last week for a Trans service and flush, the guys said they would look at why it was making a light clunk going into Reverse and drive.. They loaded up the trans on the brake and seems that broke the camels back, and the engine dropped to the side and mount pushed into the chassis. It was cracked about 75% of the way around, with only the top holding.
I had a reputable 4x4 shop look at it today, and they wanted to either drop the diff or remove the engine. And would quote me up as such. Expected fix maybe $5-7k. Toyota said it would be similar pricing.
Tonight I had a mate who specialises in building pretty exotic off road and race vehicles for big names like Robby Gordon etc have a look.
Didn't take anything off the car, simply tied the tow points down to a handy Bobcat we had laying around in the yard for some weight to stop the front end lifting and put a porta power hydraulic jack under the engine mount, a few good pumps and the mount pulled back out the chassis perfectly.
A few quick tacks with the Mig before releasing it off the bobcat and porta power.
A good clean up with the die grinder and 30 mins with the MIG welder.. Added a brace plate to the bottom of the mount and chassis to avoid it cracking again.
We got a lot of heat into the welds and some really deep penetration, they are good and solid.. Almost look like they have been done by a robot they are so neat. Splash of brake cleaner and some gloss black paint and you wouldn't even pick it has been done.
All fixed in around 90 minutes which included a half dozen beers. Cost me a carton of corona. Pretty happy with that result!5 Photos
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That is a good result.My 150 build - http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread.php?27423-A-Random-approach-to-a-Bluestorm-150-GXL-D4D-automatic
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Originally posted by juz View PostWow, great mate to have Piggy. So I guess it was the crack making the clunk sound?
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