Dual Battery System

[gt3racer Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close gt3racer]

I am hoping forsome advice regarding a dual battery set up for my 150 series altitude diesel.

Can any one recomend the best tray that fits into the space on on the drivers side to hold a second battery.
I was planning on using a Redarc BCDC1220 or 1240 and was hoping someone may have seen a tray was available that incorporated a mount for the unit.

Secondly, though is the concensus that an expensive bcdc charger really required or will a normal isolater do?

Any and all advice greatfully received.

[krypto Avid PP Poster! Find all posts View Profile Close krypto]

Hi GT3, there are lots of threads and information on this topic, just do a search. There's help if you have further questions.

[LeighW Avid PP Poster! Find all posts View Profile Close LeighW]

A normal isolator and one of my booster diodes will do the same job at a fraction of the cost, if you also
install a Optima 75AH you'll get equivalent AH of other 150AH AGM's and less than 1 hour recharge time.

Why would you consider a DC DC charger if there's no specific need for it?

Cheers
LeighW

[Heath74 Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close Heath74]

Agreed, standard isolator, I think the red arc is tried and proven and a diode booster if you like.

Without opening a can of worms, it's my 'opinion' that if you are only charging the starter and aux batteries the diode is not a must. However if you add a third battery such as in a camper trailer the diode is worthwhile.

Instead of DC DC chargers I'd get a quality 7 stage charger 240 v. And give the batteries a good charge monthly or so.

But there will be plenty of views on this!

[maxjj Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close maxjj]

I fitted a Piranha tray and then used Sidewinder dual battery kit. Personally I don`t like the other trays.
If you are reasonably handy or know someone, its a leisurely half day job.
I have fitted two of these now, Battery Isolator Kit & Cable Set and a diode.
http://www.sidewinder.com.au/page190.html

[rwo Advanced Member Find all posts View Profile Close rwo]

I'm still not convinced you need a tray, the mount platform on the right is nearly identical to the one on the left. A bit of creativity in relocating the AC bracket, a bit of insertion rubber and a battery clamp and your done (well thats how i did it anyway).

[barnesy01 Lurker Find all posts View Profile Close barnesy01]

Here are a couple of snaps of mine.
Redarc 1225 Battery Charger.
70 Amp Hour Battery, Just used the tray provided.
charges the camper, and a couple of extra points in the rear cargo.

[gt3racer Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close gt3racer]

Here are a couple of snaps of mine.
Redarc 1225 Battery Charger.
70 Amp Hour Battery, Just used the tray provided.
charges the camper, and a couple of extra points in the rear cargo.[ATTACH=CONFIG]8202[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]8203[/ATTACH]

Thats awsome, did t you do the install yourself ? Difficult? Are the batteries in the camper and your vehicle Auxillary the same type or different?

[gt3racer Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close gt3racer]

If you are planning on travelling over a lot of corrugated tracks then I would recommend installing the secondary battery in the rear of the vehicle. There is a guard cracking problem with the 150 design. You should really boost the charge rate as because of the distance of the cables from the alternator and the charge rate of the alternator itself.
I see you were considering the Redarc 1220, well that will do the job, or the Ctek 250 Dual.
I would recommend a portable battery box with the anderson plug on it, Derek sells them with the mounting system and all.
The Roo.

Hi ##########.

I have considered the issue with cracked guards as well. What i keep coming back to is that from a visual viewpoint the left and right guards appear to be identical in construction, even to the point where there apppears to be a mounting point on the Drivers side from the battery identical to the drivers side, and I believe that the European Prado's allready have a battry monted there. So if mounting a battery there is going to perhaps cause an issue with cracked guards, isnt this allready also going to be an issue on the drivers side? Has any one been in touch with Toyota regarding thsi, i might perhaps if not seek their advice, if only to get a definitive anwser, and position from a warranty perspective. If the guards are succeptible to cracking surely this is a design flaw, and perhaps even als a safety issue?

[barnesy01 Lurker Find all posts View Profile Close barnesy01]

Thats awsome, did t you do the install yourself ? Difficult? Are the batteries in the camper and your vehicle Auxillary the same type or different?

Had it all done by my Auto Elec. Cost me a $1000. Similar battery to camper, although camper is 100ah.

