Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Fitting a winch to TJM T13 bar

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • The one you have is better than the option, it looks ok actually. Let me me check the specs tomorrow. Busy weekend.
    My 150 build - http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread.php?27423-A-Random-approach-to-a-Bluestorm-150-GXL-D4D-automatic

    Comment


    • Doh! I went back yesterday and swapped the 11FC for the 227. I figured the tube would be easier to work with than a caulking gun.

      Comment


      • Hmmmm send hubby back to change it to the 11FC. That looks ok. The 227 looks like a seam sealer (more to glue panels together and then be painted over). Though in all liklihood it will work too.
        My 150 build - http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread.php?27423-A-Random-approach-to-a-Bluestorm-150-GXL-D4D-automatic

        Comment


        • I would have thought the 227 being a specific automotive product would be more suitable. The 11FC is shown on the website being used to fill cracks in concrete and glue metal to concrete, etc.

          Argh! Why didn't I just buy a simple silicone LOL?

          Comment


          • Because you over thought it! Probably my fault for the neutral cure comment earlier. Do you know any mechanics around the place? They probably have the loctite gasket stuff that would work too. You only need a little bit. In any case use what you have and see how it goes. It wont take much just make sure you fill the o ring groove.
            My 150 build - http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread.php?27423-A-Random-approach-to-a-Bluestorm-150-GXL-D4D-automatic

            Comment


            • Originally posted by mjrandom View Post
              Because you over thought it!
              Yes, I am good at that :-)

              Probably my fault for the neutral cure comment earlier.
              No, more so the mention of Sikaflex as I have seen it referred to in build threads, etc.

              Do you know any mechanics around the place? They probably have the loctite gasket stuff that would work too. You only need a little bit.
              Not really, the local panel shop guy is more helpful in that regard. Don't make me think about another possible product LOL!

              In any case use what you have and see how it goes. It wont take much just make sure you fill the o ring groove.
              Yes, that's why I think a tube will be easier to work with, the o-ring groove is pretty thin.

              Comment


              • My travels took me past Bunnings today so I returned the Sikaflex 227 and sought advice from the paint shop guys (that's where all the silicones, etc are kept). After some deliberation and a call to the Sikaflex rep it came down to a choice between the 227 and one of their engineering sealants (Sikaflex Pro IIRC) but that only came in a big caulking tube. On the Sika chart in-store it did show that for metal to metal sealing in an automotive setting the 227 was the appropriate product.

                So I've come back home with the 227 and a smaller tube of Selleys Roof & Gutter Silicone (since it's for metal to metal application), it's neutral cure. If you think the Selleys will do the job I'll use that, it's cheaper too.
                Last edited by fido666; 23-04-2013, 12:54 PM.

                Comment


                • I've used roof and gutter stuff for similar duties before and it is fine. No exposure to heat or hydrocarbons so I reckon go with that.
                  My 150 build - http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread.php?27423-A-Random-approach-to-a-Bluestorm-150-GXL-D4D-automatic

                  Comment


                  • Won't the winch solenoid get hot? Excuse my ignorance but it is a big lump of metal.

                    Comment


                    • This is well out of my area of ignorance now. I didn't think the winch control boxes got that hot but happy for someone who knows to chime in. Is the box plastic or metal??? And the Sikaflex I have been using is the Pro IIRC. I didn't suggest it because it is expensive and only comes in 200L containers.
                      My 150 build - http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread.php?27423-A-Random-approach-to-a-Bluestorm-150-GXL-D4D-automatic

                      Comment


                      • The box is metal, cast aluminum I believe.

                        Sikaflex Pro does come in cartridges too :-

                        http://www.bunnings.com.au/products_...bType=products

                        I can't see the 227 being any less suited to the job though; it's easier to work with in the tube, it's black!

                        ETA: Some food for thought here :-
                        http://www.patrol4x4.com/forum/auto-...-months-77918/

                        I know it's the Pootrol forum but it's the same box and application.
                        Last edited by fido666; 23-04-2013, 03:00 PM.

                        Comment


                        • After seeing some of the solenoids in that Patrol forum thread I have been looking around online for rubber grommets or plugs to use if I decide to drill a drain hole in the control box. It needs to be able to be removed without dismantling the box or having to remove the box from the bullbar if possible. I can't seem to find anything appropriate so welcome any suggestions.

                          Comment


                          • Dometic fridges in campers have a little collector for condensate that has an overflow. Bit like a grommet with integral hosepipe. Worth a call to a van place..
                            My 150 build - http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread.php?27423-A-Random-approach-to-a-Bluestorm-150-GXL-D4D-automatic

                            Comment


                            • OK, will do.

                              Comment


                              • I have taken the control box back to the auto electrician who put the longer cables on a while back. I wasn't happy with the way they finished off the cables where they enter the box as they left bare copper showing. The cable they used was a bit too thick to fit in the existing grommets together with the insulation. Now they are trying to source different grommets and were even talking about making the holes in the base of the box a little bigger to accommodate them if needed.

                                If I had known how much trouble this winch was going to be to get installed and wired up I would have just gone to one of the big boys in the first place. So much for saving money, with the winch at $639 and the work on the box costing me $120 I've already spent $750 and I don't yet have a working winch!

                                Anyway, while I'm waiting for the box to be re-done I need a way to protect the terminals on the motor casing, I have noticed the bolts are starting to rust a bit. Will spraying them with RP7 or WD40 be enough?
                                Last edited by fido666; 21-06-2013, 05:24 PM.

                                Comment

                                Working...
                                X