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  • You did well David, thanks for the extra pics.

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    • Some really good idea here fellas! Can't wait to get the new truck and get started on my false floor.
      2014 Toyota Prado 150 D4D Auto (facelift); ARB Deluxe Bullbar; OME 2" Lift; Rhino Pioneer Platform Rack; Redarc BCDC 1225 with Optima Yellow Top; BF Goodrich Mud Terrain KM2; Lightforce Genuine Custom 70w HID; GME UHF; Safari Snorkel; Rigid Industry SR-Q2 side lights (yet to be installed); Domin8or winch (yet to be installed)

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      • Originally posted by SuperDavid View Post
        when trying to line up the bolts for the holes I ended up putting the bolts into the bolt holes, and then putting the cut out ply onto the bolts and giving it a light hit aprox where the bolts were. Leaves an impression on the wood.
        Another tip is to use bolts that have slightly raised edges on the outer edge of the bolt head. I didn't and the marks left were more of a scrape them a dent, as a result the holes ended up a fair bit off center. Will need to file them out now as the hole needs to be lengthened to fit.

        Also when drilling marine ply make sure you have a piece of scrap timber underneath or splintering will result.

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        • For those guys who have removed the seats to install the false floor, do you any tips on finishing of the sides or close up pictures of the end result?
          2010 Prado 150 GXL Diesel, Cooper AT3, ARB compressor, Catch Can, Redarc BCDC 1225, Projecta DBC150, Optima YellowTop and RedTop D34, Pioneer Backbone Platform

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          • Look at my build. I showed a couple of shots. In short I built the wings out of mdf. Not too tricky just take your time.

            Here

            http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread...l=1#post397116

            And finished off here

            http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread...l=1#post398578
            mjrandom
            Out of control poster!
            Last edited by mjrandom; 19-03-2014, 09:52 AM.
            My 150 build - http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread.php?27423-A-Random-approach-to-a-Bluestorm-150-GXL-D4D-automatic

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            • Originally posted by SandRunner View Post
              OK. It's done....

              Little bit of messing around but its all sorted. Here are some pics

              The ply cut to shape..

              [ATTACH=CONFIG]13364[/ATTACH]

              Sealed and covered with marine carpet..

              [ATTACH=CONFIG]13365[/ATTACH]

              Bolted down to the rear of my car..

              [ATTACH=CONFIG]13367[/ATTACH]

              Tie downs on and used an old Toyota rubber mat for non slip under the fridge..

              [ATTACH=CONFIG]13368[/ATTACH]

              In the car (less the tie down straps but you get the idea)..
              Ok guys, I have a second piece of marine ply that I made up from the off cut of the sheet I bought to do my floor. I don't need this second bit so its up for sale......

              For Sale : Marine ply cut to shape to fit the rear of a 150 series GXL. Ready for you to carpet and bolt in to your car.

              Price : $80.00

              Location : Springfield, Qld

              Contact : Drop me an email at [email protected]

              Click image for larger version

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              • Originally posted by mullerwh View Post
                For those guys who have removed the seats to install the false floor, do you any tips on finishing of the sides or close up pictures of the end result?
                I shamelessly copied MJR's idea, although mine is fixed with some custom brackets bolted to the wood floor and countersunk bolts (same as the one fixing my floor) that go through the infills and into the brackets. They are fixed very securely and the end result is well worth the effort, even though it probably took longer to build the infill panels than the floor!

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                • Hi all
                  I am considering buying fridge/freezer for touring & camping. I expect I will also buy a fridge slide - maybe even a drop down. I have a box in boot area of my 150. Sort of like drawers but with a lift-up front. I then slide 4 plastic boxes inside with some of my camping gear. I have slide out table LHS above the box section and an insert for my huge esky on RHS. My question: What are the merits of LHS or RHS for a fridge? The fridge will come out if camping for any length of time. Near rear door seems fine so I can use my table as well for food prep. Your advice would be appreciated.
                  Prado GXL 2012 Charcoal - Drifta Drawers, Cargo Barrier, Sidewinder Dual Battery kit, Ironman Bar, Narva lights, Safari Snorkel, Airbags, TX3350 kit, Waeco CFX65DZ - often seen with Thule 2.2M narrow roof pod and towing 2014 Kimberley Kamper. Could be anywhere!

                  Comment


                  • Originally posted by rwo View Post
                    I shamelessly copied MJR's idea, although mine is fixed with some custom brackets bolted to the wood floor and countersunk bolts (same as the one fixing my floor) that go through the infills and into the brackets. They are fixed very securely and the end result is well worth the effort, even though it probably took longer to build the infill panels than the floor!
                    Where are the pics???