[John75 Lurker Find all posts View Profile Close John75]

In regards to a Dual battery system, in Particular battery monitors, has anyone installed a Victron BMV 600s or 602s successfully into the 150 Prado, into the dash preferably or in the rear? I have done lots of searches through the forum, and can't seem to find anything substantial on the Victron. There is the standard voltage monitors, but I am looking at the Victron as it monitors voltage, amp hours, rate of discharge etc etc of the second battery, Happy to use the scangauge to monitor voltage of the starting battery. They are roughly $250 on ebay with postage. The 602 model in addition just monitors voltage of the starting battery, which as I said the scangauge will give. Here is a link about it.

http://www.victronenergy.com/battery...nd%20bmv-602s/

Any advice would be appreciated.

Regards John

[gt3racer Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close gt3racer]

Ok I bit the Bullet and set this up on the weekend.

ABR Sidewinder battery tray .. $150.00
Optima Yellow Top Battery .. $235.00
Redarc bcdc 1220 .. .. $310.00
Approx 5.5 Meters Cable … $59.00 (For running to power socket in rear)
About 4m Cable for under bonnet $30.00
Misc Connectors Solder battery terminals etc lets say $35.00
Total = $819.00 plus about 6 Hours of my time.


Under bonnet I used only 6mm wire, soldered all the joins and ran it in flexible conduit.. The connections between the start battery (2) and the BCDC1220 and then to the Aux Battery were pretty straight forward and run under the cover between the grille and the engine bay, there are about a dozen clips that set it free and there is heaps of space. I cable tied it all up and its pretty neat. I also ran a 12 mm Heavy duty earth cable from the auxiliary battery down to the chassis

The bcdc1220 itself I mounted on top of the existing fuse box on the passenger side. Drilled 4 holes through the cover and secured it there.

All I wanted at this point was to get power to the rear compartment to run a fridge. (I’ll get around to Anderson plugs for the camper etc another day) For now I just wanted this done before the christmas road trip. Everyone I spoke to told me it would be overkill but I used 8 mm dual core DC cable. (do not use regular 240v flex as it is not suitable for 12v loads) Sparky’s apparently use 6mm and earth it to the chassis but I wanted to over spec the cable and also wanted to earth back to the battery rather than the chassis at the rear. I ran it from The driver’s side where the second battery sits, across the firewall in conduit cable tied to the existing loom I have mounted an inline fuse near the positive terminal, but will eventually swap it for a circuit breaker. And then down to the chassis on the passenger side. From here I ran it inside the chassis rail, exiting at the rear and from here up into the rear quarter (there is an access point and rubber boot to feed it through). All exposed cable has been enclosed in conduit and secured with cable ties. Inside the luggage area I drilled a 22 mm hole to mount the power socket, just to the right and slightly above the jack storage compartment. Be careful before drilling the hole that where you have planned allows enough depth to take the socket there squite a bit of gear in there already and it would be a shame to have extra holes..

Connected it all up and it was working first go. Given that an auto sparky wanted 5 to 600 dollars to wire it all up (Including 4 & 6 mm cable but nothing else) , I have to say I am pretty pleased. Go’s to show that anyone with a modicum of ability can do this work without too much to fear, Take it slowly and seek advice (and more importantly follow it) where you are not sure, which brings me to my next point.

A huge thanks to the guys here who offered opinions, advice and even assistance. This site is such a great resource for those of us that have the Prado bug. Whilst I may have done it differently to someone or chosen different equipment, the experience of other members is invaluable in coming to decisions of which way to go.

If anyone wants any specific pictures of my install or multimeter readings etc or even just to ask how did you ….. ? , just drop me a line and I’ll surely oblige.
Again thanks to all and happy Holidays.

Chris

[Tauras Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close Tauras]

Well done GT3, couple of questions...

What did you connect the ignition to on the BCDC?
What battery specifically did you install?

I took a slightly different approach to wiring to the rear, I ran twin 8mm and twin 13mm, connecting 4x power sockets and an anderson plug. I ran these on the passenger side under the kick trim, its a tight fit but if you cut away some of the ribbing in the kick plates its a snug fit.

[gt3racer Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close gt3racer]

Hi Taurus, I considered using the cable trays under the kick plates as well but from expeience in my last prado, the issue is running too many cables throgh the rubber boot in the firewall, eventually there are too many holes in the boot and water does get in and (mine at least) started to get that water / danky smell.
I was unsure about the ignion wire so I rang Redarc, and their advice was that on a 12v install it should be connected directly to 12v source. Only on a 24v install was it advised to connect it to a switched ignition source.

The battery is Optima Yellow Top, D34 750CCA 55AH

Eventually I will run cable for an anderson plug to the rear. I was going to Put a distribution box in the rear and run multiple sockets etc but realisticly Its only the fridge I need power for. Perhgaps a rear work light one day and if so I'll revisit it then.

[Tauras Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close Tauras]

Which 12v source did you connect it to?