Recovery Points

[fido666 Banned Find all posts View Profile Close fido666]

Hi David,

The top mount hole you have marked in the 2nd photo is the one which needs the nut plate behind it. The one at the bottom/forward end of the chassis where the lower bolt would go already has a captive nut behind it welded to the chassis.

I have the same hydraulic lines as in your 2nd photo and yes the chassis hole is behind that. I'm not 100% sure how the fitter got the nut plate in there but will try and confirm. I notice there is another hole in the chassis on the other side of the strut but I'm not sure if the Roadsafe nut plate will have a long enough wire to reach far enough forward from there. I'll post back once I've spoken to the shop that did the fitting.

Cheers,
Corine

[D4DDave Member Find all posts View Profile Close D4DDave]

Thanks Corine - much appreciated!

Would it be correct to assume that as I don't have a bullbar I don't need the re-designed Roadsafe points either? I might try and get some old stock which has the higher 5000WLL.

Cheers,

David.

[fido666 Banned Find all posts View Profile Close fido666]

No probs David, glad to help where I can. No you don't need the redesigned points unless you are planning to get a TJM bar in the future.

[Cuvier100 Member Find all posts View Profile Close Cuvier100]

Just fitted the Roadsafe (RP-PRA150) tow/recovery brackets (points) to the GXL with a genuine Toyota bulbar.

At first glance I did not think the recovery points would fit as the genuine bullbar uses the front mounting holes to support a bracket which holds each side of the bullbar. This bracket does not extend along the chassis, like the non genine bullbars, and therefore the surfaces dont align.

I removed the front bolts from this bracket and the spacers and reused the spacers under the top mounting point of the recovery points.

The top mounting point holes were too small so I enlarged both with a round file. Then vacuumed up the shavings and sprayed the hole with anti rust black paint.

I added stainless spring and flat washers to the bolts provided by Roadsafe.

When placing the nut (on the wire) behind the hole I bent the wire so that it acted as a lever which then allowed you to force the nut against the inside of the chassis. Its then a piece of cake to align it and hold it in place while you screw in the bolt.

Then I folded the wire for the top nuts inside the hole.

It took about 30 minutes to fit both recovery points. Pics below:



Mike

[Vk3zgw Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close Vk3zgw]

I see you were fortunate enough to get the 5000kg WLL version.

[D4DDave Member Find all posts View Profile Close D4DDave]

I noticed that too. Where did you buy them Mike?

[Cuvier100 Member Find all posts View Profile Close Cuvier100]

I got them from the 4WD shop in Ascot (Perth). Phone 9277 8400, Unit 4/320 Great Eastern Highway Ascot, Perth. Email: [email protected]. $130 - 4WD show special. Normally $145. I think I got the last one in stock but they were reording some more from RoadSafe.

Its a small shop crammed full of 4WD stuff. They are very competitive on prices and will get in any car part and usually pass on the trade discount.

I have have been buying stuff of them for years (mainly car parts). In this case I noticed they were a RoadSafe distributor so gave them a go.

If you are in another State, due to postage costs, it may be better to try one of the local Roadsafe distributors: http://www.roadsafe.com.au/stockists.php?postcode=6000

Mike

[Cuvier100 Member Find all posts View Profile Close Cuvier100]

Duplicate post deleted.

[Vk3zgw Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close Vk3zgw]

I got mine from my local Autobarn for $129, the 3250 kg WLL 'modified' version.

[D4DDave Member Find all posts View Profile Close D4DDave]

Thanks guys.

[Whitey1 Advanced Member Find all posts View Profile Close Whitey1]

What are the bolts rated to? I would think they would be the weakest link.

[fido666 Banned Find all posts View Profile Close fido666]

The supplied bolts are 12.9 HT.

[Whitey1 Advanced Member Find all posts View Profile Close Whitey1]

Correct me if I'm wrong(I'm sure someone will), but isn't the tensile strength of bolts all about being able to tighten them up tight without them twisting off, rather than being able to resist shear forces? Or is there more to it than that?

[Cuvier100 Member Find all posts View Profile Close Cuvier100]

HT bolts are desigend to withstand higher sheer forces and allow tightening at a higher load therefore applying more force between the surfaces to resist sheering.

The following is an extract from the encyclopedia:

Tensile strength

Screws and bolts are usually in tension when properly fitted. In most applications they are not designed to bear large shear forces. For example, when two overlapping metal bars joined by a bolt are likely to be pulled apart longitudinally, the bolt must be tight enough that the friction between the two bars can overcome the longitudinal force. If the bars slip then the bolt may be sheared in half, or friction between the bars (called fretting) may weaken them. For this type of application, high-tensile steel bolts are used and these should be tightened with a torque wrench.

High-tensile bolts are usually in the form of hexagonal cap screws with an ISO strength rating (called property class) stamped on the head. The strength ratings most often used are 8.8 and 12.9. The number before the point is the ultimate tensile strength in N/mm2 (or MPa) divided by 100. This is the stress at which the bolt will fail, i.e. break in half.

The number after the point is the yield strength as a percentage of the ultimate tensile strength, divided by 10. Yield strength is the stress at which the bolt will receive a permanent set (an elongation from which it will not recover when the force is removed) of 0.2%. When elongating a fastener prior to reaching the yield point, the fastener is said to be operating in the elastic region. Whereas elongation beyond the yield point is referred to as operating in the plastic region, since the fastener has suffered permanent plastic deformation.

Mild steel bolts have a 4.6 rating. High-tensile bolts have an 8.8 rating or above.

[Cuvier100 Member Find all posts View Profile Close Cuvier100]

Sheer Strenght

Sorry duplicate post deleted. Not sure why it posts twice! This is the second time.