                    I have only fitted mine with double sided foam tape and they wedge in well. Was handy when I ran the solar feed, just pull the wing off and run the cable and put it back.
                    My 150 build - http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread.php?27423-A-Random-approach-to-a-Bluestorm-150-GXL-D4D-automatic

                    Comment


                    • Originally posted by mjrandom View Post
                      Where are the pics???

                      I have only fitted mine with double sided foam tape and they wedge in well. Was handy when I ran the solar feed, just pull the wing off and run the cable and put it back.
                      They are on my camera, but that's as far as they made it

                      I did think about the double sided tape, but my wings are made out of the same 19mm CD ply, so they are pretty thick/heavy and I'm not sure tape would have held so I went looking for a better solution.

                      BTW, did you use double sided tape to stick the carpet around the bits near the door trim and if so what sort of tape did you use? I got some body trim tape from supercrap, and it was, well SUPER-CRAP!

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                      • I shaped the carpet around the curved bits by putting contact adhesive glue on the back and then letting that go hard and bending the carpet to shape, cutting bit by bit (little wedgies) until the shape was right. Then I added more glue and got the final shape. I put the double sided tape on the trims and the board but not sure how much it is doing on the trims. I can pull gently and remove the wings but they don't move when installed. The tape I used is the same stuff I use on RC gear to hold in the naughty bits. About 1mm of foam with tape both sides.
                        My 150 build - http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread.php?27423-A-Random-approach-to-a-Bluestorm-150-GXL-D4D-automatic

                        Comment


                        • Hi all
                          I am considering buying fridge/freezer for touring & camping. I expect I will also buy a fridge slide - maybe even a drop down. I have a box in boot area of my 150. Sort of like drawers but with a lift-up front. I then slide 4 plastic boxes inside with some of my camping gear. I have slide out table LHS above the box section and an insert for my huge esky on RHS. My question: What are the merits of LHS or RHS for a fridge? The fridge will come out if camping for any length of time. Near rear door seems fine so I can use my table as well for food prep. Your advice would be appreciated.
                          Prado GXL 2012 Charcoal - Drifta Drawers, Cargo Barrier, Sidewinder Dual Battery kit, Ironman Bar, Narva lights, Safari Snorkel, Airbags, TX3350 kit, Waeco CFX65DZ - often seen with Thule 2.2M narrow roof pod and towing 2014 Kimberley Kamper. Could be anywhere!

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                          • My power is on the left so that where the fridge is. Also I dont have open the door very far to get into the fridge on the left.

                            Sent from my GT-I9305T using Tapatalk
                            2013 [COLOR="#006699"][B][SIZE=2]Blue Storm[/SIZE][/B][/COLOR] D4D 150 GXL Auto, Opposite Lock Bullbar, Safari Snorkel, GME 3345 UHF + AE4018 Antenna, HR Tow Bar, TG150, HD Rhino Roof Racks, Foxwing, Dual Batteries, C-Tek DCDC Charger, ARB 47L Fridge, ScanGauge II, Internal Fishing Rod Storage, X-Ray Vision HIDs and LEDs, New PP Sticker.... [COLOR="#808080"][SIZE=1][/SIZE][/COLOR]
                            My Rig [URL="http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread.php?27406-Steve-s-Blue-Storm-150-GXL"]http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread.php?27406-Steve-s-Blue-Storm-150-GXL[/URL]

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                            • Originally posted by peterpanner View Post
                              What are the merits of LHS or RHS for a fridge? The fridge will come out if camping for any length of time. Near rear door seems fine so I can use my table as well for food prep. Your advice would be appreciated.
                              It's somewhat dependent on whether your fridge opens to the side or on the end. Some fridges allow you to move the hinges from one side or end to the other, some don't. My outlets have gone on the left side as I have a taller fridge, I would prefer to keep the area behind the driver free of obstructions. It also meant that there was a nearby spot to hide the fuse panel. In my case it's gone in the space where the jack goes as I don't have the accessory box spot available (the Kakadu has a subwoofer there). The accessory sockets have been flush mounted in the rear edge of the plastic around the wheel arch, less chance of them getting knocked there.

                              Comment


                              • I had my fridge on the left side in the 120 and it is on the right in the 150. I prefer it on the right because I can more easily read the information on the fridge panel. No real issue either way. I do find that if the fridge is on the left the rear door needs to be wide open to access the fridge whereas on the right you only need to get through the opening to get into the fridge.
                                My 150 build - http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread.php?27423-A-Random-approach-to-a-Bluestorm-150-GXL-D4D-automatic

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