Tweet
Wow. I didn't expect such a detailed reply. Thats a great explanation and clears a few things up for me. So its the friction between the two plates that stops things moving not just the bolts. That makes sense.
-
Can't we just keep travelling?
Travelling Panelbeater
Follow us on Facebook... Mr & Mrs Whitey's Great Oz Trek -
The bolts supplied with the 5000kg points are 12.9 rated.
MikeComment
-
Corine,Originally posted by fido666 View Post
I ended up just going ahead and purchasing a set from Everything 4WD. They're the modified design like yours, so a bit lower rating but I have flexibility to fit a TJM bullbar later now if I choose to without having to take to my recovery points with the angle grinder!
Thanks for the offer to talk to your fitting shop, but I had a fiddle tonight and getting the nut plate through that hole behind the hydraulic lines is not a problem. It's a bit more fiddly than the RHS but just requires a little more careful bending of the wire.
Tomorrow night I'll drill the top holes out a tad to 13mm to enable the bolts to pass through (as Mike did above), then after a couple of coats of red oxide on the holes and I should be ready to just bolt the points on!
Cheers,
David.[SIZE=2][U]2012 150 Series D4D Kakadu[/U][/SIZE]
[SIZE=1]Wynnum Towbar, Narva Merit/USB/lighter sockets, Pirahna dual battery tray, Redarc BCDC1240, Xantrex LinkPro battery monitor, 600W inverter, ARB onboard air & WaterWatch on AMTS bracket, Phillips 35W HID high beams, UHF, Roadsafe front recovery points, Offroad Systems drawers with integrated water storage with tap concealed in rear tailgate, ARB 47L fridge.[/SIZE]Comment
-
Glad you got it sorted. I sent an email off to the shop with photos but haven't heard back from them yet. Did the Roadsafe supplied nut plates have really big plates on them? I recall advising them that they were a bit too big to get in the holes without trimming, I'm wondering if they changed them as well. If you have a pic that would be great but don't worry if they're too hard to get to now.Originally posted by D4DDave View Post
I'm not sure if they had to drill through my chassis rail but given the stronger bolts are thicker they probably did. Did you get washers and spring washers with your points? Mike mentioned he had to add them but mine came with them as far as I know.Tomorrow night I'll drill the top holes out a tad to 13mm to enable the bolts to pass through (as Mike did above), then after a couple of coats of red oxide on the holes and I should be ready to just bolt the points on!Comment
-
Corine,
I haven't mounted the points yet, so can take a pic tonight, but the size of the plates on the nuts was fine. Just fits through the hole and then plenty of room to rotate them via the wire and get them into position.
Yes I was surprised by Mike's comments too - my kit came with the 12.9 bolts, flat & spring washers - 4 of each. They actually sent 6 nut plates & as we know the 150 only needs 2, so I'll have some spares...
Cheers,
David.[SIZE=2][U]2012 150 Series D4D Kakadu[/U][/SIZE]
[SIZE=1]Wynnum Towbar, Narva Merit/USB/lighter sockets, Pirahna dual battery tray, Redarc BCDC1240, Xantrex LinkPro battery monitor, 600W inverter, ARB onboard air & WaterWatch on AMTS bracket, Phillips 35W HID high beams, UHF, Roadsafe front recovery points, Offroad Systems drawers with integrated water storage with tap concealed in rear tailgate, ARB 47L fridge.[/SIZE]Comment
-
Maybe I was unlucky. They were unopened but definitely no flat or spring washers. I had some anyway so did not need to go back to the store.
MikeComment
-
I mounted my points tonight. Easy to fit, however, my understanding is that the 'bow' of the shackle is meant to run through the eyelet on the recovery point and the strap sit round the pin. The problem I'm having is that due to the proximity of the factory bash plate, there isn't enough room to thread the bow shackle through the point - I can only get the pin through, resulting in the shackle being the other way around.
What have others done about this? Just not worried about it? The equaliser strap is sufficiently long that the strap pulls pretty straight and there is no twisting force on the recovery point by the pin, so it seems reasonably OK, but just interested to check what others have done?
Cheers,
David.[SIZE=2][U]2012 150 Series D4D Kakadu[/U][/SIZE]
[SIZE=1]Wynnum Towbar, Narva Merit/USB/lighter sockets, Pirahna dual battery tray, Redarc BCDC1240, Xantrex LinkPro battery monitor, 600W inverter, ARB onboard air & WaterWatch on AMTS bracket, Phillips 35W HID high beams, UHF, Roadsafe front recovery points, Offroad Systems drawers with integrated water storage with tap concealed in rear tailgate, ARB 47L fridge.[/SIZE]Comment
-
looking for recovery points for 120 with ironman bull barPrado 2008 d4d Auto, Redarc dual battery, 285/70/17 mad hogs, ironman bull bar, Mako TDS 12,000Lb Winch with synthetic rope, MAXTRAX on TraxRax, AJ120 Rock sliders , ironman bashplate, Front and rear ARB air locker,3'LEGENDEX EXHAUST SYSTEMComment
-
That's the way the Roadsafe guy put them when we did the test fit, have a look at the pic back on pg 13, post #183 of this thread. That reminds me, must try a shackle with the points and the Ironman bash plates I have now.Originally posted by D4DDave View PostComment
-
Thanks Corine - fair enough.[SIZE=2][U]2012 150 Series D4D Kakadu[/U][/SIZE]
[SIZE=1]Wynnum Towbar, Narva Merit/USB/lighter sockets, Pirahna dual battery tray, Redarc BCDC1240, Xantrex LinkPro battery monitor, 600W inverter, ARB onboard air & WaterWatch on AMTS bracket, Phillips 35W HID high beams, UHF, Roadsafe front recovery points, Offroad Systems drawers with integrated water storage with tap concealed in rear tailgate, ARB 47L fridge.[/SIZE]Comment
-
Slings should always sit in the "bow" section of the shackle. You should never place a Span/sling on a pin.Originally posted by D4DDave View Post[url="http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread.php?31511-Jono-s-MY14-GXL"]My Rig Build Up[/url]Comment
-
I know I am resurrecting an old thread however just picked up my recovery points today (may make someone more comfortable if they have to recover me on the GTG). I see Andrew has posted a reference to torque settings, however I am wondering what torque you guys used when tightening the bolts. Given that you cannot get a wrench on to the top nut (it is just welded to a thin piece of plate on the end of a wire) I am not all that sure of the integrity of this setup
Cheers.......WayneWhite 2012 GXL 150 TD Auto. Work in progress. Aiming to spend less than when I kitted out the 120!Comment
-
There should be a point where the internal nut won't rotate. Then just torque it up according to the class of bolt you are using. Here is a useful chartOriginally posted by hulbyw View Post
Comment
-
Thanks Andrew. Supplied bolts are 12.9, 12mm so that would be 130 lubricated (does Loctite count as a lube?). My medium size torque wrench only goes to 110 nm however when I tightened the bolts as tight as I could, the wrench didn't even click. So I reckon they are to FT specs but not as tight as your table says. I have marked the bolt heads with a paint stick so will see how they go. You were quite right about the nuts on the plates. They did stop turning fairly easily
Cheers...WayneWhite 2012 GXL 150 TD Auto. Work in progress. Aiming to spend less than when I kitted out the 120!Comment
-
When using Loctite, torque to dry-spec. Might pay to double check that torque wrench of yours as to whether it is Nm of ft.lbs.Comment
Comment