Fridge Mounting

[SuperDavid Member Find all posts View Profile Close SuperDavid]

These are the ones I bought. http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item...d=170640734857
Seems like a much better option than spending $300 on a proper slide. The only thing I don't really like is at full extension it doesn't feel as solid as I thought it would be. Says it's rated to 100kg and maybe it is. But i feel like it droops a tad right at the end. So I'll just not go right to the end.
It has lock out so it won't slide back in but it does not have lock in so it doesn't slide out while you're driving. I'm going to rig up my own latch. With the money saved I think it's worth it.

[SuperDavid Member Find all posts View Profile Close SuperDavid]

I made up a latch.....Its rough as guts and looks fairly ugly. But it does the trick and its pretty solid.

I might do up something better if I come across the right bits and pieces.

[Bushbasher Out of control poster! Find all posts View Profile Close Bushbasher]

Just thought I would share my fridge mount. When looking at options I found that most use tie down straps which I find are a pain to undo when I want to take the fridge out to use in the caravan / boat / house. Then I discovered a great thing that engel sell called the 'transit slide-lok'. So I bought one and made my slide using 50x3 aluminium angle and some heavy duty locking drawer slides. Mounted the slide lok to the slide and mounted that to a piece of 18mm marine ply that is secured in place using the tie down points. My 40L engel clicks onto the slide in a couple of seconds.

Cheers,
Roadblock

Are those pop rivets securing the bottom of the slides to the ply base? From the sound of things you've done a good job of securing the base to the car floor but you don't want a weak link that could see 50 odd kilos of fridge coming over the back seat and smacking you in the head in an unintentional incident.

[fido666 Banned Find all posts View Profile Close fido666]

Does anyone who has made a false floor for the 150 GXL, VX, or Kakadu without removing the 3rd row seats have a pic of how the tie down points are used with the floor? Looking at my tie down points today I see they are just slots so I can't figure out how the bolts are used to secure a floor to them. I'm concerned about the weight of a 65L fridge when it is full sitting on the back of the seats, need to sort out a false floor at a minimum.

[SuperDavid Member Find all posts View Profile Close SuperDavid]

they are bolted in. if you open tie down point you'll see a flap of plastic that you can flip up. Under that is the bolt. Use a key or screwdriver..comes up very easily.

unbolt the tie down points. get longer bolts and then run your bolts through the false floor into the original bolt holes.
If you use 18mm ply wood use M6 60mm bolts. The length works well.

[fido666 Banned Find all posts View Profile Close fido666]

Thanks David, will have a look at it tomorrow.

[mjrandom Out of control poster! Find all posts View Profile Close mjrandom]

Fido I used the tie downs as well even though I took the seats out. The tie downs are a steel frame in a plastic trim. I drilled two out to take M8 cap head screws and left the front at M6. You need to notch out the board but it isn't hard.

[SuperDavid Member Find all posts View Profile Close SuperDavid]

I'm starting to think I should have side mounted my fridge slide rails. It has a nice low profile right now...but that flex at the end bothers me. If I side mounted them, there would be no flex anywhere, but would make the profile higher and wider......not sure if I can be bothered.

[fido666 Banned Find all posts View Profile Close fido666]

I have the slide rails in the luggage area like these :-



Pic is of a VX but mine are the same.

I see VXWesty has used luggage hooks from Pelican Parts with these rails as tie downs :-

http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread...-s-2011-VX-D4D

But how do you use them with a false floor?

[mjrandom Out of control poster! Find all posts View Profile Close mjrandom]

Fido you could use a T bolt in the slot or it looks to me like a channel nut will slide in the slot just like the Rhino awning. That way you could bolt through the false floor or fit some rails (ARB make some) and bolt through these into the channel nuts. Then you can still have tie downs in the false floor. Channel nuts are item 7 in this attachment

http://vpm.cdn.rhinorack.com.au/Inst...unseekerII.pdf

These are ARBs rails but there are others around

http://www.arb.com.au/products/gener...r-accessories/

Edit: the ARB channel comes with countersunk M6 screws and you can get M6 channel nuts.

[fido666 Banned Find all posts View Profile Close fido666]

Thanks MJ, the rail idea might be the go. Would these Supercheap ones do the same job?

http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/onl...om=90201#Cross

[mjrandom Out of control poster! Find all posts View Profile Close mjrandom]

Looks more or less the same track to me. I put the ARB track in the back of the ute to hold the fridge in place. Works really well no reason why it wouldn't be as good in the back of the Prado. Check that channel nuts fit in the slots in the back, go to a roofrack place and do a test fit.

Not sure if you have access to a router but if you fit 18mm ply you could rout a slot 6mm or so deep and recess the track to keep the top nice and flat with the carpet on the board. You will need that sort of thickness since the board will only be fixed at the edges. Look for those cabinet maker screw in nuts too for fixing your fridge in.

[SuperDavid Member Find all posts View Profile Close SuperDavid]

I re did the slide so the runners are side mounted now. Much better, very solid all the way to the end.

[mjrandom Out of control poster! Find all posts View Profile Close mjrandom]

Good work SD. I am going to have to do this for the fridge in the Rodeo. Someone is sick of climbing up on the tailgate to get into the fridge. Not sure it will make that much difference though as the lack of vertical displacement will be the same!

[SuperDavid Member Find all posts View Profile Close SuperDavid]

haha yeah, give it a crack anyway. It sure beats paying $300 for a pre made slide, and now I can safely say its just as solid and smooth as a pre made slide.
I'm glad I saved $200 and did it myself!