My power is on the left so that where the fridge is. Also I dont have open the door very far to get into the fridge on the left.
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Hi all
I am considering buying fridge/freezer for touring & camping. I expect I will also buy a fridge slide - maybe even a drop down. I have a box in boot area of my 150. Sort of like drawers but with a lift-up front. I then slide 4 plastic boxes inside with some of my camping gear. I have slide out table LHS above the box section and an insert for my huge esky on RHS. My question: What are the merits of LHS or RHS for a fridge? The fridge will come out if camping for any length of time. Near rear door seems fine so I can use my table as well for food prep. Your advice would be appreciated.
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I shaped the carpet around the curved bits by putting contact adhesive glue on the back and then letting that go hard and bending the carpet to shape, cutting bit by bit (little wedgies) until the shape was right. Then I added more glue and got the final shape. I put the double sided tape on the trims and the board but not sure how much it is doing on the trims. I can pull gently and remove the wings but they don't move when installed. The tape I used is the same stuff I use on RC gear to hold in the naughty bits. About 1mm of foam with tape both sides.
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They are on my camera, but that's as far as they made itOriginally posted by mjrandom View PostWhere are the pics???
I have only fitted mine with double sided foam tape and they wedge in well. Was handy when I ran the solar feed, just pull the wing off and run the cable and put it back.
I did think about the double sided tape, but my wings are made out of the same 19mm CD ply, so they are pretty thick/heavy and I'm not sure tape would have held so I went looking for a better solution.
BTW, did you use double sided tape to stick the carpet around the bits near the door trim and if so what sort of tape did you use? I got some body trim tape from supercrap, and it was, well SUPER-CRAP!
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Where are the pics???Originally posted by rwo View PostI shamelessly copied MJR's idea, although mine is fixed with some custom brackets bolted to the wood floor and countersunk bolts (same as the one fixing my floor) that go through the infills and into the brackets. They are fixed very securely and the end result is well worth the effort, even though it probably took longer to build the infill panels than the floor!
I have only fitted mine with double sided foam tape and they wedge in well. Was handy when I ran the solar feed, just pull the wing off and run the cable and put it back.
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Hi all
I am considering buying fridge/freezer for touring & camping. I expect I will also buy a fridge slide - maybe even a drop down. I have a box in boot area of my 150. Sort of like drawers but with a lift-up front. I then slide 4 plastic boxes inside with some of my camping gear. I have slide out table LHS above the box section and an insert for my huge esky on RHS. My question: What are the merits of LHS or RHS for a fridge? The fridge will come out if camping for any length of time. Near rear door seems fine so I can use my table as well for food prep. Your advice would be appreciated.
Leave a comment:
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I shamelessly copied MJR's idea, although mine is fixed with some custom brackets bolted to the wood floor and countersunk bolts (same as the one fixing my floor) that go through the infills and into the brackets. They are fixed very securely and the end result is well worth the effort, even though it probably took longer to build the infill panels than the floor!Originally posted by mullerwh View PostFor those guys who have removed the seats to install the false floor, do you any tips on finishing of the sides or close up pictures of the end result?
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Ok guys, I have a second piece of marine ply that I made up from the off cut of the sheet I bought to do my floor. I don't need this second bit so its up for sale......Originally posted by SandRunner View PostOK. It's done....
Little bit of messing around but its all sorted. Here are some pics
The ply cut to shape..
[ATTACH=CONFIG]13364[/ATTACH]
Sealed and covered with marine carpet..
[ATTACH=CONFIG]13365[/ATTACH]
Bolted down to the rear of my car..
[ATTACH=CONFIG]13367[/ATTACH]
Tie downs on and used an old Toyota rubber mat for non slip under the fridge..
[ATTACH=CONFIG]13368[/ATTACH]
In the car (less the tie down straps but you get the idea)..
For Sale : Marine ply cut to shape to fit the rear of a 150 series GXL. Ready for you to carpet and bolt in to your car.
Price : $80.00
Location : Springfield, Qld
Contact : Drop me an email at [email protected]
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Look at my build. I showed a couple of shots. In short I built the wings out of mdf. Not too tricky just take your time.
Here
http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread...l=1#post397116
And finished off here
http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread...l=1#post398578Last edited by mjrandom; 19-03-2014, 09:52 AM.
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For those guys who have removed the seats to install the false floor, do you any tips on finishing of the sides or close up pictures of the end result?
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Another tip is to use bolts that have slightly raised edges on the outer edge of the bolt head. I didn't and the marks left were more of a scrape them a dent, as a result the holes ended up a fair bit off center. Will need to file them out now as the hole needs to be lengthened to fit.Originally posted by SuperDavid View Postwhen trying to line up the bolts for the holes I ended up putting the bolts into the bolt holes, and then putting the cut out ply onto the bolts and giving it a light hit aprox where the bolts were. Leaves an impression on the wood.
Also when drilling marine ply make sure you have a piece of scrap timber underneath or splintering will result.
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Some really good idea here fellas! Can't wait to get the new truck and get started on my false floor.
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yes, to the sides of the shelf its self. Those runners have heaps of holes in them, so you can put alot of screws in. I only have 4 in per side, I guess I could put more to be safe.
I used 18mm ply from bunnings I think it was 1200 X 900 so I only had to make one cut.
This inside part of the rail can detatch from the rest of the slide, take that out and self tap that onto the side of your fridge platform.

Then you can put those back into the rest of the slide with the platform attached, slide it out to full extension and all the holes in the outer part of the slide will line up so you can self tap that to your pieces of wood. I did this on the floor and put a book of the correct thickness under the fride platform to keep it all level.

Now that the slide is complete self tap the wood to the false floor with L brackets.

Some might say its a bit ghetto and cheap......BUT its rock solid and I'm proud to have done it myself......and saved $200Last edited by SuperDavid; 12-03-2014, 04:55 AM.
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How thick is the piece of timber you used for the slide? Do the runners attach to the bottom edge of it somehow or just on the sides of the shelf itself?
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