Fridge Mounting

[mjrandom Out of control poster! Find all posts View Profile Close mjrandom]

Up to you I didn't seat the structural ply. I don't think it will get wet enough to be a concern.

[ttmx83 Member Find all posts View Profile Close ttmx83]

I used formply to make my setup, with thinner marine ply for the drawer. The formply is bloody heavy! But I like that is has the layer on it making it resistant to water, which I also painted before covering. I used a combination of spray and in the can contact adhesive and staples where they wouldn't be seen. You need to use a LOT of the glue though and it is super messy! The smell was gone after a few days sitting in the shed whilst drying.

You can just see on the left side the section next to the fridge is hinged, it swings toward the fridge just enough to get to the jack and side compartments.

This is in a GX so I didn't need to take anything out of the car (seats or floor)




Cheers Brad

[fido666 Banned Find all posts View Profile Close fido666]

We picked up the marine ply from Masters in a 2440 x 1220 x 15mm sheet which they cut down for us for free. There's a lot left over, could probably make another floor from the offcut, unfortunately it doesn't come in sheets quite the right size. Advice from the timber guy there was to seal it before gluing the carpet to it so we have some marine sealant as well and some synthetic turf glue. Plan is to cut it to shape today and put a coat of sealant on one side but I'm wondering if we should drill the bolt holes before applying the sealant. I thought I should leave the purchasing of bolts till we knew the exact thickness it would all end up being, not so sure if that was a wise move now.

@Brad, Are you happy with the Waeco slide? It seems to be the most keenly priced one that will fit our CFX65 DZ.

[rwo Advanced Member Find all posts View Profile Close rwo]

I cut the board, drilled holes, sealed the board then applied the carpet (and used a sharp screw driver to punch the holes through the carpet). IMHO it's more important to seal the cut edges and drilled holes than the faces of the board.

Not sure if you have acquired a good solid staple gun yet, but this will definitely be required to staple around the board to hold the carpet tight and in the correct place while the glue goes off. I applied all staples to the underside so none are visible when the board is installed.

I also used the waeco slide, can't beat it for about $250 at bcf! I am fortunate that I have the old CF50, so it actually fits the smaller CFX40 slide and I can still fit my 60l ice box next to the fridge in the back

[ttmx83 Member Find all posts View Profile Close ttmx83]

Fido, the slide is good, the Fridge bolts to it from underneath and it operates smoothly and I'm glad I have it.

Cheers Brad.

[fido666 Banned Find all posts View Profile Close fido666]

I cut the board, drilled holes, sealed the board then applied the carpet (and used a sharp screw driver to punch the holes through the carpet). IMHO it's more important to seal the cut edges and drilled holes than the faces of the board.

I was thinking the same thing but wanted to get started so have already sealed the edges and one side of the board. I can always touch up the edges of the holes on the side I have already varnished, no biggie. I will do the other face once the holes are drilled.

Not sure if you have acquired a good solid staple gun yet, but this will definitely be required to staple around the board to hold the carpet tight and in the correct place while the glue goes off.

No don't have one yet, was going to try borrowing one off a friend who has every tool known to man I think.

I also used the waeco slide, can't beat it for about $250 at bcf!

If only the bigger slide was that cheap! The one I need is around $330 on Ebay with postage included so not too much more.

Fido, the slide is good, the Fridge bolts to it from underneath and it operates smoothly and I'm glad I have it.

Yes that's a rather nifty feature being able to bolt the slide to the fridge which you won't get using another brand of slide. Do you still use the tie down straps as well?

[ttmx83 Member Find all posts View Profile Close ttmx83]

Not using the straps, I wanted to but I can't get the back one on because of the cargo barrier! Decided the bolts will suffice.

Must make half barrier one day....

Cheers Brad

[fido666 Banned Find all posts View Profile Close fido666]

Not using the straps, I wanted to but I can't get the back one on because of the cargo barrier!

I take it the fridge surround in your drawer setup is preventing you reaching the back of the slide with the fridge slid out?

[ttmx83 Member Find all posts View Profile Close ttmx83]

Spot on. Once I make a half barrier, I'll be able to fold the rear seat down to access from there.

Cheers Brad

[fido666 Banned Find all posts View Profile Close fido666]

You could cut your current barrier down and weld a new bottom channel on to it? Says me who has no welding gear or skills (but can handle a soldering iron just fine) :-).

[SuperDavid Member Find all posts View Profile Close SuperDavid]

I was thinking the same thing but wanted to get started so have already sealed the edges and one side of the board. I can always touch up the edges of the holes on the side I have already varnished, no biggie. I will do the other face once the holes are drilled.



No don't have one yet, was going to try borrowing one off a friend who has every tool known to man I think.



If only the bigger slide was that cheap! The one I need is around $330 on Ebay with postage included so not too much more.



Yes that's a rather nifty feature being able to bolt the slide to the fridge which you won't get using another brand of slide. Do you still use the tie down straps as well?

Make your own slide if money is an issue!
The rails are cheap to buy and easy to put together. Thats what I did. (I have no carpentry skills or experience)
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/1000mm-he...9f24905&_uhb=1

[fido666 Banned Find all posts View Profile Close fido666]

Make your own slide if money is an issue!
The rails are cheap to buy and easy to put together. Thats what I did. (I have no carpentry skills or experience)

Money not so much an issue as time, I've seen your pics before and figured it can't be that hard.

[SuperDavid Member Find all posts View Profile Close SuperDavid]

Money not so much an issue as time, I've seen your pics before and figured it can't be that hard.

Yeah its not hard, if I can do it anyone can! Money wasn't the issue for me..but I was on holidays so I had the time. that and I'm naturally stingy.

[fido666 Banned Find all posts View Profile Close fido666]

How thick is the piece of timber you used for the slide? Do the runners attach to the bottom edge of it somehow or just on the sides of the shelf itself?

[SuperDavid Member Find all posts View Profile Close SuperDavid]

yes, to the sides of the shelf its self. Those runners have heaps of holes in them, so you can put alot of screws in. I only have 4 in per side, I guess I could put more to be safe.
I used 18mm ply from bunnings I think it was 1200 X 900 so I only had to make one cut.

This inside part of the rail can detatch from the rest of the slide, take that out and self tap that onto the side of your fridge platform.


Then you can put those back into the rest of the slide with the platform attached, slide it out to full extension and all the holes in the outer part of the slide will line up so you can self tap that to your pieces of wood. I did this on the floor and put a book of the correct thickness under the fride platform to keep it all level.


Now that the slide is complete self tap the wood to the false floor with L brackets.


Some might say its a bit ghetto and cheap......BUT its rock solid and I'm proud to have done it myself......and saved $200