idle up switch

[FlyingBushPig Advanced Member Find all posts View Profile Close FlyingBushPig]

To me it's basically the electronic replacement for the 'wind up' hand throttle on the older Landcruiser models.

Are yes the wind up hand throttles, poor mans cruise control.

1 notch was 90km/h, the next was 120km/h :shock:

Those were the days.

Our FJ40 had click stops, no winding.
...and if you needed to stop real quick, it was clutch in and brake hard, especially when it was at 130KM/h :shock: . We had a straight 6 pertrol guzzler which cost me $90 a week when fuel was under 90c a litre! That was without weekend trips with mates.

[mrfpv Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close mrfpv]

ok im sorry if it has already been posted but;

The "idle up" switch has different uses.

1)help warm the engine up in cold weather

2) it is also used if you are running an electric winch or anything that needs to use alot of the battery. the Prado regulates the battery and when it notices an immense amount of draining for the battery, it increases the revs to increase the charge of the battery to try and even it out.

thats what i was told and seems to work with us. when ever we use alot of power (running the caravans lights or anything) after a while the revs jump up to regulate the battery

[handles Lurker Find all posts View Profile Close handles]

Hi there,

I am a Brit who lives in the Netherlands, on my british spec Landcruiser (prado) LC4 (like a VX I suppose) it is labelled "POWER HEAT" and is for warming up the engine quickly. Its gets pretty cold here and I have not really used it. The manual says it will only work when the engine is cold and becomes inactive when warm. These D4D engines seem to warm up realy quicky anyway. Mines in the centre of the temp gauge within 3 miles or so! and stays there.

Be good to be able to modify it to be used as an Idle up.

Cheers.

[Black Prado Chick Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close Black Prado Chick]

When I took delivery of my prado the sales guy said it was for when you get to a small hill, you hit the idle up button and slowly cruise up the hill.
Tested it last friday and sure enough.... it actually worked. I was suprised as the sales guy seemed to know nothing about anything else to do with the car :?

[uk_vette Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close uk_vette]

Re: idle up switch

Idle up switch only does some thing when the engine is cold, and below a pre-set temperature.
From cold, and I mean, cold, the idle up raises the reves to 1200.
As the engine warms up, the idle up will suddenly drop out, and the revs will drop back to 770, or there about.

'vette

[Dazza76 Lurker Find all posts View Profile Close Dazza76]

Re: idle up switch

The idle up switch is used in cold countries, where starting a diesel engine is very difficult.
Once the engine is started you use the idle up to keep it running for a few minutes before driving away.
Been there and done that

[torehund Lurker Find all posts View Profile Close torehund]

Re: idle up switch

Hello!
I'm a 120 owner from Norway, and here this button is named "power heater". It's for warming up the engine more effectively on cold winter days. It revs up the engine, and it warms the engine coolant through a viscous heater.
Follow this link to learn more.

I see you use it to rev up engine in offroad situations. This is not possible on my car as it is controlled by the temperature of the car. When the car is getting warm it switches off and will not go on again before engine cools down.
It think it also only works when the car has come to a full stop. This means it's useless in offroad situations here :cry:

[uk_vette Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close uk_vette]

Re: idle up switch

Hello!
I'm a 120 owner from Norway, and here this button is named "power heater". It's for warming up the engine more effectively on cold winter days. It revs up the engine, and it warms the engine coolant through a viscous heater.
Follow this link to learn more.

I see you use it to rev up engine in offroad situations. This is not possible on my car as it is controlled by the temperature of the car. When the car is getting warm it switches off and will not go on again before engine cools down.
It think it also only works when the car has come to a full stop. This means it's useless in offroad situations here :cry:

'
'
CORRECT !

'vette

[karrathaprado2 Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close karrathaprado2]

Re: idle up switch

Hey Guys I have been thinking about this a long time and want to see if this would work...Not sure if this is the correct place or under electrical but I will give it a go. I have been researching on how to rasie our RPM's up for either a winch or Endless air compressor. We all know that the 'Idle up' button does not do what we want it to do unless it is REAL cold out :evil: Well were I am it in not real cold but on the other side of warm and getting warmer. See below information from a web site that I found out from my brothers in the USA. I know the wire colors and such may not all apply but if an Auto Electrician out there looks at this maybe we can get a wire diagram from someone. I am willing to try just need some feed back from one and all out there. :lol:

I will Add pictures after I get them on a hosting web site. (The first verson of this was without pictures and they do help) I do have a pdf version of this if any one wants it just PM me and I will send you what I have.

