Fridge Mounting

[SuperDavid]

Money not so much an issue as time, I've seen your pics before and figured it can't be that hard.

Yeah its not hard, if I can do it anyone can! Money wasn't the issue for me..but I was on holidays so I had the time. that and I'm naturally stingy.

[fido666]

Make your own slide if money is an issue!
The rails are cheap to buy and easy to put together. Thats what I did. (I have no carpentry skills or experience)

Money not so much an issue as time, I've seen your pics before and figured it can't be that hard.

[SuperDavid]

I was thinking the same thing but wanted to get started so have already sealed the edges and one side of the board. I can always touch up the edges of the holes on the side I have already varnished, no biggie. I will do the other face once the holes are drilled.



No don't have one yet, was going to try borrowing one off a friend who has every tool known to man I think.



If only the bigger slide was that cheap! The one I need is around $330 on Ebay with postage included so not too much more.



Yes that's a rather nifty feature being able to bolt the slide to the fridge which you won't get using another brand of slide. Do you still use the tie down straps as well?

Make your own slide if money is an issue!
The rails are cheap to buy and easy to put together. Thats what I did. (I have no carpentry skills or experience)
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/1000mm-he...9f24905&_uhb=1

[fido666]

You could cut your current barrier down and weld a new bottom channel on to it? Says me who has no welding gear or skills (but can handle a soldering iron just fine) :-).

[ttmx83]

Spot on. Once I make a half barrier, I'll be able to fold the rear seat down to access from there.

Cheers Brad

[fido666]

Not using the straps, I wanted to but I can't get the back one on because of the cargo barrier!

I take it the fridge surround in your drawer setup is preventing you reaching the back of the slide with the fridge slid out?

[ttmx83]

Not using the straps, I wanted to but I can't get the back one on because of the cargo barrier! Decided the bolts will suffice.

Must make half barrier one day....

Cheers Brad

[fido666]

I cut the board, drilled holes, sealed the board then applied the carpet (and used a sharp screw driver to punch the holes through the carpet). IMHO it's more important to seal the cut edges and drilled holes than the faces of the board.

I was thinking the same thing but wanted to get started so have already sealed the edges and one side of the board. I can always touch up the edges of the holes on the side I have already varnished, no biggie. I will do the other face once the holes are drilled.

Not sure if you have acquired a good solid staple gun yet, but this will definitely be required to staple around the board to hold the carpet tight and in the correct place while the glue goes off.

No don't have one yet, was going to try borrowing one off a friend who has every tool known to man I think.

I also used the waeco slide, can't beat it for about $250 at bcf!

If only the bigger slide was that cheap! The one I need is around $330 on Ebay with postage included so not too much more.

Fido, the slide is good, the Fridge bolts to it from underneath and it operates smoothly and I'm glad I have it.

Yes that's a rather nifty feature being able to bolt the slide to the fridge which you won't get using another brand of slide. Do you still use the tie down straps as well?

[ttmx83]

Fido, the slide is good, the Fridge bolts to it from underneath and it operates smoothly and I'm glad I have it.

Cheers Brad.

[rwo]

I cut the board, drilled holes, sealed the board then applied the carpet (and used a sharp screw driver to punch the holes through the carpet). IMHO it's more important to seal the cut edges and drilled holes than the faces of the board.

Not sure if you have acquired a good solid staple gun yet, but this will definitely be required to staple around the board to hold the carpet tight and in the correct place while the glue goes off. I applied all staples to the underside so none are visible when the board is installed.

I also used the waeco slide, can't beat it for about $250 at bcf! I am fortunate that I have the old CF50, so it actually fits the smaller CFX40 slide and I can still fit my 60l ice box next to the fridge in the back

[fido666]

We picked up the marine ply from Masters in a 2440 x 1220 x 15mm sheet which they cut down for us for free. There's a lot left over, could probably make another floor from the offcut, unfortunately it doesn't come in sheets quite the right size. Advice from the timber guy there was to seal it before gluing the carpet to it so we have some marine sealant as well and some synthetic turf glue. Plan is to cut it to shape today and put a coat of sealant on one side but I'm wondering if we should drill the bolt holes before applying the sealant. I thought I should leave the purchasing of bolts till we knew the exact thickness it would all end up being, not so sure if that was a wise move now.

@Brad, Are you happy with the Waeco slide? It seems to be the most keenly priced one that will fit our CFX65 DZ.

[ttmx83]

I used formply to make my setup, with thinner marine ply for the drawer. The formply is bloody heavy! But I like that is has the layer on it making it resistant to water, which I also painted before covering. I used a combination of spray and in the can contact adhesive and staples where they wouldn't be seen. You need to use a LOT of the glue though and it is super messy! The smell was gone after a few days sitting in the shed whilst drying.

You can just see on the left side the section next to the fridge is hinged, it swings toward the fridge just enough to get to the jack and side compartments.

This is in a GX so I didn't need to take anything out of the car (seats or floor)




Cheers Brad

[mjrandom]

Up to you I didn't seat the structural ply. I don't think it will get wet enough to be a concern.

[fido666]

Thanks MJ and RWO, all useful suggestions. I would not have thought of using artificial grass glue on carpet.

If using marine ply can the sealing step can be left out or do you still need to do the cut edges?

[rwo]

When I built my floor, I read that structual ply uses the same glue as marine ply and is just as water resistant (when sealed), it's just marine ply has a higher grade (read: prettier) wood with less knots. As I was covering the ply with carpet, I wasn't worried about what the undressed wood looked like so went with the much cheaper CD structural ply.

As murphy would have it, one of my bolt holes ended up coming out through a knot on one side which threw the drill off course slightly. Not a major issue and I still managed to get the bolt through by elongating the hole a little on the back, but this wouldn't have happened if I used marine ply...

I sealed the buggery out of the board on all cut sides and both front and back with a Bondall timber sealer from Bunnings. My wife suggested using PVA mixed with water (apparently an old craft trick), which I thought was a silly idea until opening the tin of "special purpose" timber sealer from Bondall that looked, smelt and errr tasted, a lot like PVA mixed with water!

I used Dunlop Artifical Grass Glue also from bunnings (green and yellow tin available in the flooring section near the carpet and tile glues) after reading about it on a boating forum and that people used it with good results to make wooden floors for dingy's. I chose this over the standard carpet glue as it states "water proof in 48 hours" on the tin, whereas the plain Dunlop carpet glue did not. I covered all carpeted area's with glue (by applying to board with a serrated glue trowel, this was much easier than trying to put it on the carpet) and stapled the edges to hold it down whilst drying. No problems sticking the carpet to the sealed board with this glue, it held up very well and the carpet tore before the glue gave up on a test piece.

I also did the roundover bit over the edges and as MJR said, make sure you cut the board a few mm short to allow for the carpet.