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    saftgt
    Junior Member

  • saftgt
    replied
    HI, I have change to a upright Kings 85 liter fridge with a 5 year warranty. No 42 kg slide needed and so much easier to find the beers. I made a wooden frame. Bolted the fridge to the frame and used standard door hinges to "plug and play" the fridge when required. The hinges are screwed to the false floor.

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  • shakergt351
    Junior Member

  • shakergt351
    replied
    Some nice ideas in this thread. Does anyone happen to have measurements for the bolt hole locations for the tie down points? I am looking to only do the false floor for the left-hand side at the moment.

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  • Boneyone
    Member

  • Boneyone
    replied
    Originally posted by Pearl150 View Post
    Spend your money on a MSA drop fridge slide if your going to get draws in the future. They are the duck guts. Cheers
    MSA fridge slide has lots of pinch points and weighs 42Kg, really not worth it.

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  • mjrandom
    Out of control poster!

  • mjrandom
    replied
    Not 100% sure what you are asking. The factory tie down points have a plastic tab which you lift to expose the bolt. To reuse the tiedowns you will need to make a recess in the ply floor and use longer bolts.

    http://www.pradopoint.com.au/showthr...l=1#post398578

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  • mjrdmo
    replied
    Originally posted by OutdoorsMan View Post
    I just used the factory tie down points on the rear of the 3rd row seats. Remove factory tie downs, install false floor, insert new M6 x 400mm Bolts. Job done.
    So how did you remove the factory tie down points? I've made a false floor from ply and carpeted it, but simply made holes through the ply to use the factory tie downs for the fridge on one side and a storage box on the other. It's OK but I'd originally wanted to bolt it down but couldn't work out how. Any advice appreciated.

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  • OutdoorsMan
    Junior Member

  • OutdoorsMan
    replied
    Originally posted by mjrandom View Post
    Thems long bolts!
    You should see how thick the plywood is! Haha nah typo on the small iPhone keypad. 40mm.

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  • mjrandom
    Out of control poster!

  • mjrandom
    replied
    Originally posted by OutdoorsMan View Post
    I just used the factory tie down points on the rear of the 3rd row seats. Remove factory tie downs, install false floor, insert new M6 x 400mm Bolts. Job done.
    Thems long bolts!

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  • OutdoorsMan
    Junior Member

  • OutdoorsMan
    replied
    I just used the factory tie down points on the rear of the 3rd row seats. Remove factory tie downs, install false floor, insert new M6 x 400mm Bolts. Job done.

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  • saftgt
    Junior Member

  • saftgt
    replied
    Hi

    I am also looking at keeping the 3rd of seats, however both can be folded away when I want to travel.

    please can someone post pictures on how the false floor is secured over the 3rd. row of seats. I have tried and the weight of the drop down fridge lifts the 3rd of seats. The other problem when the 3rd row of seats are folded away the floor is not level as others have shown on this thread.

    I am not sure what mount points are use.

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  • OutdoorsMan
    Junior Member

  • OutdoorsMan
    replied
    Sorry to drag up an old thread, I've been working on my own version of a false floor and fridge slide including a box and retaining the use of one of the 3rd row seats. Coming up okay, just a few finishing touches and then lining it to go.



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  • peterpanner
    Junior Member

  • peterpanner
    replied
    Thanks for the responses. I just purchased a Waeco CFX65DZ. Yeehah! 25% off at the big snake shop

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  • peterpanner
    Junior Member

  • peterpanner
    replied
    Thanks. Keep the suggestions coming. I won't be using a van or trailer - I am an oztenter. I am able to fully open back door without obstruction.

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  • Bushbasher
    Out of control poster!

  • Bushbasher
    replied
    My 60l fridge is on the left and the 40l freezer is on the right. Something to consider when you find that one fridge/freezer just isn't enough for those big trips. I did have one Engel in the rear as a freezer and another Engel with the extended lid as a fridge on the floor behind the front passenger seat after completely removing the middle row of seats. This was a pain because it was a real B to get in and out and the lid wouldn't open fully. Another thing to consider is how far will your door open if you have a trailer/van hitched up? Opening my door fully, I can slide out either fridge and stand on the trailer hitch to get into the fridge. Sometimes, dependent on ground level and alignment with the trailer I can't open the door fully so am unable to access the right side fridge.

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  • mjrandom
    Out of control poster!

  • mjrandom
    replied
    I had my fridge on the left side in the 120 and it is on the right in the 150. I prefer it on the right because I can more easily read the information on the fridge panel. No real issue either way. I do find that if the fridge is on the left the rear door needs to be wide open to access the fridge whereas on the right you only need to get through the opening to get into the fridge.

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  • fido666
    replied
    Originally posted by peterpanner View Post
    What are the merits of LHS or RHS for a fridge? The fridge will come out if camping for any length of time. Near rear door seems fine so I can use my table as well for food prep. Your advice would be appreciated.
    It's somewhat dependent on whether your fridge opens to the side or on the end. Some fridges allow you to move the hinges from one side or end to the other, some don't. My outlets have gone on the left side as I have a taller fridge, I would prefer to keep the area behind the driver free of obstructions. It also meant that there was a nearby spot to hide the fuse panel. In my case it's gone in the space where the jack goes as I don't have the accessory box spot available (the Kakadu has a subwoofer there). The accessory sockets have been flush mounted in the rear edge of the plastic around the wheel arch, less chance of them getting knocked there.

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