DIY AIC Mod
AIC = Auxiliary Idle Controller
This setup will let ya control your idle and have it set to a certain RPM for idling.
Ok to start off with you will have to call Radio Shack at 1-800-the-shack or similar store or stop there and order some parts.
The potentiometer and relays are not stocked at your local RADIO SHACK.
They can order them or you can just call them.
Parts List: (Now the good old USA Radio Shack if you check them out or NewArk you will and I have found most at Jaycar here)

Since Radio Shack Does not Carry a lot of the parts anymore, ya'll can get them online. (If you are in the USA)

http://www.newark.com

SINGLE POLE SINGLE THROW SWITCH. Radio Shack pt# 275-612
10-TURN 2K POTENTIOMETER NewArk pt# 3540S-1-202
2 SINGLE POLE DOUBLE THROW AUTO RELAYS NewArk pt# VF4-15F13
RECTIFIER DIODE (1N4001) Radio Shack PT# 276-1101
20 GAUGE STRANDED WIRE
SOLDER
SOLDER GUN
SAFETY GLASSES
TAPE AND OR HEAT SHRINK TUBING AND WIRE TIES

http://www.flickr.com/photos/4267336...n/photostream/

In the pic left to right
relay / relay / potentiometer / switch
Ok time to get to work.
Here is the wiring Diagram!

http://www.flickr.com/photos/4267336...n/photostream/

WHEN YOU’RE UNDER YOUR DASH SOLDERING WIRES PROTECT YOUR CARPET WITH SOME RAGS.
If you drop hot solder into the rug you will not get it out and it will burn it too. PLEASE BE CAREFUL SOLDERING. (Safety First! ops: )

STEP 1 Switches
Find a power source that is on with the key.
Run a wire from there to one side of the switch.
From the other side of the switch run a wire to the coil terminal of both relays (terminal #1)

http://www.flickr.com/photos/4267336...n/photostream/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/42673365@N07/3932682977/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/42673365@N07/3933464882/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/42673365@N07/3932740503/

From the other side coil terminals (terminal #2) on the relays run a wire to the parking break switch wire.
(There is only one wire on the parking brake.)


STEP 2 Idle Validation Switch (IVS)
As you look at the throttle pedal you will see a switch on the left side with 2 wires going to it.
The wires are taped together carefully un-tape them so you can work with the wires.
I used a razor knife to cut the tape, but be careful not to cut the wires.
(There should be a red/orange and a brown wire, unless they changed the color code of these wires.)

http://www.flickr.com/photos/42673365@N07/3932740509/

Cut the red/orange wire leaving plenty on the switch side so that you can splice onto it.
The red/orange wire that is going into the wire bundle needs to get hooked to the common side of one of the relays. (terminal #3)
The other red/orange (the one attached to the IVS) goes to the NORMALLY
CLOSED CONTACT (NC) (terminal #4) of the relay. Now take a wire from the NORMALLY OPEN CONTACT (NO) (terminal #5) and run it over to the brown wire by the IVS, you will just tap onto this wire so you don't need to cut it. Just take some of the insulation off and solder it on, then tape her back up.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/42673365@N07/3932740511/

STEP 3 The other Relays and the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS)
Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) is located on top of the pedal and has 3 wires going to it.
Remove the tape to expose the wires. (There should be a brown/white wire and a gray/white wire.)

http://www.flickr.com/photos/42673365@N07/3932683045/

Cut the brown/white wire, leaving enough to work with by the switch.
Hook the end up that goes back into the wire bundle to the common side (terminal #3) of the other relay.
Take the side that goes to the switch and hook it to the NORMALLY CLOSED
CONTACT (NC) (terminal #4) of the relay.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/42673365@N07/3932683159/

Ok take the pot and turn it all the way counter clockwise and measure to find which 2 terminals give you 2000 ohms.
This reading will get closer to 0 ohms as you turn it clockwise.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/42673365@N07/3932682819/

Take a wire from the NORMALLY OPEN CONTACT (NO) (terminal #5) of the relay and go to one of the terminals on the POT.
Now take a wire from the other terminal of the POT and tap it into the gray/white wire.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/42673365@N07/3932740517/

Tape up all the bare wires and enjoy.
To use set the E-BRAKE and turn the switch on to activate. Now to increase the RPM TURN the shaft on the POT CLOCKWISE.
Now remember this is a fine adjustment pot so it might take a few turns to get it close to where you want it. Then it will only be a small turn there after to get it perfectly where you want it. Enjoy you will figure it out fast
This diode goes on the wire heading to the e-brake switch to keep the e-brake dash light from back feeding into the system. This is ESPECIALLY needed if you run a lighted toggle switch
Rectifier Diode Radio Shack PT# 276-1101

http://www.flickr.com/photos/42673365@N07/3932740527/

This is a pic of everything wired up on a bench ready to be installed in the truck

http://www.flickr.com/photos/42673365@N07/3932683379/

Everything all tucked up and job done. (Not to my standard :cry: )

http://www.flickr.com/photos/42673365@N07/3933465182/

Switches mounted under the dash cubby hole.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/42673365@N07/3932683773/

(This is quite tacky to say the least but I know WE Prado users are much more artisticly inclined. You must remember that some of my 'Good Old Boy' Red necks back home in the USA are quite rough around the edges...so be nice :lol: )

I have located parts here in Australia incase anyone else wants to give it a go at the same time.

http://au.farnell.com/jsp/home/homepage.jsp

Part Num. Quantity . Availability Line Price Description Mfr Part # Mfr Name
351672 1 Refer Web 19.85 POTENTIOMETER, 2K; Power Rating:3W; Trac 3540S-001-202 BOURNS
Free shipping

http://www.jaycar.com.au/index.asp
Shipping $6.60

1N4004 1A 400V Diode - Pack of 4
STOCK-CODE: ZR1004 - $0.50 (Need only one but they come in a pack of 4)

12V Illuminated Toggle RED
STOCK-CODE: ST0580 $3.95 (Need only 1)

30A Horn Relay – SPDT
STOCK-CODE: SY4070 $7.95 (Need 2 Each)

So all up it should cost you around $50 AUD to try and make it work.

[adrian5800 Advanced Member Find all posts View Profile Close adrian5800]

Re: idle up switch

Hey Guys I have been thinking about this a long time and want to see if this would work...Not sure if this is the correct place or under electrical but I will give it a go. I have been researching on how to rasie our RPM's up for either a winch or Endless air compressor. We all know that the 'Idle up' button does not do what we want it to do unless it is REAL cold out :evil: Well were I am it in not real cold but on the other side of warm and getting warmer. See below information from a web site that I found out from my brothers in the USA. I know the wire colors and such may not all apply but if an Auto Electrician out there looks at this maybe we can get a wire diagram from someone. I am willing to try just need some feed back from one and all out there. :lol:

I will Add pictures after I get them on a hosting web site. (The first verson of this was without pictures and they do help) I do have a pdf version of this if any one wants it just PM me and I will send you what I have.

DIY AIC Mod
AIC = Auxiliary Idle Controller
This setup will let ya control your idle and have it set to a certain RPM for idling.
Ok to start off with you will have to call Radio Shack at 1-800-the-shack or similar store or stop there and order some parts.
The potentiometer and relays are not stocked at your local RADIO SHACK.
They can order them or you can just call them.
Parts List: (Now the good old USA Radio Shack if you check them out or NewArk you will and I have found most at Jaycar here)

Since Radio Shack Does not Carry a lot of the parts anymore, ya'll can get them online. (If you are in the USA)

http://www.newark.com

SINGLE POLE SINGLE THROW SWITCH. Radio Shack pt# 275-612
10-TURN 2K POTENTIOMETER NewArk pt# 3540S-1-202
2 SINGLE POLE DOUBLE THROW AUTO RELAYS NewArk pt# VF4-15F13
RECTIFIER DIODE (1N4001) Radio Shack PT# 276-1101
20 GAUGE STRANDED WIRE
SOLDER
SOLDER GUN
SAFETY GLASSES
TAPE AND OR HEAT SHRINK TUBING AND WIRE TIES

http://www.flickr.com/photos/4267336...n/photostream/

In the pic left to right
relay / relay / potentiometer / switch
Ok time to get to work.
Here is the wiring Diagram!

http://www.flickr.com/photos/4267336...n/photostream/

WHEN YOU’RE UNDER YOUR DASH SOLDERING WIRES PROTECT YOUR CARPET WITH SOME RAGS.
If you drop hot solder into the rug you will not get it out and it will burn it too. PLEASE BE CAREFUL SOLDERING. (Safety First! ops: )

STEP 1 Switches
Find a power source that is on with the key.
Run a wire from there to one side of the switch.
From the other side of the switch run a wire to the coil terminal of both relays (terminal #1)

http://www.flickr.com/photos/4267336...n/photostream/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/42673365@N07/3932682977/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/42673365@N07/3933464882/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/42673365@N07/3932740503/

From the other side coil terminals (terminal #2) on the relays run a wire to the parking break switch wire.
(There is only one wire on the parking brake.)


STEP 2 Idle Validation Switch (IVS)
As you look at the throttle pedal you will see a switch on the left side with 2 wires going to it.
The wires are taped together carefully un-tape them so you can work with the wires.
I used a razor knife to cut the tape, but be careful not to cut the wires.
(There should be a red/orange and a brown wire, unless they changed the color code of these wires.)

http://www.flickr.com/photos/42673365@N07/3932740509/

Cut the red/orange wire leaving plenty on the switch side so that you can splice onto it.
The red/orange wire that is going into the wire bundle needs to get hooked to the common side of one of the relays. (terminal #3)
The other red/orange (the one attached to the IVS) goes to the NORMALLY
CLOSED CONTACT (NC) (terminal #4) of the relay. Now take a wire from the NORMALLY OPEN CONTACT (NO) (terminal #5) and run it over to the brown wire by the IVS, you will just tap onto this wire so you don't need to cut it. Just take some of the insulation off and solder it on, then tape her back up.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/42673365@N07/3932740511/

STEP 3 The other Relays and the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS)
Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) is located on top of the pedal and has 3 wires going to it.
Remove the tape to expose the wires. (There should be a brown/white wire and a gray/white wire.)

http://www.flickr.com/photos/42673365@N07/3932683045/

Cut the brown/white wire, leaving enough to work with by the switch.
Hook the end up that goes back into the wire bundle to the common side (terminal #3) of the other relay.
Take the side that goes to the switch and hook it to the NORMALLY CLOSED
CONTACT (NC) (terminal #4) of the relay.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/42673365@N07/3932683159/

Ok take the pot and turn it all the way counter clockwise and measure to find which 2 terminals give you 2000 ohms.
This reading will get closer to 0 ohms as you turn it clockwise.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/42673365@N07/3932682819/

Take a wire from the NORMALLY OPEN CONTACT (NO) (terminal #5) of the relay and go to one of the terminals on the POT.
Now take a wire from the other terminal of the POT and tap it into the gray/white wire.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/42673365@N07/3932740517/

Tape up all the bare wires and enjoy.
To use set the E-BRAKE and turn the switch on to activate. Now to increase the RPM TURN the shaft on the POT CLOCKWISE.
Now remember this is a fine adjustment pot so it might take a few turns to get it close to where you want it. Then it will only be a small turn there after to get it perfectly where you want it. Enjoy you will figure it out fast
This diode goes on the wire heading to the e-brake switch to keep the e-brake dash light from back feeding into the system. This is ESPECIALLY needed if you run a lighted toggle switch
Rectifier Diode Radio Shack PT# 276-1101

http://www.flickr.com/photos/42673365@N07/3932740527/

This is a pic of everything wired up on a bench ready to be installed in the truck

http://www.flickr.com/photos/42673365@N07/3932683379/

Everything all tucked up and job done. (Not to my standard :cry: )

http://www.flickr.com/photos/42673365@N07/3933465182/

Switches mounted under the dash cubby hole.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/42673365@N07/3932683773/

(This is quite tacky to say the least but I know WE Prado users are much more artisticly inclined. You must remember that some of my 'Good Old Boy' Red necks back home in the USA are quite rough around the edges...so be nice :lol: )

I have located parts here in Australia incase anyone else wants to give it a go at the same time.

http://au.farnell.com/jsp/home/homepage.jsp

Part Num. Quantity . Availability Line Price Description Mfr Part # Mfr Name
351672 1 Refer Web 19.85 POTENTIOMETER, 2K; Power Rating:3W; Trac 3540S-001-202 BOURNS
Free shipping

http://www.jaycar.com.au/index.asp
Shipping $6.60

1N4004 1A 400V Diode - Pack of 4
STOCK-CODE: ZR1004 - $0.50 (Need only one but they come in a pack of 4)

12V Illuminated Toggle RED
STOCK-CODE: ST0580 $3.95 (Need only 1)

30A Horn Relay – SPDT
STOCK-CODE: SY4070 $7.95 (Need 2 Each)

So all up it should cost you around $50 AUD to try and make it work.

Hi KarrathaPrado2
I sent you a PM but rereading the detail of your post there is something that needs to clarified- the 120's TPS has 6 wires not 3 - the ECU receives two signal voltages to sense the position of the accelerator (essentially two potentiometers). At idle one is around .8v and the other is around 1.6v and as the pedal is depressed the voltages do not rise in a linear fashion. If you raise the voltage on one of the outputs the ECU believes there is a fault and registers a CEL code. I believe it can be overcome and I am determined to seek a solution to this. BTW vehicles with a hand throttle control that is "drive by wire" use a potentiometer that is connected to the ECU separate to the TPS outputs.
I have tinkered with this problem for a little while, but my setup needed diodes on the outputs from the TPS and the voltage drop across them was too great. But you have got me rethinking using relays again.
The factory manual shows a input for an idle up switch for the 1KZ on the ECU but I'm thinking it has the same function as the 1KD-FTE - ie is dependant on engine temperature.

Regards

Ades

[karrathaprado2 Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close karrathaprado2]

Re: idle up switch

I agree with Ades that you will need to pot to make it work. I have found some other information on this off a FJ Crusier link. We shall keep all informed if we can come up with anything that works and is easy to do and of course with in a budget. Always open to help from the masses out there espically auto electricians or anyone that likes to tinker with circuts dieodes and the like. If we can pull together and pull this off it would be a great acomplishment 8)

[kiv7 Lurker Find all posts View Profile Close kiv7]

Re: idle up switch

Hi All,

so glad to have found this thread... I have a 2005 GXL diesel auto and I REALLY want an idle up control like my old troopy had!

I can do programming with PICAXE microprocessors ($9each cheap!) and some pretty cool stuff. If someone has worked out what wires go where etc I think we're well placed. I was thinking of making a program that makes it rev a little, like hunt up and down to stop glazing etc.

EDIT - I'm not pushing any product or services here.. for clarification, what I am saying is that I have recently learnt how to make little kits which have a ton of flexibility using the PICAXE processor.. and to buy on of those is dirt cheap, like $8 etc.. so it's a very viable option to easily add quite a good bit of intelligence into this project - I would do so using a PICAXE.

[adrian5800 Advanced Member Find all posts View Profile Close adrian5800]

Re: idle up switch

Hi All,

so glad to have found this thread... I have a 2005 GXL diesel auto and I REALLY want an idle up control like my old troopy had!

I can do programming with PICAXE microprocessors ($9each cheap!) and some pretty cool stuff. If someone has worked out what wires go where etc I think we're well placed. I was thinking of making a program that makes it rev a little, like hunt up and down to stop glazing etc.

EDIT - I'm not pushing any product or services here.. for clarification, what I am saying is that I have recently learnt how to make little kits which have a ton of flexibility using the PICAXE processor.. and to buy on of those is dirt cheap, like $8 etc.. so it's a very viable option to easily add quite a good bit of intelligence into this project - I would do so using a PICAXE.

Hi Kiv
I think I understand what you can do with a Picaxe processor but it seems to me to a way to overcomplicate the solution, unless I'm otherwise mistaken. I have trialled a simple solution to this on the 1KZ - using a momentary on switch which lifts the revs to 1200rpm, but it needed a pigtail to connect to the engine ECU and that had to come from Japan. When it arrives and if it works I'll post what I have done - mind this won't work on the 1KD-FTV engines - they already have the idle up switch and that is dependant on engine temp

Why would you worry about glazing? How long are you planning on leaving your engine idling??

Regards

Adrian

[dhula Member Find all posts View Profile Close dhula]

Re: idle up switch

I don't think I read it amongst all that above (sorry if it was) but I wonder if any one has tried using the cruise control to increase idle speed.
in essance with the car in N turn the cruise on and use the "up" and "down" to adjust the engine speed.

many heavy trucks use this method (Mack, Scania and Volvo come to mind as a few that do) and I wonder if the 120 D4D will do it too.

I have a 95 series with the 1KZ and it doesn't work but I have an auto TX which may mean it doesn't work.

may not work but it may, who knows.

[MickL Addicted PP Member Find all posts View Profile Close MickL]

Re: idle up switch

I don't think I read it amongst all that above (sorry if it was) but I wonder if any one has tried using the cruise control to increase idle speed.
in essance with the car in N turn the cruise on and use the "up" and "down" to adjust the engine speed.

Unfortunately the cruise is based on a vehicle speed signal not and engine RPM.

Mick